542” Tri-Power motor, cast iron exh.manifolds – 671.05 rwhp through mufflers!
11-24-2011, 12:35 PM
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
11-24-2011, 12:41 PM
#23
Drifting
Thread Starter
Wow, great numbers. It has been a long time since we have talked and have not seen your posts on the c1 forum. I am looking forward to you setting some new records at F.A.S.T. racing.
BTW, if you are going to use the TKO-600 trans as in the linked post, it will cost you big time in ET. I dumped mine after 3 years of racing, and that included mastering the 2-3 high speed/fast shift. I picked up .3 seconds with a M-22W.
Jim
BTW, if you are going to use the TKO-600 trans as in the linked post, it will cost you big time in ET. I dumped mine after 3 years of racing, and that included mastering the 2-3 high speed/fast shift. I picked up .3 seconds with a M-22W.
JimRacing the car is going to be a major problem due to the fact that I don't have a roll bar/cage. The two tracks we have out here are real sticklers on enforcing the rules so I will only be able to get one full blast and then they will boot me out. It will be all but impossible to get the car dialed in when you can only get one full run. That's why "Dyno Racing" is so much fun to me!
Steve
11-24-2011, 12:47 PM
#26
Race Director
11-24-2011, 12:48 PM
#27
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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Love the disguise job 
.
.
11-24-2011, 01:34 PM
#29
Drifting
Thread Starter
I was wondering when someone was going to ask me about these.
I knew that the stock carburetors weren't going to be enough. The stock end carbs are #3659 and have a 1.75" base plate throttle bore, a 1.375" venturi, a straight leg booster, and a 466 cfm rating. I found that the Chrysler #4365-1 carbs have a 1.75" base plate throttle bore, a 1.57" venturi, a dog leg booster, and a 500 cfm rating. The Chrysler carbs also have a milled down air horn and idle mixture adjustment screws in the baseplate. So I picked up a pair of the 4365-1 carburetors. I modified them by replacing the thick aluminum throttle blades with the thinner steel throttle blades.
I decided to start my testing with the factory #3660 center carb. It has a 1.50" base plate throttle bore, a 1.1875" venturi, a dog leg booster, and a 350 cfm rating.
After a number of dyno runs I felt that I needed even more cfm. I purchased a #4412 500 cfm 2-barrel and machined it on my mill to fit. There is quite a bit of milling that has to be done to make this fit. I also milled down the air horn and machined a pickup point in the venturi for the vacuum signal that activates the end carbs. While it has a 500 cfm rating the base plate throttle bore is 1.6875 and the venturi is 1.375. Definitely larger than the #3660 350 cfm carb but not as large as the #4365-1 500 cfm carbs.
After a few more dyno runs I decided to install button head throttle plate screws on all three carbs and slabbed the throttle shaft on the end carbs.
Finally I enlarged the transition slot on the end carbs to remove most of the lean spot that occurs when they are activated.
Of course I had a number of jet and air bleed changes along the way but I am happy with where everything is at right now. Every time I have done something to increase the cfm of this combination, the horsepower has gone up.
Steve
I knew that the stock carburetors weren't going to be enough. The stock end carbs are #3659 and have a 1.75" base plate throttle bore, a 1.375" venturi, a straight leg booster, and a 466 cfm rating. I found that the Chrysler #4365-1 carbs have a 1.75" base plate throttle bore, a 1.57" venturi, a dog leg booster, and a 500 cfm rating. The Chrysler carbs also have a milled down air horn and idle mixture adjustment screws in the baseplate. So I picked up a pair of the 4365-1 carburetors. I modified them by replacing the thick aluminum throttle blades with the thinner steel throttle blades.
I decided to start my testing with the factory #3660 center carb. It has a 1.50" base plate throttle bore, a 1.1875" venturi, a dog leg booster, and a 350 cfm rating.
After a number of dyno runs I felt that I needed even more cfm. I purchased a #4412 500 cfm 2-barrel and machined it on my mill to fit. There is quite a bit of milling that has to be done to make this fit. I also milled down the air horn and machined a pickup point in the venturi for the vacuum signal that activates the end carbs. While it has a 500 cfm rating the base plate throttle bore is 1.6875 and the venturi is 1.375. Definitely larger than the #3660 350 cfm carb but not as large as the #4365-1 500 cfm carbs.
After a few more dyno runs I decided to install button head throttle plate screws on all three carbs and slabbed the throttle shaft on the end carbs.
Finally I enlarged the transition slot on the end carbs to remove most of the lean spot that occurs when they are activated.
Of course I had a number of jet and air bleed changes along the way but I am happy with where everything is at right now. Every time I have done something to increase the cfm of this combination, the horsepower has gone up.
Steve
11-24-2011, 01:39 PM
#30
Drifting
Thread Starter
Congratulations, your hard work has paid off! 1.416 HP/cu-in is stout indeed. I don't know that the cast manifolds are hurting you, especially if you had them extrude honed by Brzizinski. The tri-power setup is killing you. Ever thought about "cloning" the L72 instead?
The very large intake ports hurt the bottom/midrange torque.........and it shows. Good for peak power number and pushes the peak RPM further up by a few hundred.
