Choice of Replacement Engine 1960 C1
12-24-2011, 09:10 AM
#41
Drifting
327/300
So many excellent suggestion have been given, let me add one more vote for the 327/300 combo that was mentioned.
A 327/300 is the sweetest combo that has ever been designed and will make a huge diference in your 60. Combine with the right rear gears, 3:08 or 3:36 for high speed cruising or a 3:70 for a real boost. Drop the clutch and you will be sideways at the right rpm.
You can stand a cigarette on end on the air cleaner while the engine is running..it can idle that smooth. Put a pair of stock, round 'off road' mufflers if you want a louder high performance calling card.
The 327/300 was the high performance combo while the 340 version was the special high performance. the 250hsp was the base engine.
Your specs seem to cry out for this 327/300 combo.
The 400 block would be a real nice build but it doesn't sound as if that's where you want to go.
A 327/300 is the sweetest combo that has ever been designed and will make a huge diference in your 60. Combine with the right rear gears, 3:08 or 3:36 for high speed cruising or a 3:70 for a real boost. Drop the clutch and you will be sideways at the right rpm.
You can stand a cigarette on end on the air cleaner while the engine is running..it can idle that smooth. Put a pair of stock, round 'off road' mufflers if you want a louder high performance calling card.
The 327/300 was the high performance combo while the 340 version was the special high performance. the 250hsp was the base engine.
Your specs seem to cry out for this 327/300 combo.
The 400 block would be a real nice build but it doesn't sound as if that's where you want to go.
12-24-2011, 10:00 AM
#42
Le Mans Master
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2018 C1 of Year Finalist
For starters, if you don't want to race it, don't feel the need to burn the tires off it to impress your neighbors, I'd keep the 283 with these conditions. Make sure you have the heads with the pyramid symbol and at least a four barrel carb. Then, I'd slide an 097 cam in the engine. That'll make it sound like a Corvette and run a little better and be more responsive in the higher revs. If you want to do more, you can add the 2X4 carb setup but they're expensive and if you don't know what you're buying, you can get taken to the cleaners.
If you decide this isn't enough engine, you can always use the 327 block/crank as a baisis for an engine that will put out considerably more power than the 283.
Based on the way you say you want to use it, I wouldn't go any bigger than the 327 and all your stock appearing engine accesories will bolt right on. That's not the case with some of the other alternatives posted here.
If you decide this isn't enough engine, you can always use the 327 block/crank as a baisis for an engine that will put out considerably more power than the 283.
Based on the way you say you want to use it, I wouldn't go any bigger than the 327 and all your stock appearing engine accesories will bolt right on. That's not the case with some of the other alternatives posted here.
12-24-2011, 11:28 AM
#43
Advanced
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MOTOWN LS Iron Block Hybrid
MOTOWN LS Iron Block Hybrid
I have a 283 in my '60 right now. It's fun, and runs strong. But,,,,,,
I miss the '63 fuelie 327 with an AFB that was in it when I got it in '68. It had plenty of power to break the Muncie, and posi 411 back then.
My DD is a L76 powered '09 Pontiac G8 GT. With the Variable Cyl Activation, the thing gets in the mid 20's mpg, and goes like stink when you hit it.
Use one of these blocks, with your choice of LS top end, and get great mpg, and gobs of power.
For me it's tempting...
Steve
The unique Motown LS block lets you utilize a full compliment of standard small block Chevy components with the decided advantage of being able to employ high flowing LS-type cylinder heads. In addition to the internal components, the Motown LS allows use of expensive already-purchased items like pulley kits and external accessories. The block also boasts a coolant capacity in excess of 150 fluid ounces to provide superior cooling. Motown LS blocks are offered both bare and fully race-prepped for your convenience.
THE MOTOWN LS IS A UNIQUE ONE-OF-A-KIND BLOCK MADE ONLY BY WORLD PRODUCTS!
Note: The Motown block employs a standard SBC water flow path. When using LS-style heads on the Motown you must use an adapter on the heads to facilitate a return flow to the radiator. The World Products Cooling Adapter (p/n 061079) also accommodates standard SBC accessory brackets.
TECHNICAL SPECS
Casting ID Number: WOR-042A
Material: High density cast iron
Cam Bearings: Standard SB Chevy
Cam Location: Standard SB Chevy
Maximum Bore: 4.200”
Cylinder Wall Thickness: .250” at 4.200” bore
Deck Height: 9.249"
Water Jackets: Expanded for better cooling
Lubrication: Priority main oiling system
Oil System Features: Integral boss for
front feed, boss for rear scavenge, rear main cap can accept wet sump pump
Filter: Integral mount for spin-on filter
Oil Pan Rails: Solid (stock width) clearanced for 4.000" stroke
Main Cap Material: Street and Sportsman blocks caps are made from nodular iron, Race blocks are made from 1045 billet steel (unlike competitors’ softer 1020)
Main Caps: Street block caps 1 thru 5 have 4 bolts, Sportsman and Race blocks have splayed 4-bolt caps (2, 3,4) and straight 4-bolt caps (1, 5)
Main Cap Hardware: 1/2" ARP and ring dowels used to locate main caps firmly into position (not antiquated standard OEM outside registers)
Rear Main Seal: Two piece SB Chevy
Fuel Pump: Stock location SB Chevy
Motor Mounts: Dual (frnt & side) SBC/ LS
Cylinder Head Bolt Holes: Blind tapped to prevent water leaks
Lifters Bosses: Clearanced for vertical bar lifters (can use std. height LS lifters)
Clutch Linkage: Standard mounts
Starter Mount: Stock location
Weight: Approximately 190lbs.
12-24-2011, 11:57 AM
#44
Le Mans Master
Can't beat a ZZ4 for quality, cruising fun, power and simplicity of installation at a decent price.
I would go with an LS motor unless you are really wanting to build up a resto-mod with better suspension, 6-speed, IRS, etc.
I would go with an LS motor unless you are really wanting to build up a resto-mod with better suspension, 6-speed, IRS, etc.
05-04-2012, 12:06 AM
#45
not racing...
I've got a '59 with a '69 327/300 HP. That is all this car needs. Nothing crazy. You want to drive it. Everything bolted up fine. You could probably find a bone stock 350/300 HP that would also be plenty. I beat on mine pretty good when I take it out. I drive all my cars the same. My car is all stock, but all new components and it don't mind 120MPH at all.
Have fun with it, but don't make it so you don't want to drive it.
Dan
Have fun with it, but don't make it so you don't want to drive it.
Dan
05-04-2012, 06:14 AM
#46
Team Owner
5 month old thread - I think this fella may have already made his decision by now.
05-04-2012, 09:00 AM
#47
Safety Car
This is what I have in my '62, and to me it's about perfect with the round off-roads for one of these old cruisers...
As for a cam, pick one that has a nice fat midrange torque curve, it's torque=fun on the street, not peak high RPM output.
I'd also go with a roller cam, no oil worries in the future etc.
Beautiful looking car, enjoy!
Paul
05-04-2012, 09:32 AM
#48
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Canada's capital
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I have seen 289, 280 hp crate motors for sale. I could get it in a 1960 block and it would be kinda neat to stick to the 1960 theme of the car. Would that be enough motor in a 1960 vette to seem quick and eager. Mind you I do not plan on racing this car. Just want it to feel and sound like it could go if I wanted to wind her out.
If I was you I'd go with a 383 stroker or an old 400 small block like Mr. Parsons has in his 56 here on the forum. There's no substitute for cubic inches! Either can be made to look identical to an old 283. And go like a scalded dog!
