Doug1964

I am new to this forum. I will be taking delivery January 6 of my first 1960 corvette. This will be my first corvette. The car is currently equipped with a 1962 NOM 283 block from a chevy passenger car and while it runs well, does not offer much performance being a very mild engine. I am trying to decide what is the best build for a replacement engine. Should I go with a 1960 289 and build with better horsepower, or should I go for a 327 built to mid year specs or a 350. I am wanting to use the stock rams horn exhaust manifolds, stock performance exhausts with the crossover tube and will retain the through the bumper exhaust exit. I was planning on using the stock style offroad mufflers. Thanks for any input.

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Doug.

wmf62

ZZ4 or ZZ383
Bill

Doug1964

Thanks for the input Bill. Can the ZZ4 be dressed up to appear like a stock motor. I want to retain the stock motor appearance with colors, front engine mounts, cast aluminum valve covers, ignition shielding, etc. I was planning on use stock appearing valve covers which incorporated a nearly hidden pcv system. Will all the stock items bolt on to a ZZ4?

firstgear

383 stroker.....

C-1 Generation 2

I would guess the only problem would be center bolt valve covers on both those engines.But I sure some one has worked around it.
I have polished valve covers on my 62 with inbored holes for the PCV and breather.

Gray and silver great color combo!

Nowhere Man

they sell adapters and there is many threads on the PCV

Doug1964

Thanks C-1 Gen. The car is currently painted 1958 Metallic Charcoal Grey with silver coves. Has 4 wheel discs with a manual dual reservoir master cylinder and Classic Air, white soft top, 4 speed and original style shifter. Not sure of the rear differential. The only thing really lacking is a little more pep in the motor. I don't need a full out race car engine just something with a little 0-55 mph pep and some curb appeal sound. If I replace the motor, I might get around to a power steering upgrade too.

I am not used to going real fast, my last project is my 53 ****** CJ3A. 47 MPH top end, but 47 seems fast in an old ****** flatfender. www.flatfenderfever.com. Quite a departure from the 60 vette, although a lot of the mechanics are similar.

UberLegend

Doug touched on a question that I have. How much is involved using the C1 front motor mount on later sbc?

Doug1964

I have seen 289, 280 hp crate motors for sale. I could get it in a 1960 block and it would be kinda neat to stick to the 1960 theme of the car. Would that be enough motor in a 1960 vette to seem quick and eager. Mind you I do not plan on racing this car. Just want it to feel and sound like it could go if I wanted to wind her out.

54greg

First things first. A 289 is a FORD motor!

Doug1964

Meant 283. Sorry

ZBRA

The ZZ4 heads use centerbolt valve covers.

I am not 100% sure, but I think the Fastburn heads on the ZZ383 are drilled for perimiter bolt and center bolt valve covers.

ZBRA

Once the one-and-only original engine in gone, there is no reason in the world to go anything smaller than a 350. No reason to go with the leak prone 2-piece rear-main early blocks either.

I completely understand wanting to have an original looking engine compartment. That's still easy to do when using a ZZ4, ZZ383, etc. I strongly suggest using some type of crate engine that builds on the 96 and later Vortec blocks. They are easy to spot, as the timing cover is plastic. They are the very best gen 1 SBC blocks as far as machine quality and sealing goes.

C-1 Generation 2

If it was me I think a 5-speed would be the first thing I'd want and put off the engine for a while.That's what I did and have never regreted it,but I'm not even close to stock.
The *****'s is really nice.I have a friend that did a complete restoration on one stock first,then upgraded to a Chevy V6 and auto and last year was on the cover of one of the 4-wheeler magazines. I think he's going to do a *****'s wagon next.I just recently noticed two *****'s wagons behind a barn local.

wmf62

while an early intake will fit on a ZZ383, the intake ports may not line up; probably have to use a vortec style intake system
Bill

BarryK

my personal choice would be a 383 stroker motor. Gives really good HP and torque and can easily be dressed to look 100% stock although the ease of the "dress-up" may differ depending on the engine block you start with to make the 383 motor.
Something like a stock 350ci block made into a 383 is still going to have to modify for PCV to look like a older style motor, but start with something like a slightly older 327 block with the rear vent tube and it's a lot easier.
Example: A friend and fellow forum member on here has a '65 with the original motor who pulled it for safekeeping (and to get more power in the car) and built a 383 from a 327 block and than dressed it to look exactly like a stock L76 327/365hp motor. looking at the car you wouldn't know it wasn't original (except for the wrong stamppad numbers of course). This was easier than starting with a 350 block that doesn't have the rear vent tube and than you need to find a way to hide and/or disguise the PCV system, you can use an original type intake with oil fill tube rather than a cap on the valve cover, etc.

