Stripped out door sill screws
#22
Le Mans Master
Yes. They are called Jackson head. I think McMaster Karr has them but I know for sure that Totally Stainless has them and they will never rust.
www.totallystainless.com
Page 132 in the catalog.
www.totallystainless.com
Page 132 in the catalog.
go to a bigger thread, and pretty soon you are in lag bolt territory!
#23
Tech Contributor
#25
Melting Slicks
Another cheap fix is a half inch of electrical wiring with the insulation on,bent in a L shape and taped the top part to the sill. It will also work on the holes that are stripped out for interior panels.
#27
Le Mans Master
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and the shaft is larger.
Now you need to spend some time in an old junkyard.
People who don't ever go to junk yards are missing out on a good part of life.
- Ed (Big Daddy) Roth
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Nickrnic (08-19-2022)
#28
Cruising
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stripped screws
I just fixed all my door panel screw holes, by cutting 1.5 in x.5 in pieces of sheet metal and drilling 1/8 in holes in each end and then pop riveting them over the screw holes . re installing door panel and drill small holes for the sheet metal screws
#29
Team Owner
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Corvette Central has exactly the same thing (20 pre-cut and pre-drilled reinforcements, including the pop-rivets), ready to install, #131125 Mount Hole Repair Kit. I used lots of them when I restored my 57's.
#30
Drifting
If you have the resources and the time, drill out the hole slightly larger, and then use a jigsaw and cut up some old used bonding strips or an old section of fiberglass panel you may have laying around, or cut up some fiberglass mat with scissors. Collect the powdered glass, (quarter of a tea spoon will do) mix it with two part resin fill in holes using a tooth pick. After set, drill the proper size hole, looks original, and professional, without any embarrassments. Best of all it lasts a very long time.
rustylugnuts
rustylugnuts
Last edited by rustylugnuts; 09-13-2011 at 05:27 PM.
#31
Instructor
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I'm a Tin Smith by trade so this is the way I went (except I used Stainless Steel). Now it’s fixed the first time, forever & the correct screw can be re-installed afterwards.
#34
Intermediate
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Plastic Anchors
Bought some plastic anchors, cut them a little short, forced one in the sun visor hole, ran the phillips head screw in and it worked great and held very well. The floppy visor problem was corrected by gradually tightening vice grips on the outer edge of the rounded flat screw where the visor eyelet entered the visor. I was concerned about the vice grips(even when covered with a towel) tearing the visor so I opted to gradually apply pressure to the screw in a manner that crimped the metal channel in the visor. I just crimped it just enough to tighten the contact with the eyelet arm. Also, I tried to wrap duct tape around the eyelet arm to tighten the fit but that did not work well, but the residual glue from the duct tape on the eyelet arm seemed to add tackiness / resistance to the visor which I thought helped some. Just thought I'd follow up. Again , thanks for your suggestions.
#35
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I use JB Weld. Easy to mix in small quantities with no waste, since its thick it pretty much stays were you put it (unlike resin), and it sets up fast. I don't fill the hole in just put some around the edges with a toothpick and leave a smaller hole in the center to start the screw in.