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Thanks Larry I was just looking for the view of the pipes going into the collector/tube. What size is the exit on the collector/side pipes. Many thanks
Jim L. I remember right when I was building my GS I think you had a similar set you built, if so can you drop me a line? Many thanks
Kevin,
Here is a shot of the headers I had made for my Grand Sport. They are as accurate as I knew how to make them. Header flange nipples are 1-5/8".... no room for anything larger. Tubes are 1-3/4 feeding into the tapered collector and 3" exhaust:
Joe, is that OJ Hanna's old car? Sure looks like it.
Jim
Yep , bought it from OJ some years ago as a basket case when he was closing his shop in Dallas. Nice guy. I still have the inner GS doors if ya know somebody that needs them. Sold it cus I was gonna move to reno. Should have keep it :-(
Here is a shot of the headers I had made for my Grand Sport. They are as accurate as I knew how to make them. Header flange nipples are 1-5/8".... no room for anything larger. Tubes are 1-3/4 feeding into the tapered collector and 3" exhaust:
My headers are 1 3/4" terminating in a 4" collector. The individual tubes continue into the collector to "help" with scavenging.
Jim's headers are the real-deal.
Last edited by Mr. Wizzard; 08-24-2014 at 05:19 PM.
Yep , bought it from OJ some years ago as a basket case when he was closing his shop in Dallas. Nice guy. I still have the inner GS doors if ya know somebody that needs them. Sold it cus I was gonna move to reno. Should have keep it :-(
Thanks for confirming that, Joe. I just had a hunch.....
OJ is one of the nicest guys you'd ever want to meet. You are lucky to have had a chance to meet him.
Thanks Larry and Jim since I hopped to the C3 side I 'm looking for something that will work and work with a GS frame. Kevin
Well, there you go. If you are doing a traditional small block, the headers I had made would serve you well. If you are doing an LS engine, Larry's headers are what you want.
They are actually universal motorcycle mirrors that I found on Ebay for $19.00! I shortened the mounts in 5-minutes on a lathe, and used some double-stick tape (that was left over from a program we did for a defense contractor) to mount them. This tape is bad-*** so there were no drilled holes!
Don't be too upset. Both of my doors have holes in them for the factory-style mirrors.....
On the passenger-side, I have to make a new strut that will place the mirror behind the vent-window strut so it can be viewed from the driver's seat. I'll get to it in a couple weeks.
And yes, while the mirror is only 3", it is convex and i have a much better view of everything to the side and behind the car.
I did a test drive yesterday and it was nice....I didn't feel the 100 degree heat until I vacated the car. Amazing how a brisk drive makes you unaware of anything else!
Larry what Bosch fuel pump is that your running and have you had any issues of fuel starvation? Also it looks like it is mounted higher than the outlet lines from the tank. I have a similar setup that Gary has in his spec car and trying to figure what my best opinion is for the LS 3 427 with 618hp. Thanks Kevin
The pump I'm using is a Bosch 044. I've used them for the last 20 years and they are very dependable.
I can tell you this, however.....on extremely hot days 102+, the hot fuel causes the pump to buzz rather loudly, which when added to the heat in the car's interior, makes the drive a little less pleasant.
I'm running the regulator in the rear of the car with the single line dead-head GM system. I will be adding a return line soon, which I believe will put a stop to the noise.
When I get the time to pull the body to narrow the rear suspension, I plan to build a tank that's heavily baffled. It'll likely house two 044's resting near the bottoms. I will also paint the tank white, which is an old trick from my drag racing days. It'll actually make a significant difference in fuel temperature,
Larry time to plum the fuel line and I noticed you prefabbed your stainless steel line then mounted it. Question is how did you route the line? Thanks
Kevin
Hi Kevin,
You will have to excuse some of the pictures, as there isn't much space under the car when the rear is up on jack stands.
In the rear, the fuel line runs down the top of the 4" chassis tube to the intersect with the cross-member.
The line makes a 90° turn and travels to the intersect with the drive shaft tunnel, where it turns again to parallel the edge of the tunnel all the way to the firewall. Note that I used split rubber hose to prevent metal to metal contact where space was tight.
I don't have a lift here at the house, nor do I have one at work. I can tell you that once the tube was bent, we were able to easily snake it into position...which was quite remarkable given the space between the car's underside (on jack stand) and the ground.
I hope that helps.
08-24-2014, 01:00 PM
