mikey

hey guys,
this question pertains to my LS2 '64, but wouldn't imagine the engine makes a difference to the answer..
i am replacing the radiator with a DeWitts. i want to flush the engine but i cannot open the drain plugs on the motor (they are behind the motor mount adapters for this swap).

i need a creative way to flush the motor.. i'm concerned with sticking a hose in the water pump because i am on well water and i cannot drain the block after the flush. can i dump distilled water down a hose still connected to the upper (outlet) side of the water pump and just let it come out the lower (inlet) side of the pump? or does the water flush flow path have to be same as normal operation? will water gravity fed into the water pump make it all the way through the motor? any idea how many gallon jugs might be needed? what is typical capacity inside the block (how much water will still be in the motor when i'm done so i know how much coolant to mix with it?)

am i over thinking this?

Powershift

Mike:

I would buy about 10 gallons of distilled water (about $10 total). I would open up the upper radiator hose at the thermostat and remove the thermostat. After draining all the coolant you can, pour a about 1/2 of the distilled water through the intake manifold and let it go out through the lower radiator hose or water pump inlet connection.

After installing the new radiator, button things up and refill the car with the remaining distilled water. The cooling system holds about 5 gallons (20 quarts) total. You will probably be able to add about 2-3 gallons of new distilled water. Run the car until hot with water going through the heater core. Drain everything you can, and refill with Zerex G-05 or other quality antifreeze. Use concentrated antifreeze and not the 50/50 mix. Should take about 2-1/2 gallons new antifreeze (10 quarts) to get the proper mix.

Larry

Redbird

Mike, On my 62 the block plugs are on both sides of the block just above the oil pan. Get a good box end or socket on them straight and they should break loose. I may be way off since I am not familiar with 64s.

dharris45

Not sure of your issue. Are you saying you can't get to the block drains?

I just did my 66. I put it on jack stands, removed the block drain plugs from underneath. Removed the thermostat housing and thermostat and ran water through it until everything came out clear.

Filled with a mix of distilled water and Zerex G-05

Frankie the Fink

You are paying Tom DeWitt a princely sum for your replacement radiator (and they are worth every penny)...along with that price comes some technical assistance.

Call Tom and get the word straight from the pro himself, he not only knows his product but most of the applications they are used in as well...and, yes, you are over-thinking this.

Powershift

The OP said his 1964 car had a late model LS2 engine installed. I assume this changes things a bit.

Larry

mikey

Thanks Larry! This procedure sounds like it should do exactly what I need!

Others: the 2005 LS2 in my '64 is why I cannot access the block drain plugs.

MikeM

If that's a 2005 engine, you shouldn't have enough crud in the block to worry about flushing out. I think you're wasting your time and money by trying to flush something that probably isn't there, especially since you can't pull the bottom plugs.

Dan Hampton

I agree with Mike but if I were doing it, I would go to a shop and have the system professionally scavenged. It takes about fifteen minutes and a $100. You don't need to worry about what to do with all the A/Freeze you purge and because the procedure discharges exactly what it feeds in, you don't need to worry about air locks. Neat, clean, and efficient. No muss, no fuss.