65Maroon_Coupe

We are doing a 'frame-on driver' restore of a 65 Coupe. The plan is to strip the front and rear suspension, clean up all the frame rails we can get to and coat them with POR-15.

In your experience, is a quart enough for a brush on job?

Also - I am aware of POR-15's UV issues, an was planning on covering with Krylon #1613. I know there are many ways to skin this cat, but does anyone else recommend something that they prefer that is in a similar price range?

(I do understand that frame off would be easier - but the goal here is to get the 65 to run and get it out of the garage so we can complete the full frame off on my Dad's 57!)

Thank you!

-Jac

6T5RUSH

Jac,

My experience with POR-15 is you will need 2 quarts to do the frame and suspension. If just the frame and cross members, you might get by with just a quart. If you don't totally remove all the paint from the metal, be sure and use their Metal Prep and Metal Ready.

Oh, layout the clothing you'll be wearing that you WILL throw away when using this product. Long, up to the forearm, rubber gloves DO help to keep your hands somewhat clean. Stuff get's on you, your ever-lovin' wife's gonna' LUV you HA!, at a distance, for at least a week.

I did my open car haul trailer a month ago. I used a gallon of the stuff 'cause I did the undercarriage as well as the top. Because the product was not UV rated, you don't have to worry about the undercarriage, it'll never see sunlight, right? I did use a self-etching primer after the POR-15 application on the sunlight side of the trailer and topcoated with Rustoleum. She came out SHARP!

Here's a pic of my efforts:

Good luck!

Regards,

Jim
In God We Trust!

6T5RUSH

Forgot to mention, if you open the can, you better use it all. Air makes it become a "rock". You do get some delay in it becoming a "rock" by placing saran wrap over the opening of the can before you seal it back up. But DO plan on using it quickly.

Jim
In God We Trust!

65Maroon_Coupe

Thanks Jim!

If the chassis ends up seeing sunlight, I think I will have bigger issues than the UV rating of my paint...I am a shiny side up kind of guy!

Not sure if I am going to do the suspension parts with it yet. Was planning on spray cans, but maybe I should get a separate pint and do them...

Great tip on using it all. We already have a quart, or I would have bought in in the pint cans to help with that.

Picking up the Metal Prep today, hopefully we can get everything cleaned and Metal-Prepped in one sitting and then hit the POR-15 in one shot! I'll work from the ends to the center, if I have to get a little more for an under car cross member it will not be as big of a deal.

Thanks!

6T5RUSH

Saw your other thread on spraying Eastwood products for that finished look. You could use those as the topcoats to the POR-15 application for a lasting finish.

Jim
In God We Trust!

AdamH65

I used POR15 on the frame and underbody on the frame-off I completed on my '76 CJ7.

like 6T5Rush stated, wear throw away clothes.

note, if you get some spatter on your face or neck, a razor will scrape it off... yes, I know from experience.

Nowhere Man

used that crappy paint on my Chevelle frame. wished I never seen it. the stuff chips easy and is hard to touch up

6T5RUSH

Nowhere_Man,

My experience is it won't chip if you follow their directions and prep the surface using their Metal Ready and Metal Prep.

I've used it on my '65 frame and the only places where it shows wear is where I placed a floor jack directly onto the frame, metal to metal. It marked it up.



Jim
In God We Trust!

Nowhere Man

Jim if it wasent so much work I would pull the body and have the frame sandblasted and powder coated. or even a nice single stage paint job. the only thing I agree with you about it is to wear throw away cloths while using it

C1-Curt

I recently did a C1 frame and just the frame took a quart so for all of that you will need 2 quarts.

I ended up buying a cheap Harbor Freight spray gun and spraying all of my parts. I did not need any reducer. I also bought their disposable cups because the cups are almost impossible to clean. For the gun, I just ran a bunch of lacquer thinner through it and it cleaned up fine.

I went ahead and got a gal of John Deer Blitz Black and top coated everything. Really did not need to but the paint was only $30 or $35 a gal.

woodsdesign

The best way to add a top coat is when the POr 15 is tacky. Other wise it will flake.

C1-Curt

They claim you can also do the last coat of POR as a dusting which will dull the last coat giving the top coat more to stick to.

From what I can tell that John Deer paint seems to stick to about anything so hopefully I will not have an issue but you never know. I have top coated in the past without issue but I guess it depends on what top coat you use.