I am joining the 5-speed club, wooohooo.
#1
Racer
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I am joining the 5-speed club, wooohooo.
I have been collecting parts to start on my 5 speed conversion. I picked up a freshly rebuilt T-5 trans and he also gave me another tailshaft so I can cut and smooth the torque arm boss. Today I found the needle in the haystack.....a 1983 Camaro V-8 T-5 bellhousing with the transmission, PP, FW, and clutch fork. I read numerous threads but need some help.
I have a question from the T-5 guru's as far as what clutch kit is used? I would think with using the 83Z28 bell I would just use a Z28 clutch kit, am I right? Thanks in advance.
I have a question from the T-5 guru's as far as what clutch kit is used? I would think with using the 83Z28 bell I would just use a Z28 clutch kit, am I right? Thanks in advance.
#6
As long as you have the fine spline disc. The Muncie slip yoke even fits.
One issue that will have to be addressed is the speedometer bullet will run your cable into the cross member. So if you are using your stock cross member you will probably have to make a small notch in the cross member for the speedometer / cable connection will clear.
Jeff
One issue that will have to be addressed is the speedometer bullet will run your cable into the cross member. So if you are using your stock cross member you will probably have to make a small notch in the cross member for the speedometer / cable connection will clear.
Jeff
#7
Melting Slicks
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Congratulations on finding the '83 bellhousing! . . . I haven't seen another one since I bought mine over 3 years ago. I bought a new clutch, pp kit from American Powertrain (for the 26 spline application). Lastly, I did not need to notch the frame to get my speedo bullet to plug into the side of the tail shaft, although I will admit that it's a tight fit and a pretty sharp bend. Good luck with the conversion!
Tom
Tom
#9
Racer
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Jeff & Tom thanks again, I have a new LUK kit I bought a while back. So I guess all thats left is to do it. I am going to attempt it without cutting the crossmember, if it fights me to bad I will get the sawzall out. I have been checking ebay out for a used short throw, seems like way more used Ford shifters, just need to research what mods to the shifter plate is needed to use one of the plentiful ford shifters. What fluid are you guys using?
#10
Racer
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Florida, I did read somewhere that the 90 degree tach adapter has been used. But I think Tom had detailed the last steps included putting the cable on before the the trans mount bolts go in.
#11
Melting Slicks
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While I'm sure a short throw shifter may work, the issue is that you need to move the shifter forward 1.5"s to be center in the console opening. Most of us that have done this conversion have used an original shifter that has been cut on top of the shifter mounting plate, and welded a "dog leg" to the cut off shifter to mount, and to that have bolted a modified C2 type shifter. Once the shifter boot is on, it all looks completely stock!
Tom
Tom
#12
I found that the after market shifters are larger and I could not fit them in under the console and get the trans high enough in the rear to get the drive shaft angles correct.
As Tom said you need to weld an angled piece to the stock shifter stub that will locate your shifter in the original location.
Jeff
As Tom said you need to weld an angled piece to the stock shifter stub that will locate your shifter in the original location.
Jeff
#13
Le Mans Master
If it helps, heres what we had to do for my 68 to get the shifter in the gate and look stock. I didnt want to use the bells they came with because of the tilt.
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Racer
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I am going to start with the stock shifter because I have 2 of them. What is the general concensus on fluid type? Thanks again guys for all the great help and support.
#15
Le Mans Master
I used Royal Purple synchromax in one, put ATF in the other one. I see zero difference between the 2.
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Racer
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Technite, after following Tom and Jeff's detailed install. This looks to be a really easy conversion, I may have to recant that statement once I get started but the hardest part to me looks to be the crossmember...cut or not cut.