Douglas R. Brown

I have 62 with a 327 that has been setting for 15+ years and am attempting to get her on the road again. The cooling system has set for all that time. Pulled the radiator and it is junk, and the water pump is frozen up.

I don't want to put the replacement radiator or water pump on with out flushing the sludge out of the block.

Any suggestion on how to flush the block of a non running engine?

Redbird

If you don't want to pull the motor, disassemble, and hot tank, you can pull the side drain plugs (one on each side, toward the center of the block and just above the oil pan line. Run the hose in through the water pump holes and flush until clear. You can also shove a small wire (hangar) up the drain hole to loosen up gunk. I would then back flush it with the hose through these drain holes and then back the other way again. That should get the majority out.

John F

Douglas R. Brown

John,
I will give this a try.

Afterward, once I get the new water pump and radiator in, I will try some of the chemical flushes.

Thanks
Doug

Kerrmudgeon

If it was sitting with an antifreeze mix, why are you worried about it? Antifreeze is antirust. I would get it running first, and wait to see if any problems come up. I've started up motors that have sat longer than that with no trouble at all. What does the coolant look like?

Douglas R. Brown

Coolant what coolant? I don't know happen to it.

I assumed it had coolant 15+ years ago when it was garaged because of carb problems.

I just removed the radiator and it was dry, but weighted about 60 pounds and was completely rusted out. The water pump is frozen up. The lower radiator hose had junks of rusted matter.

Thus, I am guessing this same rusted sludge will be in the lower portions of the block.

this is just a short term solution for the car. It has a planned complete restoration in the near future.

Kerrmudgeon

Well, now we have the full story, I'd be surprised of the block isn't cracked from being put to bed with only water in it. Are you in a frost area, didn't check your location. Did any liquid come out from the drain plugs on the sides of the block?

Douglas R. Brown

I haven't opened up the drain plugs as of yet.

Fortunately we are in Arizona, so freezing is not an issue.

Kerrmudgeon

If you filled out your personal data and location, we wouldn't be out in the cold to answer your questions!

chris ritchie

When you go to unscrew those 2 block drain plugs, make sure you use a 6 point socket. They can be a bear to get loose. If you round them off, you'll never get them out. You have one chance. Make the most of it. There's lots of crud down there.

Douglas R. Brown

Chris,
Thanks for the advise. I will take care when taking them out.
Thanks
Doug

Westlotorn

With that kind of sludge I would consider pulling the freeze plugs and really flushing the block. Pull the exhaust manifolds and you will have easy access to get the freeze plugs removed. Look at them closely for rust. I hope they are brass and you have no rust issues with the plugs. Old Antifreeze may not rust but it turns to acid and eats things.
It really likes aluminum. I still have an L79 that I have yet to open up and check for similar damage. It has 34 years of sitting with the closed radiator. Winter project this year I hope. Let us know how it looks.

John S 1961

Hi there, I live in scottsdale, If the radiator will hold water, then put on your new pump, run the engine (sans thermostat), add a little non foaming surfactant (Tide) get it nice and hot, pull the upper hose and pump out the water while adding water to the radiator. You will have then flushed the entire system (except for the heater). Rinse and Repeat. I frequently flush by pulling the upper hose and sending it off into the rocks till it runs clear. Then install your new radiator and good coolant

Westlotorn

Good idea but use the old pump for the flush, the seals in pumps can be damaged by grit in the fluid. Get the grit out before adding your new pump.

mike16

does it turn over?

fill it with water and check to see if the head gaskets have failed. unlikely but possible.

If the old pump is seized up put a new pump on it.

fill it with water and flush it out

fill it with water and dranno and run it up untill it gets fully warmed up for about a half hour.

then drain and flush the block

add more water and that CLR Calcium. Lime and rust remover stuff that comes in the silver jug. Run the engine up to temperture for about a half hour then drain and flush it again.

then replace your radiator, waterpump and all the hoses.

watch the freez plugs for leaks

vt65

also Doug try to determine if the water pump is original to the car, they can be rebuilt...