This is just one idea but most likely the route I'll eventually go on my car when I get the funds to put in a more powerful motor.

DZAUTO

I'm in total agreement with Barry above!!!

Although, my preference is starting out with a SB400 block-----------------------and yes, I realize good, rebuildable SB400 blocks are becoming kind of scarce---------------------but they are out there.
A well built SB400, cammed to produce max output before 6000rpm makes and awsome pkg.
And yes, just as Barry pointed out, the later blocks do not have the rear hole in the block for crankcase ventilation. Thus, a little ingenuity must be used to vent the crankcase so that the early finned (or painted steel if you prefer) valve covers, WITHOUT holes, can be used.
With minimal machine work, a STOCK 400 block and crank can be used to build a 420 cubic inch engine. This is achieved with a .030 bore and offset grinding the rod journals down to small journal size (.100 undersize) and using 66-67 327 rods (the 66-67 327 rods are a little beefier than the 62-65 rods).
Also, a 383 will make an EXCELLENT boost to performance. If a 62-67 327 block is used (they are small journal blocks) to make a 383, then one of two things must be done. The mains of the crank must be turned down to small journal size, 2.30in (least preferred), OR, have the main bores enlarged to accept a large journal crank, 2.45in (preferred).

One last thing that can be done, is to machine a 350 crank to fit a 62-67 327 block. This is tooooooooooooo easy and the least costly. Simply have the mains of a 350 crank turned down to fit the small journal block. ALSO-------------VERY IMPORTANT, on a 350 crank, the flange BETWEEN the rear main bearing journal and the rear seal journal has a slightly larger diameter than the flange on a 283-327 crank. That flange will have to be slightly turned down to fit into the groove of a 327 block/cap. Once the mains of a 350 crank are turned down to fit into a 327 block, the engine is built up just the same as would be done to ANY 350.

Tom Parsons

BarryK

wow, I'm not used to people agreeing with me on here anymore regardless of what I post (which has become a rare thing for me).
You shocked me when I read that someone was in agreement to what I posted.


BTW, I do like the idea of using a larger 400ci block. I just don't much about them to know if they have rear vents or not etc but the idea of starting with a larger displacement block is always nice and than add a stroker crank. If there are SB400 blocks with the rear vent to help hide and keep the PCV stock looking than that would probably have to be my first choice over a smaller 327 block

MikeM

For starters, if you don't want to race it, don't feel the need to burn the tires off it to impress your neighbors, I'd keep the 283 with these conditions. Make sure you have the heads with the pyramid symbol and at least a four barrel carb. Then, I'd slide an 097 cam in the engine. That'll make it sound like a Corvette and run a little better and be more responsive in the higher revs. If you want to do more, you can add the 2X4 carb setup but they're expensive and if you don't know what you're buying, you can get taken to the cleaners.

If you decide this isn't enough engine, you can always use the 327 block/crank as a baisis for an engine that will put out considerably more power than the 283.

Based on the way you say you want to use it, I wouldn't go any bigger than the 327 and all your stock appearing engine accesories will bolt right on. That's not the case with some of the other alternatives posted here.

Frankie the Fink

That would pretty much be my approach. If you feel the car just needs a little 'shot in the arm' performance wise this make sense. If you want to make it a 'screamer' then you are on that slippery slope...an asphalt-ripping engine will soon turn up the other shortcomings of these cars and then you get into an 'arms race' improving things like suspension, steering, exhaust, brakes, etc.. Nothing wrong with that as long as you know the time and cost going in.

Great color combo on the car BTW!