North of 40

I've had a leak in the Fuel pump area for a while now on my 66 327/350 engine.

I have changed the Valve cover gaskets, sealed with gasket sealer top and bottom

Changed out and resealed Fuel pump mounting plate and Fuel pump using gasket sealer, don't think any leaks coming from there

Front Seal of Intake manifold is good.

Still getting a leak from somewhere

I am frustrated with this, not a lot of oil, but drips form on the steering components and frame in this area after every drive.

Where else would you think of looking?

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

oldskydog

Check the bolt in the hole on the front of the block .

62Jeff

Yep

KC John

Depending on what year motor is in the car, have you checked the top bolt hole on the right front of the engine? There must be a bolt in there or you would have a pretty big leak, but it might be loose. This goes through into the area where the fuel pump rod rides. Maybe some thread sealer or teflon tape on the threads might help.

North of 40

Thank you,

Yes, I had pulled that bolt when I changed out the fuel pump and resealed the gaskets. I did put some sealant on that front bolt.

The Engine has approx. 54,000 original miles and is a 1966 327 350hp engine.

Any other thoughts?

Bluestripe67

I hope you have cleaned everything like a surgeon. The front crankshaft seal on the timing cover may be your culprit. As mentioned, the bolt on the front of the block just forward of the fuel pump. It goes into the pump cavity. Dennis

North of 40

I hope it's not the Front Crankshaft seal.......

I just had the Radiator and shroud out a couple of months ago and really don't feel like pulling it out again soon.

I will have a close look in that area.

How tough is it to change that seal?

Frankie the Fink

Well if you weren't so far North I'd let you borrow my kit:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=290041_0_0_

KC John

This is a messy solution but it has worked for me in the past. Put some baby powder on a rag and tap it against the block all around your valve covers and fuel pump (anywhere you think might be causing the leak) and take the car for a ride. When you come back check to see where the oil was coming from. It will show up when it hits the baby powder. The good part is you can rinse it all off after you're done.

They also sell kits to find leaks that include a black light and a product that you add to your oil that has a chemical in it that will fluoresce in the black light. These work real well and it's how I do it now instead of the baby powder method. You should be able to find one for around $50.

Mike67nv

Try cleaning the area thoroughly and then dusting with a little baby powder. I use the small trial size plastic container and just squeeze it like a pump. If the leak is coming from the area dusted with powder, it will show up pretty quickly.

North of 40

Frankie, thanks for the offer, and I agree if we were closer...

I like the low cost Baby powder idea.

Will give it a try.

65specialk

First mistake, never put gasket sealer on both sides of any gasket. The sole purpose of a gasket is to seal two mating surfaces. If you are using good quality gaskests there should never be a need for any sealer. Only exception is were the ends of your intake mate the block. It makes the gasket slip out. How about the plate/cover that bolts to the block behind the fuel pump?? Remember oil is pushed towards the rear of an engine as it goes down the road.

MikeM

If you didn't have the leak before you changed the pump, I'd suspect you have a pump that is spewing oil out the vent hole.

North of 40

That is interesting about the use of Gasket sealer.

- I always put a light film of sealer on gaskets as additional insurance, maybe this is atributing to some of my issues.

What does everyone else do when putting on Gaskets, no sealer???


- I have had this car for about 7 years and think that the leak was always there. I am slowly correcting things one step a time.

Frankie the Fink

I always, always put gasket sealer between the valve covers and the gasket...most leaks are over the TOP of these gaskets where oil is slung. I never use sealer between the gasket and head as I have solid lifters which require regular adjustment and this makes for easy removal. No leaks - ever and I probably get 10+ removal and replacement of valves covers before I replace the gasket.

MikeM

Another thing not mentioned yet is the front timing cover. If you have an aftermarket timing cover, it may not have the front pan seal lip roll welded instead of spot welded. Spot welded types can seep a leak between the spots.

Antother place for a leak is the above mentioned pan seal interface with the cork pan gasket. That should have a dab of sealer at each intersection.

RMBLROAR

Had the same problem as you a year ago but my leak was easy to find since it was pouring out. Turns out that it was the front TC crank seal. Fortunately you have a 350 HP so your HB bolt is threaded into the crank. Mine was a 300HP and no bolt. Anyway, I didn't have to remove the radiator. Just used a puller to remove the HB and gently pried out the old seal. Likewise, just lube up the outer ring of the new seal and the rubber and gently tap it into place. The TC is pretty strong (if not a Chinese replacement) and you shouldn't deform the cover.

Putting the HB back is a piece of cake with your motor since you have a taped crank. Mine I had to pound it on. No other way.....

Good luck....

Frank

65tripleblack

What are the yellow goggles for in these kits? Should fluoresce by adding the dye and a plain old blacklight. No?

Thomas66

I just went through this myself. In my case it was the fuel pump. The oil seal for the diaphragm stem had popped out of the upper housing. The pump was a replacement that I had installed last year. The oil was coming out of the weep holes.

KC John

It helps to enhance the contrast of the chemical used so you can see the leak better. You don't really need them.