climbabout

Decided to replace the bulbs on my 64 (non AC, non backup light) instrument panel with the 1817 lamps as my instrument cluster was unbearably dim. Found out that the previous owner had put ge #53 bulbs in. Followed the posts here for removing the steering column and seat and using threaded rod to support the cluster while I worked on my back. All went fairly well and when I tested it - what a difference! I can see at night again. However, the bad news is after working under there, I was a bit uneasy with the harness as there were several questionable splices as well as connectors and other wires that were connected nowhere. Not sure if the previous owner used the wrong harness, or if Bubba made one too many visits under my dash, but while trying to clean things up and test things, I had a short from a stray wire that I could not see and more smoke than I imagined could come from a melted wire. Luckily it happened while I was working on the car when I connected the battery and I was able to disconnect power before much damage was done. I shudder to think what could have happened if this occurred while driving, even though I carry a fire extinguisher.
So here's my question - searching posts for dash wiring harnesses, am I correct in assuming that the consensus pick is the Lectric Limited?
Any other advice or tips from those who have done this are very much appreciated.
Thanks
Tim

5thvet

Yup, I used Lectric Ltd and it all went very smooth. I know others have also used M&H with the same results! Your pick!

Don

Pilot Dan

If you already have the column and seat out and the cluster is loose,
NOW would be the perfect time to let the project creep truck roll over you and replace the harness. Pilot Dan

climbabout

That's the plan -am I assuming correctly that a new dash harness includes a fuse box?
Tim

5thvet

Yup

climbabout

Ok - got my dash harness ordered and while waiting for it to arrive, I removed the seats, steering column, instrument cluster and for good measure, the console and side panels so nothing gets scratched. Have the dash harness and fuse panel completely removed as well.

Question 1 - the old harness has 2 red wires exiting just above the fuse box connected to what is shown as a circuit breaker in my Assembly Manual. It was just dangling under the dash and I can't find where it should be mounted - anyone know where it mounts?

Question 2 - the grommet where the wiper motor, ballast resistor and windshield washer wires go through - any tricks for removing that and reinstalling it? Looks like kind of a bear to work with. In removing the old harness I cheated and cut the connectors off to save time - but of course I won't have that option with the new harness.

Question 3 - I thought I might try and lube the vent cables while I'm under there - what's the recommendation for lube?

Thanks
Tim

Pilot Dan

Here you go:



There is a clip that holds this to the side near the vent.



The best way to remove this grommet is get a small putty knife under the lip and pry it out. You can also push it unwards from the engine side if you prefer.

As for lube of the vent cable, I like a product called Syl glide available from NAPA. It's clear won't wash away, and stays put.

While you are waiting for the harness to arrive, give some thought to getting rid of the old dash insulation if you have the brown stuff still in there. So glad I removed it all. It used to fall down in dusty clumps on my nice new carpeting. The second photo shows a sample of the repalacement I installed. Pilot Dan

climbabout

Thanks Dan - where did you get that replacement insulation and what is it called?
Tim

oldsarge

The insulation matts are just called firewall insulation, they are available from all the suppliers, about $200.00 with the fasteners.

Pilot Dan

Just to clarify, I am talking about the loose brown stuff (as in photo 1)
not the insulation with the fasteners.

What I did was to take a roll of jute backing (like the stuff that goes under the carpet and I made my own pieces. You can buy it pre cut in large pieces, but it is very hard to install and glue that way with everything else still installed in the dash. See the grey section in photo 2. I R&R 'd every piece of the loose brown stuff in the rest of the dash as well and it turned out fantastic. Wish I had taken more pictures, but you get the idea.

JohnZ

Here's the dash insulation ABOVE the hard-faced dash mat; best to install it without the dash panel in the way.

climbabout

Nice job John.
Tim

62Jeff

Sound deadener
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...dener-kit.aspx

climbabout

Thanks Jeff - I assume this attaches with some sort of adhesive?
Tim

62Jeff

Yes. I used 3M spray adhesive on my 65

Pilot Dan

Yup, that's exactly what I did with mine.

climbabout

We'll - finished the harness install and all went very well. Removed the Instrument cluster, steering column, seats and glove box which is the only way to go. Put all new bulbs in and of course pre-tested them with one of the old sockets and a car battery. Did some touch up painting and fixed other issues along the way as well - previously had no glove box light, no heater control light, PO had a half-a**ed kill switch installed which I removed and cleaned up the connection from the distributor and coil, plus my vent cables were nearly frozen. Just before reinstalling the seats and steering column I tested what I could, - headlights, interior lights, instrument lights etc.. and all worked flawlessly. Did as much assembly of the instrument cluster part of the harness on my workbench and then slipped the whole assembly in - that was a big back saver. Re-installed the steering column and went to test everything one final time and all worked perfectly except the headlamp warning light. Best I could figure is that the new bulb failed as it worked fine when I tested everthing just before installing the steering column. Talk about frustrating! For now it will stay dark as I have other more pressing matters to tend to.
Thanks to all who chimed in with advice.
Tim

65GGvert

You probably know the headlamp warning bulb is a different bulb that flashes? Doesn't explain the not working though. Did it work before? If not maybe the ground at the front where the switches are on the motors is loose or corroded. The voltage for that bulb comes off the light blue wire on the headllamp switch.

climbabout

Thanks - yes - it did work on the old harness and for good measure I put in a brand new 257 flashing lamp that I tested prior to installation and it also worked when I tested it just before installing the steering column.
Tim

gschlarman

Hello climbabout, I know this is an older thread, but am hoping you and others are still willing to engage...

Anyway, I am about to install a new LL dash harness along with a spare restored cluster on my '66 and am intrigued by your "assembly" on workbench comment. I don't think I've read of this approach elsewhere. Can you expand upon it and provide any helpful hints unique to this way of installing? Would you do it this way again? Have you ever done an install the old fashioned "inverted" way? Of course I'm happy to hear others' thoughts as well.
Best
Glenn