327 365HP oil
07-20-2009, 07:57 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
something with high zddp, many use shell retello multiweight diesel oil, duke over at ncrs and formally here highly recommends it and used for years with no issues.....my choice as well 
07-20-2009, 08:04 PM
#3
Intermediate
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For the most part, you need .001 clearance per journal diameter.
This will for sure vary with diff. applications. Ex: indurance / marine etc.
If you don't know your oil clearances....try 20/50wt and if you
are running a flat tappet cam make sure u have Hi Zinc Content
07-20-2009, 10:43 PM
#6
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I know of camshaft premature failure. Some engine experts and car mag articles blame it on low zinc oil. For the extra $10 a year, why not be safe? You can break the engine in with an oil like Brad Penn "Penn Grade" which is a high zinc content racing oil, then switch to synthetic.
07-20-2009, 10:52 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
I know of camshaft premature failure. Some engine experts and car mag articles blame it on low zinc oil. For the extra $10 a year, why not be safe? You can break the engine in with an oil like Brad Penn "Penn Grade" which is a high zinc content racing oil, then switch to synthetic.
07-22-2009, 08:46 PM
#9
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In my experience, it doesn't pay to be cheap. The engine builder who gave me the advise has been doing this for 40 years and builds most of the engines used by stock car racers in ND. There is a reason zinc was in the formula used in oils and if the EPA mandates a change you can be assured there is a downside to the change.
07-22-2009, 09:05 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
I was using Shell CI-4.
No worries, nothing but a roller cam from now on.
07-22-2009, 11:32 PM
#11
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In my experience, it doesn't pay to be cheap. The engine builder who gave me the advise has been doing this for 40 years and builds most of the engines used by stock car racers in ND. There is a reason zinc was in the formula used in oils and if the EPA mandates a change you can be assured there is a downside to the change.
07-23-2009, 12:16 AM
#12
Le Mans Master
It's threads like this that caused Duke to say "F--K It" and quit posting here. Too many people that don't know **** posting B.S. If you want the truth about oil, read one of the many articles he has written for several magazines or his many posts on the subject on the NCRS and other forums. His articles are based on fact and scientific evidence, not hear-say, rumors or what some engine builder named Bubba tells his customers.
Jim
Jim
07-23-2009, 12:41 AM
#13
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It's threads like this that caused Duke to say "F--K It" and quit posting here. Too many people that don't know **** posting B.S. If you want the truth about oil, read one of the many articles he has written for several magazines or his many posts on the subject on the NCRS and other forums. His articles are based on fact and scientific evidence, not hear-say, rumors or what some engine builder named Bubba tells his customers.
Jim
Jim
But who are you referring to 
Everyone is entitled to an opinion, be it text book or hands on
Thought this was a friendly place
07-23-2009, 07:29 AM
#14
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Why worry, Shell Rotella 15-40. Got zinc, good price and good oil. I run the pi$$ out of my built 350 and it's very happy when I take it out for stroll.
Last edited by obx2323; 07-23-2009 at 07:33 AM.
07-23-2009, 10:12 AM
#16
Le Mans Master
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It's kind of funny when someone asks for help or has a general question some forum members will object to other members ideas. Everyone has their own opinion weather it's from reading books, magazines, or just from conversation. There is so much information that it gets confusing at times. Then we tend to defend what we have used in the past because it works for us. Not sure in this post there is a 100% correct answer to best oil. There are so many types and additives so how do you decide? You can spend days searching the Internet reading all the great stuff about tests and scientific findings. They are probably all good for most motors. If you change the oil before it gets too dirty or starts to break down, you will probably be fine. If you use oil that the engine builders and racers use, you will probably pay a little more but with a solid lifter motor, might be worth it. I choose Shell Rotella T 15-40wt because of what I read and I had a solid lifter motor. Then I ordered a 383 stroker roller cam motor and the builder told me to use Shell Rotella T 15-40wt without knowing I already use it. All I know is a bunch of forum members with high winding motors use it, John Z likes it, cost is not a factor nor is locating it. So I use it.
07-23-2009, 10:51 AM
#18
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St. Jude Donor '05
If someone decides not to post its their decision, noone made them do it. Some just dont like others disagreeing with them or possibly being corrected. 
07-23-2009, 11:16 AM
#19
Race Director
It's threads like this that caused Duke to say "F--K It" and quit posting here. Too many people that don't know **** posting B.S. If you want the truth about oil, read one of the many articles he has written for several magazines or his many posts on the subject on the NCRS and other forums. His articles are based on fact and scientific evidence, not hear-say, rumors or what some engine builder named Bubba tells his customers.
Jim
Jim
07-23-2009, 11:42 AM
#20
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type of oil in older cars
I am the original owner of a 63 swc with 100,000 original miles. Engine uses NO oil (other than small pan leak from original gasket). I have been using good grade of ANY oil for the last 48 years without any undue engine wear. oIL PRESSURE SHOWS FINE. In my opinion this question is overated! Just my 2 cents, regards,, Abe G