The Do-it-myself '63 resto-mod project
#162
Instructor
Sorry to step on your wheel choice but those look much better. The level of detail on your car is great keep up the good work. When you are done put some miles on those tires don't keep it locked in the garage (weather permitting). If these car where built to sit in a garage the wheels would be square.
#163
Le Mans Master
That breeze you're feeling is a collective sigh of relief from all the forum members on your secondary wheel choice...whew, you had us all worried for a minute. Fabulous build...enjoying the thread immensely.
#164
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
LOL, thanks guys. Wheels are Centennial Cup for Z06, 12" rears, 10" fronts.
Everyone can breathe a little easier again because I'm not buying the chainlink steering wheel I picked out, but a billet half wrapped one.
Everyone can breathe a little easier again because I'm not buying the chainlink steering wheel I picked out, but a billet half wrapped one.
#165
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
A few show off pictures of the cowl and the hood. I must have 60+ hours into the hood alone. The frame was broken above the hinge area so needed to be separated, reinforced, glued back together etc. The reflection of the tree is pretty cool. The tree looks like it right overhead, but is actually 60+ feet away.
#166
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
a few more pics
#170
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Yeah, the lab is pretty much worthless on this project. When she's not watching me, she's snoozing.
The chrome on my gauge cluster was not good, and it had a crack in it. I read many disaster stories about rechroming the cluster, but thought there had to be someone who knew how to do it. After calling many chrome shops, Lubrandi's in PA sounded confident they could do it. Here are some before and after shots. It came out great. I later found out the trick to not ruining the camera case texture while chroming is to use a cyanide copper layer which doesn't go on as thick as an arsenic copper layer, or maybe its reversed, but something like that.
#171
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I used SEM trim black and was able to keep the camera case look.
I spent many hours trying to decide which gauges to use. Too many choices for me. This was the end result.
Ididit tilt column. I chose Wipelli black leather for the dash. Ultra soft and supple. The first upholsterer I gave my stuff too got real busy with higher end work, then took on a contract for thousands of seats at the stadium and airport, so my job was delayed indefinitely. My dad knew his dad from back in the day, but that didn't get me anywhere.
So, I move onto another guy who said he'd cover the pads in a couple days, which turned into a couple weeks. So I'm out of that guy currently in limbo looking for another upholster to do my seats, door panels and top.
I spent many hours trying to decide which gauges to use. Too many choices for me. This was the end result.
Ididit tilt column. I chose Wipelli black leather for the dash. Ultra soft and supple. The first upholsterer I gave my stuff too got real busy with higher end work, then took on a contract for thousands of seats at the stadium and airport, so my job was delayed indefinitely. My dad knew his dad from back in the day, but that didn't get me anywhere.
So, I move onto another guy who said he'd cover the pads in a couple days, which turned into a couple weeks. So I'm out of that guy currently in limbo looking for another upholster to do my seats, door panels and top.
#172
Instructor
Ken your work could beat a lot of so-called Pro shops. The dash looks great. If you don't mind how much and how long did it take to chrome your gauge surround? If you have time could you send me there contact info.
I also agree that the details in side the vents and other places most people wouldn't see make your build top-notch. You and Chris among others on this forum are driving me to pay attention to the details on my project more closely which in turn is helping me to build a car far beyond what I thought I could. Thanks for sharing your build.
I also agree that the details in side the vents and other places most people wouldn't see make your build top-notch. You and Chris among others on this forum are driving me to pay attention to the details on my project more closely which in turn is helping me to build a car far beyond what I thought I could. Thanks for sharing your build.
#173
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thank you. Librandi's http://www.carchrome.com/ $250 to repair the crack and chrome it. Took about 12 weeks for that and my vent windows ($200 ea.) and clock bezel ($70).
#174
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Here's some eye and ear candy for you all. I probably need a tune given I'm running headers, higher lift cam, and have the MAF <2" from the TB, but she still sounds good. I used Classic Chambered exhaust, 2.5" ID vettepak muffler, 20" of chamber, 20" of resonator. I like it, not the high raspy sound, just the low grumble, except when you're on the gas, then its the medium grumble.
