Paint failure caused by Oil contaminated fiberglass
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Paint failure caused by Oil contaminated fiberglass
I posted this also in the Paint section but I am seeking a proven method to repair this issue.
I have a 66 convertible. It had its original paint up to 2009 when we did a frame off restoration. The body was excellent with all original panels, it was a no hit body. The original paint was sanded off. There was a section on the top drivers side fender just in front of the firewall that showed evidence of oil in the fiberglass from below the panel. The painter heated the panel and used lacquer thinner to draw out the oil. He used an epoxy 2k primer and used a base clear PPG paint process. After about two months, tiny paint bubbles appeared on the surface.
Does anyone know of a proven way to fix this problem short of replacing the upper fender panel?
I have a 66 convertible. It had its original paint up to 2009 when we did a frame off restoration. The body was excellent with all original panels, it was a no hit body. The original paint was sanded off. There was a section on the top drivers side fender just in front of the firewall that showed evidence of oil in the fiberglass from below the panel. The painter heated the panel and used lacquer thinner to draw out the oil. He used an epoxy 2k primer and used a base clear PPG paint process. After about two months, tiny paint bubbles appeared on the surface.
Does anyone know of a proven way to fix this problem short of replacing the upper fender panel?
#2
Melting Slicks
We had a similar problem on our 66 before we painted it. I believe a brake line blew at some point while the car was in storage (before we bought it). Our painter put a heat light on it for a long time (maybe a week or so) and kept cleaning the area with acetone. After his process was complete he continued with painting it. Years after the car was painted, no problems.
-Dave
-Dave
#3
Le Mans Master
Dave's results are better than most.
I have heard some horror stories on this subject. Like multiple paint jobs then finally replacing the panel.
Theres an 80% chance it will come back. How many times are you willing to paint the car? Or just bite the bullet and replace the panel? Tough decision.
Mine was painted before I bought it. I can count maybe 4 pin sized bubbles spread out over one fender. In the 2 1/2 yrs I have owned it. Out in the sun, 40 degree shop in winter. No change no new bubbles.
I am leaving them alone.
I have heard some horror stories on this subject. Like multiple paint jobs then finally replacing the panel.
Theres an 80% chance it will come back. How many times are you willing to paint the car? Or just bite the bullet and replace the panel? Tough decision.
Mine was painted before I bought it. I can count maybe 4 pin sized bubbles spread out over one fender. In the 2 1/2 yrs I have owned it. Out in the sun, 40 degree shop in winter. No change no new bubbles.
I am leaving them alone.
Last edited by MiguelsC2; 10-06-2011 at 02:29 AM.
#5
Safety Car
I've had good success with the heat/acetone method along with grinding the area "very thin", and laying up 2 or three layers of mat. By doing this, you have less chance of repair shrinkage showing up (via a cutout and panel replacement), and you grind most of the contaminated glass away. It's a little more "surgical", but I've never had one come back. You should also use "isothalic" polyester resin for the repair. It is mold-makers resin, and is very high quality, with much less shrink. Also, if the underside of where the bubbles are has been painted, strip the paint, and do the heat acetone/lacquer thinner thing on the bottom side also. Use an EPOXY primer surfacer, like PPG D822. Good luck.
Mike Coletta
Mike Coletta
#8
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Alhambra CA
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I have the same problem in the same place.. Drivers side top of fender..
Original paint.. No evidence of oil or anything on bottom of fender.. Can only assume this was caused by brake fluid at some point in its life
On a hot day I can actually see it run out on the paint surface like it is still wet... I've tried everything I could think of to dry it out... No luck
Go figure
Original paint.. No evidence of oil or anything on bottom of fender.. Can only assume this was caused by brake fluid at some point in its life
On a hot day I can actually see it run out on the paint surface like it is still wet... I've tried everything I could think of to dry it out... No luck
Go figure
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
I spoke to my car's former owner who owned it for 40 years prior to me. He told me that the master cylinder would weep brake fluid. He rebuilt the original master cylinder 3 times in his 40 years of ownership. He switched to silicon brake fluid and Stainless sleeved calipers in the 80's and did not have any further issues. My fender was contaminated by DOT 3 brake fluid in the 60's and 70's.
#10
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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Shemp what company did you get your top surround from
#11
Le Mans Master
I've had good success with the heat/acetone method along with grinding the area "very thin", and laying up 2 or three layers of mat. By doing this, you have less chance of repair shrinkage showing up (via a cutout and panel replacement), and you grind most of the contaminated glass away. It's a little more "surgical", but I've never had one come back. You should also use "isothalic" polyester resin for the repair. It is mold-makers resin, and is very high quality, with much less shrink. Also, if the underside of where the bubbles are has been painted, strip the paint, and do the heat acetone/lacquer thinner thing on the bottom side also. Use an EPOXY primer surfacer, like PPG D822. Good luck.
Mike Coletta
Mike Coletta