6T7L71CPE

Great idea! It should have been done that way in the first place. My two pieces were bolted on top of the spring plate. I guess you can eliminate the original plate with this design.

Ron Miller

That's similar to the method I was trying to propose to properly locate the holes in the plates bolted to the differential. I realize you may want all of the assembly chromed . . . . on the originals only the "U" bracket and its connectors and the rear drawbar that the hitch ball bolts into were chromed. The other pieces are not normally visible were painted black!

I'll still try and get you a picture of the two piece connectors at the differential on my car. They replace the original flat plate and are not used in conjunction with the original plate.

Looks like you're on the right track!!!

FWIW . . .

Ron

VetteJohn

Here's another picture that may help with the detail.



As you can see the bar is bent. This is to clear the tub for the spare.

Ron Miller

May be a little difficult to see in the photo, but that's the way the pull tabs at the differential on my car, and on the previous Valley hitches for C2's were made as well.

Ironcross

yes, they have to be chrome plated......the cheap flash plating is not enough to protect them....

LynnJ

Or you could go this route:

See the last four pictures here:

http://community.webshots.com/album/582480239XLJMUY

Not an easy task, but worth the effort. With a little fabrication skills, welding skills and a lot of patience you can do it.

I welded a 1-1/4" "receiver" (2" long) to a 10" piece of 2"X2"X1/4" angle and bolted the piece of angle to the rear frame cross member. This length of angle fits between two dimples in the cross member. This strengthened the thin cross member.

Then I cut two pieces of 1" square tubing (I think it was 1/8" wall) to go from the top flat portion of the 2" angle over to the chassis on both sides. I bolted them through the top flat portion of the angle and through the frame cross member using 1/2" bolts.

Then on the chassis where it is open on the inside I welded two tabs on each chassis end to bolt the other ends of the 1" Sq tunbing.

Pretty simple set-up, but a very "tight" place to work. After mocking it up I removed the exhaust and spare tire compartment so I could get to it better for the final welding and install.

By the way, I use it to pull a small light weight luggage trailer on road trips. I wouldn't recommend towing a race car or car trailer, lol.

TC233

Very ingenious I really like that idea. Very very slick

TC233

Immediately after posting that comment I was on ebay and wouldn't you know it, there was a bottom plate for the spring assembly for sale for $12.00 for a C2, So I bought it. I will use it to weld the new clip on and then send it off for chroming and not have to disassemble the rear spring assembly.

So it looks like I am good to go

Westlotorn

I found one of these Valley Hitches for my C2 last week. The guy was asking $100 so I grabbed it. Complete Hitch. I thought it was too good to pass on.
I hope to pull our boat with it some day, that would be fun.

68hemi

I could not see the pictures in post #26 but it sounds like what I did years ago on a mid year. I remove the rear valance and had a strong unit built/attached to the frame for a receiver tube, cut a square hole in the valance behind the license plate and attached a spring type plate bracket off of an old car that had a gas fill behind the plate. That way you don't see the ugly hitch all of the time. The ball mount was held in with a threaded bolt that came in through the bottom.

Steve Stone

I have a valley hitch very much like the photo shown here. I made sure the spring bolts are the correct length due to the increase combined thickness, about .5" more for the plates. I also added a piece of wire to keep the front pin in as I never wanted to get launched if the pin was to fall out and drop the draw bar on the ground. My hitch is rated class 2 (2,000 pounds). I pull a trailer that is empty weight of 600#. Loaded trailer gets close to the 2,000# when it is really loaded. I remove the draw bar (2 pins) when not in use so that if rear end hit, I should not have to replace the more than likely broken rear end. We have travelled with this hitch and our trailer for over 15 years.

Steve

Westlotorn

2,000 Pounds, wow that is not much, I have seen several pictures of guys pulling trailers with race cars, that must be at least 5,000 pounds? Same hitch or did they have improved models? My car originally had one of the bumper hitches with no attachment to the frame or differential. The Valley has to be better than that for sure.
Have a great weekend.
Mark

Steve Stone

Checked my Valley hitch this AM and it is a Class 1 hitch. It is stamped 2,000# GTW and 200# ball weight max. I had thought that it was Class 2 but still I have always gone by the numbers on the draw bar.

I am new at posting photos so hopefully below are a couple of them showing our ride, one near Banff Canada and the at Ely, MN.