Windshield washer conversion.
10-09-2011, 10:09 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Windshield washer conversion.
I know you all have been waiting for this but after years of research, thousands in R & D and hundreds of failed proto types, I have finally been able to coordinate my wiper blades with my washer on my 59.
As some of you are aware, I previously had converted my WW pump to electric. I wired a very small switch behind the wiper button, so that when the button was pushed, the spritzer would spray the windshield. That always worked but I couldn't figure out how to get the wipers to also go on and then go to "park".
I was originally going to rewire the wiper motor itself, and Plasticman (John) went out of his way to build me a 6 second timer delay circuit which I was going to use as a sort of "switch" to turn on/off the motor. I bought a junk wiper motor and started playing with it. However, I soon realized that the electrical and mechanical mechanisms are after the motor and not before, so when I used the 6 second circuit the motor would operate but would not go into "park", the blades stopped in mid swipe. So that wouldn't work.
Ok, now what? I figured since these motors are also mechanical and I had the wiper actuator all ready attached, how can I use it? Weeks went by and I bought door actuators, carb actuators, head light actuators, etc. Nothing would work. Then it dawned on me, cruise control actuators work with vacuum. Went on Ebay and there were 1998 Jaguar cruise control actuators for sale. They were relatively small, 12 V and opened/closed the vacuum source. So what I did was splice the vacuum side of the cruise control actuator in the line between the carb and the WW actuator (Tom Maxwell did a nice job rebuilding it). Wired the cruise control actuator through John's black box and then into the push button switch. So now when you push the little button, the washers squirt and the wiper wipes for 6 seconds and goes to "Park". I'm still tinkering with the whole set up. I think 6 seconds is too long will probably cut down to 4 or 3.
Some of my goals were met and some were not. The dash looks stock and the little button makes everything work. Under the dash is a small black box. Not bad but noticeable if you stick your head under there. The washer tank/reservoir looks stock. The lines look like they go where they are supposed to. There's the cruise control actuator mounted on the manifold under the shielding. It came with a mount and fit perfectly there. Some time in the future, I may try hiding it under the dash, the most logical place would be to attach it to the black box some how.
I know I could have had Tom Maxwell rebuild my old system for what, $400 but it wouldn't have been so much fun and satisfying.
As some of you are aware, I previously had converted my WW pump to electric. I wired a very small switch behind the wiper button, so that when the button was pushed, the spritzer would spray the windshield. That always worked but I couldn't figure out how to get the wipers to also go on and then go to "park".
I was originally going to rewire the wiper motor itself, and Plasticman (John) went out of his way to build me a 6 second timer delay circuit which I was going to use as a sort of "switch" to turn on/off the motor. I bought a junk wiper motor and started playing with it. However, I soon realized that the electrical and mechanical mechanisms are after the motor and not before, so when I used the 6 second circuit the motor would operate but would not go into "park", the blades stopped in mid swipe. So that wouldn't work.
Ok, now what? I figured since these motors are also mechanical and I had the wiper actuator all ready attached, how can I use it? Weeks went by and I bought door actuators, carb actuators, head light actuators, etc. Nothing would work. Then it dawned on me, cruise control actuators work with vacuum. Went on Ebay and there were 1998 Jaguar cruise control actuators for sale. They were relatively small, 12 V and opened/closed the vacuum source. So what I did was splice the vacuum side of the cruise control actuator in the line between the carb and the WW actuator (Tom Maxwell did a nice job rebuilding it). Wired the cruise control actuator through John's black box and then into the push button switch. So now when you push the little button, the washers squirt and the wiper wipes for 6 seconds and goes to "Park". I'm still tinkering with the whole set up. I think 6 seconds is too long will probably cut down to 4 or 3.
Some of my goals were met and some were not. The dash looks stock and the little button makes everything work. Under the dash is a small black box. Not bad but noticeable if you stick your head under there. The washer tank/reservoir looks stock. The lines look like they go where they are supposed to. There's the cruise control actuator mounted on the manifold under the shielding. It came with a mount and fit perfectly there. Some time in the future, I may try hiding it under the dash, the most logical place would be to attach it to the black box some how.
I know I could have had Tom Maxwell rebuild my old system for what, $400 but it wouldn't have been so much fun and satisfying.
Last edited by Steve59; 10-09-2011 at 10:12 AM.
10-09-2011, 11:12 AM
#2
Team Owner
Steve - my hat is off to you. I had toyed with a similar approach but never got enough gumption up to do anything beyond a concept. I think I finally decided the pain of getting the original stuff working wasn't as bad as developing something new....
You need to team with one of the repro electric wiper vendors and make a complete kit.
You need to team with one of the repro electric wiper vendors and make a complete kit.
10-09-2011, 11:55 AM
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Beverly Hills (Pine Ridge) Florida
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Steve,
Congrats!
If you need the timing changed, you can send the timer back to me, or try to do it yourself (your option).
Going to a 100 ufd capacitor (from the 180 ufd that is in there now) should bring it close to a 3-4 second time period. Anything 16 WVDC or higher will work fine. Just make sure the polarity of the capacitor (electrolytic) is correct.
If you wanted to get fancy, we could put a trimmer pot (variable resistor) on there for some adjustment of the timer length.
I have also been "busy". Just finished making a sequential turn signal (for the rear lights) circuit for the 62. Only will work with LED lights, since they have a faster turn on time. Works by turning on the inner rear lamp, then a moment later the outer lamp turns on (while the inner is still on). Gives the impression of pointing towards the direction of turn using only 2 lamps.
I tried it last weekend, but it required an additional mod. Think it is now "fixed", but it is raining out, so missed another opportunity to "display" it at another show.
John (plasticman)
Congrats!
If you need the timing changed, you can send the timer back to me, or try to do it yourself (your option).
Going to a 100 ufd capacitor (from the 180 ufd that is in there now) should bring it close to a 3-4 second time period. Anything 16 WVDC or higher will work fine. Just make sure the polarity of the capacitor (electrolytic) is correct.
If you wanted to get fancy, we could put a trimmer pot (variable resistor) on there for some adjustment of the timer length.
I have also been "busy". Just finished making a sequential turn signal (for the rear lights) circuit for the 62. Only will work with LED lights, since they have a faster turn on time. Works by turning on the inner rear lamp, then a moment later the outer lamp turns on (while the inner is still on). Gives the impression of pointing towards the direction of turn using only 2 lamps.
I tried it last weekend, but it required an additional mod. Think it is now "fixed", but it is raining out, so missed another opportunity to "display" it at another show.
John (plasticman)
Last edited by Plasticman; 10-09-2011 at 12:07 PM.
10-09-2011, 02:58 PM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
John, thanks for the info. I'll try replacing that capacitor my self. Shouldn't be to hard, hopefully. The problem is getting the box out now that it's in. Going to sit on it for while, so may end up redoing it later this year or if it gets cold early, possibly into next year.
Frank: Once I got things together, it wasn't as hard as i thought. Just wasted a lot of time and money on parts/ideas that didn't pan out. Truthfully, I wouldn't do it again. If Tom Maxwell repairs them, (he did a good job on my coordinator) and you said he did yours and it works well, I'd probably go that route. What I don't know is how well my system is going to hold up over time and car vibrations.
Frank: Once I got things together, it wasn't as hard as i thought. Just wasted a lot of time and money on parts/ideas that didn't pan out. Truthfully, I wouldn't do it again. If Tom Maxwell repairs them, (he did a good job on my coordinator) and you said he did yours and it works well, I'd probably go that route. What I don't know is how well my system is going to hold up over time and car vibrations.
