Starter question - Crate motor to old bellhousing
#1
Starter question - Crate motor to old bellhousing
I finally got the crate motor installed in the 'vette. I used the old bellhousing and mounted it to the M20 I picked up. The crate motor is a 1pc rear main and uses a 153 tooth flywheel. I've tried several starters including the one that is supposed to come with the crate motor from GM. They won't fit. It seems they sit "low" and interfere with the bellhousing I'm using.
Do I need to change the bellhousing? Or is there a starter that will fit a 153 tooth flywheel and the early bellhousing?
Thanks for you help.
Eric
Do I need to change the bellhousing? Or is there a starter that will fit a 153 tooth flywheel and the early bellhousing?
Thanks for you help.
Eric
#2
Melting Slicks
You need the 168 tooth flywheel.
Sorry should have had more coffee, I saw EARLY bell housing and thought C1.
Sorry should have had more coffee, I saw EARLY bell housing and thought C1.
Last edited by narlee; 08-28-2011 at 02:14 PM.
#3
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What bellhousing are you using?
#4
I'm not sure which bellhousing it is. It's the one that was attached to the Pre '86 305 and the Saginaw slush box I pulled out.
Changing the flywheel isn't really an option at this point. I'm not against changing the bellhousing. But I'd much rather find a starter that will work.
Is there a starter that works with a 153T flywheel and an early bellhousing?
Thanks again,
Eric
Changing the flywheel isn't really an option at this point. I'm not against changing the bellhousing. But I'd much rather find a starter that will work.
Is there a starter that works with a 153T flywheel and an early bellhousing?
Thanks again,
Eric
#5
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Like John Z said, WHICH bell housing do you have? YES, it makes a difference. On the PASSENGER side of each housing, there SHOULD be a casting number. What is it?
Also, take a CLOSE look at the two bell housings below.
PARTICULARLY NOTICE the starter bulge on each one.
The PASSENGER side of the left housing has the starter bulge even with the side of the housing. This housing is used with a 153 teeth flywheel.
The housing on the right side has the starter bulge protruding from the side of the housing about 1inch. This housing is used with the 168 teeth flywheel.
Also, notice the bulge on the left housing is SLIGHTLY lower than the bulge on the right housing.
THEY AIN'T COMPATABLE!
Tom Parsons
Also, take a CLOSE look at the two bell housings below.
PARTICULARLY NOTICE the starter bulge on each one.
The PASSENGER side of the left housing has the starter bulge even with the side of the housing. This housing is used with a 153 teeth flywheel.
The housing on the right side has the starter bulge protruding from the side of the housing about 1inch. This housing is used with the 168 teeth flywheel.
Also, notice the bulge on the left housing is SLIGHTLY lower than the bulge on the right housing.
THEY AIN'T COMPATABLE!
Tom Parsons
Last edited by DZAUTO; 08-29-2011 at 08:50 AM.
#6
Le Mans Master
I'm not sure which bellhousing it is. It's the one that was attached to the Pre '86 305 and the Saginaw slush box I pulled out.
Changing the flywheel isn't really an option at this point. I'm not against changing the bellhousing. But I'd much rather find a starter that will work.
Is there a starter that works with a 153T flywheel and an early bellhousing?
Thanks again,
Eric
Changing the flywheel isn't really an option at this point. I'm not against changing the bellhousing. But I'd much rather find a starter that will work.
Is there a starter that works with a 153T flywheel and an early bellhousing?
Thanks again,
Eric
some one piece seal crate engines require a specific wheel externally balanced for that model
all the bolt patterns are the same, so just because it bolts up doesn't make it right and now is the time to do some homework.....good luck...
#7
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I'm not sure which bellhousing it is. It's the one that was attached to the Pre '86 305 and the Saginaw slush box I pulled out.
Changing the flywheel isn't really an option at this point. I'm not against changing the bellhousing. But I'd much rather find a starter that will work.
Is there a starter that works with a 153T flywheel and an early bellhousing?
Thanks again,
Eric
Changing the flywheel isn't really an option at this point. I'm not against changing the bellhousing. But I'd much rather find a starter that will work.
Is there a starter that works with a 153T flywheel and an early bellhousing?
Thanks again,
Eric
#8
I apologize for my lack of help. Here's a pic of where the starter bulge is as it sits today.
I looked for the casting numbers on both side as best I could. But it's in the car so visibility is limited. If you have a trick to seeing the numbers while its in the car. I'd be happy to try it.
Thanks again,
Eric
I looked for the casting numbers on both side as best I could. But it's in the car so visibility is limited. If you have a trick to seeing the numbers while its in the car. I'd be happy to try it.
Thanks again,
Eric
#9
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You are using a bell housing that normally uses a starter that bolts to the bell housing (using 3 bolts). That requires a 168 tooth flywheel (or the use of a cast iron nose stagger bolt block mounted starter that uses 2 vertical bolts).
Your options are to either replace the flywheel or the bell housing. If changing the bell housing, then a block mounted starter with the straight across bolt pattern (for the 153 tooth flywheel) is required.
If you decide to use a block mounted starter, make sure you use the correct knurled mounting bolts, and I also recommend a front mount support bracket.
If you decide to change the flywheel, you must get one with the correct balance and bolt pattern for your clutch pressure plate.
Plasticman
Your options are to either replace the flywheel or the bell housing. If changing the bell housing, then a block mounted starter with the straight across bolt pattern (for the 153 tooth flywheel) is required.
If you decide to use a block mounted starter, make sure you use the correct knurled mounting bolts, and I also recommend a front mount support bracket.
If you decide to change the flywheel, you must get one with the correct balance and bolt pattern for your clutch pressure plate.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 08-29-2011 at 01:42 PM.
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You are using a bell housing that normally uses a starter that bolts to the bell housing (using 3 bolts). That requires a 168 tooth flywheel (or the use of a cast iron nose stagger bolt block mounted starter that uses 2 vertical bolts).
Your options are to either replace the flywheel or the bell housing. If changing the bell housing, then a block mounted starter with the straight across bolt pattern (for the 153 tooth flywheel) is required.
If you decide to use a block mounted starter, make sure you use the correct knurled mounting bolts, and I also recommend a front mount support bracket.
If you decide to change the flywheel, you must get one with the correct balance and bolt pattern for your clutch pressure plate.
Plasticman
Your options are to either replace the flywheel or the bell housing. If changing the bell housing, then a block mounted starter with the straight across bolt pattern (for the 153 tooth flywheel) is required.
If you decide to use a block mounted starter, make sure you use the correct knurled mounting bolts, and I also recommend a front mount support bracket.
If you decide to change the flywheel, you must get one with the correct balance and bolt pattern for your clutch pressure plate.
Plasticman
That is EXACTLY correct!!!
Basically, what was explained above is/are your ONLY options.
There is a 168 teeth flywheel available for a 86-later one piece rear main seal type block.
It's your car, so you have to make the call. BUUUUUUUUUUT, if were my car, I'd switch to a 168 teeth flywheel so that an 11in clutch could be used.
By the way, that bell housing you have is the 55-62 style with an open bottom (my FAVORITE) which was last used on 62 Vettes (although, the 60-62 open bottom housings were alum). In 63, Vettes went to the full enclosure style housings like those in my earlier picture.
Tom Parsons
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#13
Le Mans Master
#17