lildrip049

I have a 4 speed manual 327/300 hp 64 vet converitable. I am experiencing an elextrical problem. Nothing electrically works on the car except the horn with the key on the off/acc/ or on position. The horn is directly connected to the battery power pole on the solenoid. When I touch the positive battery pole of the solenoid with a screw driver to the pole on the solenoid closest to the fender i get my clock to work. I used an idiot light to determine that I have power from the battery, but no power from the solenoid to the ignition switch ot from the solenoid to the coil. I change the starter solenoid and continue to have no electric. I checked the 2 grounds to the front frame and the ground wire from the carburetor linkage to the manifold and theyb are connected and tight. My next steps are to trace from the ignition switch to the solenoid and coil. There appears to be an ignition resister and an ignition ballast resister, but I cannot locate thesae 2 parts in my wiring diagrams. My questions are:
1. How would you trace my the electrical p[roblem that I am experiencing.
2. Can you identify to me where the ignition resister and ignition ballast are located.
3. My books tell me that there is an ignition switch tool J7607 that i need to replace the ignition switch....do I need to get this tool in order to replace the ignition switch.

Appreciate any guidance that you can give me in solving my problem

Russ
lildrip049@aol.com

tentuna

Did you check the firewall connectors, if they are corroded or loose you will not have any power to the into the interior harness

lildrip049

it appears that there are 2 firewall connectors under the front windshield that are new tight.....any other sugestions?
thx,
Russ

MasterDave

Inside the firewall connector boxes are a number of wimpy little blade connections that give some of us fits. It's usually the big red wire that is the issue. Try putting some pressure on the wire at the connector (wiggle) and see if things light up. Prior to me replacing the wiring harness' I simply hard wired the big red wire and it worked fine for years.

toddalin

Ballast resistor is mounted to the firewall as shown. It is the white rectangle above the master cylinder on the right side of the picture.:

lildrip049

the wire harness is a few yeaqrs old....there is a purple wire coming from the solenoid to the ignition swithch; another purple with a black or brown line going to the coil (this configuration agrees with the colored wired diagram that i have). The 2 firewall connections that i see on the rear firewall are open where they look like transistors and then there is the plug going into the fuse box.....can you please be more specific where the firewall connector boxes are that you mention with the wimpy little blade connections...soory to be confused, but I am not an expewrt on electrical problems by no means and confused on how to trace this problem..thx for your patience
russ

lildrip049

Thx for the picture---i have the ballast resistor in the same location; is the second resiter on the firewall the ignition resister? Thx for your assistance
russ
nice engine compartment, and engine

toddalin

I know of no other "ignition resistor" other than the ballast resistor. Perhaps you are thinking of a "fusable link," but I don't have that either.

JohnZ

First photo below shows the two multiple connectors that plug onto the engine side of the fuse block - the outboard connector is for the headlight circuits in the forward lamp harness, and the inboard connector is for the engine/starter harness and power connections.

The second photo shows the engine harness connector, with the typical "big red wire" problem - that's the 12-ga. red wire main power feed to the inside of the car; high resistance between the two mating terminals causes heat, which melts the cavity in the connector and you get an open circuit there (no power inside the car).

The third photo shows the location of the ignition ballast resistor on the firewall (the ONLY resistor you have) - the bottom wire comes from the ignition switch "on" terminal, and the top wire goes to the coil (+) terminal.

lildrip049

Thx so much for the pictures and ytour insight....will work on the car this weekend and advise you of my progress---thx again

Russ
lildrip049@aol.com

lildrip049

John Z thx for the advice...my problem was in the firewall connector---russ

MasterDave

Yup, typical issue. Glad you got it.

jaybird92547

how to replace Ignition switch 1964 corvette the whole unit do I have to remove the dash to replace it

jprop

You do not have to remove the cluster.

dkleather

To remove the ignition switch you :
1. Disconnect the battery neg. cable
2. Remove the lock cylinder by putting the switch in lock position with the key and inserting a wire (I use a small paper clip) into the hole in the cylinder face. Push in on the wire to depress the plunger and turn the key counterclockwise until the lock cylinder can be removed.
3. Use tool J-7607 to remove the bright metal ignition switch nut that is around the lock cylinder. (I use a pair of pliers with thin rubber or leather padding between the jaws of the pliers and the chrome nut to prevent scarring it which has worked fine for me with no damage. You may want the tool. Others may have used other alternatives to the tool as well.)
4. Pull the ignition switch out from under the dash and remove the wiring connectors and lamp socket and bulb.
5. Remove the "theft resistant" connector using a screwdriver to unsnap the two locking tongs on the connector from their position on the switch and pull it off.
Dave

Note to Jaybird: Suggestion: Best to start a new thread with your question rather than resurrect one that is over two years old.

Mmorningstar7wn

do you think these plugs are a GM standard 8 pin female connection? Trouble sourcing them

Railroadman

See the suggestion in red on the thread just above yours. Start a new thread, that way people will focus on your specific problem instead of working through something from 9 years ago. I guarantee someone will be able to help you!