Now, if you can only "disguise" mechanical front/rear carbs, you'd lose that big dip around 3150.
The very large intake ports hurt the bottom/midrange torque.........and it shows. Good for peak power number and pushes the peak RPM further up by a few hundred.
Now, if you can only "disguise" mechanical front/rear carbs, you'd lose that big dip around 3150.
The tri-power is the only way I will go on this deal. That is what was stock in 1967 and I love the system.
I have responded to another post with details about the carb modifications. I appreciate your interest.
Steve
11-24-2011, 01:54 PM
#31
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Donny Brass
how about just a F70-15 bias ply ???
you can get a 1.5 sixty foot time out of them
you can get a 1.5 sixty foot time out of them
Originally Posted by Donny Brass
just go 1/8th mile until you are ready to uncork one and go home
Thanks for the comments Donny.
Steve
11-24-2011, 11:11 PM
#33
Drifting
Actually, I am not a F.A.S.T. racer - but I would like to be!
Racing the car is going to be a major problem due to the fact that I don't have a roll bar/cage. The two tracks we have out here are real sticklers on enforcing the rules so I will only be able to get one full blast and then they will boot me out. It will be all but impossible to get the car dialed in when you can only get one full run. That's why "Dyno Racing" is so much fun to me!
Steve
Racing the car is going to be a major problem due to the fact that I don't have a roll bar/cage. The two tracks we have out here are real sticklers on enforcing the rules so I will only be able to get one full blast and then they will boot me out. It will be all but impossible to get the car dialed in when you can only get one full run. That's why "Dyno Racing" is so much fun to me!
Steve
I am seriously considering doing a bar. It should be good for 10.00.
It sucks, not being to able to do every run the fastest that you can. Jim
11-25-2011, 01:22 AM
#34
I have not had the exhaust manifolds extrude honed. Just old-fashioned hand porting.
The tri-power is the only way I will go on this deal. That is what was stock in 1967 and I love the system.
I have responded to another post with details about the carb modifications. I appreciate your interest.
Steve
The tri-power is the only way I will go on this deal. That is what was stock in 1967 and I love the system.
I have responded to another post with details about the carb modifications. I appreciate your interest.
Steve
I am also running the 4412 with great results - I had to replace the middle card because of the huge cam I'm running for proper idling and operation.
Do you have any pics of how and where you performed the venturi mod to support the ported vacuum to the secondary carbs - as the 4412 does not provide that vacuum source.
Nice Job Bro!
11-25-2011, 09:37 AM
#35
Safety Car
11-25-2011, 01:27 PM
#36
Drifting
Thread Starter
The 11.50 rule is a problem. Me and most of the faster guys in our North Jersey Outlaws racing organization are running quicker than the 11.50.
I am seriously considering doing a bar. It should be good for 10.00.
It sucks, not being to able to do every run the fastest that you can. Jim
I am seriously considering doing a bar. It should be good for 10.00.
It sucks, not being to able to do every run the fastest that you can. Jim
Originally Posted by babbah
Hi Steve - Can you lead me to the post regarding the middle tri power carb mods?
I am also running the 4412 with great results - I had to replace the middle card because of the huge cam I'm running for proper idling and operation.
Do you have any pics of how and where you performed the venturi mod to support the ported vacuum to the secondary carbs - as the 4412 does not provide that vacuum source.
Nice Job Bro!
I am also running the 4412 with great results - I had to replace the middle card because of the huge cam I'm running for proper idling and operation.
Do you have any pics of how and where you performed the venturi mod to support the ported vacuum to the secondary carbs - as the 4412 does not provide that vacuum source.
Nice Job Bro!
Steve
11-26-2011, 12:14 PM
#37
Melting Slicks
Awesome work as usual Steve! Your meticulous attention to details has paid off again! I just can't believe those power numbers through stock exhaust manifolds 
Guys, I have heard this car on the dyno and at idle it sounds as stock as they come for a factory solid lifter motor
I would never have believed that this amount of power could be had with such a small cam and stock-like exhaust.
Guys, I have heard this car on the dyno and at idle it sounds as stock as they come for a factory solid lifter motor
I would never have believed that this amount of power could be had with such a small cam and stock-like exhaust.
11-26-2011, 05:53 PM
#38
Are those iron heads? Does it have a solid roller? Great power from the good ole big block chevy! That'll put a scare into a hemi Roadrunner! I love my 496 but I know it"s not pulling that much hp. Great work! tjs
11-26-2011, 08:18 PM
#39
Intermediate
Congratulations, your hard work has paid off! 1.416 HP/cu-in is stout indeed. I don't know that the cast manifolds are hurting you, especially if you had them extrude honed by Brzizinski. The tri-power setup is killing you. Ever thought about "cloning" the L72 instead?
The very large intake ports hurt the bottom/midrange torque.........and it shows. Good for peak power number and pushes the peak RPM further up by a few hundred.
Now, if you can only "disguise" mechanical front/rear carbs, you'd lose that big dip around 3150.
The very large intake ports hurt the bottom/midrange torque.........and it shows. Good for peak power number and pushes the peak RPM further up by a few hundred.
Now, if you can only "disguise" mechanical front/rear carbs, you'd lose that big dip around 3150.