#175
Safety Car
You have one of the cleanest engine bays i have seen yet on a restomod! Great work!
Love the intake, but I am not sure how you are ever going to get it to run right with the mass air sensor directly after two 90 degree bends and so close to the throttle body.
Love the intake, but I am not sure how you are ever going to get it to run right with the mass air sensor directly after two 90 degree bends and so close to the throttle body.
#176
Ken,
Looks great!!!
I think I will always remember the first start of mine - wait till you take the first real spin around town!
As Chris mentioned, you may have some issues with the MAF that close to the throttle and two 90 degree bends. It's going to see a lot of turbulent air and not read the air flow accurately, which will cause a number of calculation errors. I'm very lucky to have Hutters not too far away, you are going to have to do some searching to find someone with a dyno that really knows their stuff on tuning modified LSx motors. The good news is it idles pretty well and comes off a little rev pretty good, so you're not too bad.. Resist the urge to play too much, with all the changes, before getting it tuned... Wide open doesn't look at the oxygen sensors in the same way and, with your changes, you could be lean there..
I think I mentioned before, even if you don't ever end up playing with your own tunes, I would really recommend getting Hptuners just to be able to log things AND, additionally, it's set up really well to teach you by doing comparisons of tunes, before and after - you can easily go in and see everything your tuner changed.
Awesome job!!!
Rich
Looks great!!!
I think I will always remember the first start of mine - wait till you take the first real spin around town!
As Chris mentioned, you may have some issues with the MAF that close to the throttle and two 90 degree bends. It's going to see a lot of turbulent air and not read the air flow accurately, which will cause a number of calculation errors. I'm very lucky to have Hutters not too far away, you are going to have to do some searching to find someone with a dyno that really knows their stuff on tuning modified LSx motors. The good news is it idles pretty well and comes off a little rev pretty good, so you're not too bad.. Resist the urge to play too much, with all the changes, before getting it tuned... Wide open doesn't look at the oxygen sensors in the same way and, with your changes, you could be lean there..
I think I mentioned before, even if you don't ever end up playing with your own tunes, I would really recommend getting Hptuners just to be able to log things AND, additionally, it's set up really well to teach you by doing comparisons of tunes, before and after - you can easily go in and see everything your tuner changed.
Awesome job!!!
Rich
#177
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I have an air straightener before the MAF to smooth out the flow. I was under the assumption it would have to be tuned, but spoke to Street and Performance yesterday who said it should run fine without a tune given my mods. Although it didn't fit my setup, their Y- pipe has the MAF just before the TB. Their engines have run fine on the dyno with this setup.
A somewhat local shop can put the car on a chassis dyno and tune it for $800. Or, http://www.pcmforless.net/ can do a tune by mail for ~$275.
I think I'll just leave it as is for now and get the rest of the car done.
A somewhat local shop can put the car on a chassis dyno and tune it for $800. Or, http://www.pcmforless.net/ can do a tune by mail for ~$275.
I think I'll just leave it as is for now and get the rest of the car done.
#179
Melting Slicks
Here's some eye and ear candy for you all. I probably need a tune given I'm running headers, higher lift cam, and have the MAF <2" from the TB, but she still sounds good. I used Classic Chambered exhaust, 2.5" ID vettepak muffler, 20" of chamber, 20" of resonator. I like it, not the high raspy sound, just the low grumble, except when you're on the gas, then its the medium grumble.
1113141358 - YouTube
1113141358 - YouTube
Sounds so cool, nice and throaty-morly1963
#180
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: Ellicott City Maryland
Posts: 2,881
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Ken,
Awesome job! The car looks terrific and sounds even better. My concern in watching the video - at the 1:40 mark - is that you might have an issue fitting the hood. It appears that the dual horn intakes are sitting too high. Have you tried to fit the hood?
Tom
Awesome job! The car looks terrific and sounds even better. My concern in watching the video - at the 1:40 mark - is that you might have an issue fitting the hood. It appears that the dual horn intakes are sitting too high. Have you tried to fit the hood?
Tom