Order of Assembly Question Underdash-66
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Order of Assembly Question Underdash-66
Been fartin' around all afternoon test fitting parts and have a couple remaining questions..
When should the pedal assy bracket go in?
It looks to me that from a bare firewall the correct order should be:
Jute sound deadener, pedal bracket, firewall pads.
It's real nice not having the pedal bracket in there.....
Also, on the Paragon pads I have, some of the holes are not cut out to match the black cardboard (fuse block...). Should I trim those out before I mount the pads? Wondering because some are trimmed out and some are not.
Anybody else find the Paragon Jute pads a real puzzle?
When should the pedal assy bracket go in?
It looks to me that from a bare firewall the correct order should be:
Jute sound deadener, pedal bracket, firewall pads.
It's real nice not having the pedal bracket in there.....
Also, on the Paragon pads I have, some of the holes are not cut out to match the black cardboard (fuse block...). Should I trim those out before I mount the pads? Wondering because some are trimmed out and some are not.
Anybody else find the Paragon Jute pads a real puzzle?
Last edited by IGO200; 11-17-2012 at 11:50 PM.
#3
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here is what I think. the jute padding, then the fire wall pad. then the pedal assembly. I would trim out for the fuse block, and make sure all the holes line up
for the bird cage bar. depends on if its a St. Louis body or A.O. Smith. St. Louis it was green zinc chromate then around the trim and vin tags it was blacked out. A.O. it was green zinc with no black out and body color over spray at the ends
for the bird cage bar. depends on if its a St. Louis body or A.O. Smith. St. Louis it was green zinc chromate then around the trim and vin tags it was blacked out. A.O. it was green zinc with no black out and body color over spray at the ends
#5
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It's been a while since I looked at one but dosent the cardboard pad have a cut out for the pedal assembly
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The tech guy at Paragon says that the pedal bracket sits on top of the cardboard, but I mocked that up and it just doesn't seem right to me......
#8
Safety Car
On a '67 I did......
The pedal box can be in before the firewall insulation. The repros are not perfect. You may have to trim the black cardboard around the pedal box flanges. I had to.
1st pic is before. You can barely see the edge of the flange.
2nd pic is after with the new FW insulation.
The backing was blue so I cut pieces from the original for the edges of the holes so it looked less "repro"!
The pedal box can be in before the firewall insulation. The repros are not perfect. You may have to trim the black cardboard around the pedal box flanges. I had to.
1st pic is before. You can barely see the edge of the flange.
2nd pic is after with the new FW insulation.
The backing was blue so I cut pieces from the original for the edges of the holes so it looked less "repro"!
#9
Le Mans Master
The "tech guy" is wrong. The flange sits against the fiberglass and the cardboard sits over the flange. I just installed both in the past month and didn't have to modify the insulation at all.
Jim
#10
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The four nuts that go on the four studs on the forward end of the pedal support (two for the support, two for the master cylinder mounting) need to torque up solid with no residual torque loss, so you don't want the padding or pressboard in that joint. If you look in the Assembly Manual (UPC 5, sheet A2), there's no dash mat in that joint.
#12
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Lower insulation or dash harness first?
Hoping someone's still following here...
I'm installing both lower insulation and the dash harness/gauge cluster but since I didn't have any insulation to begin with don't know which to install first.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Glenn
I'm installing both lower insulation and the dash harness/gauge cluster but since I didn't have any insulation to begin with don't know which to install first.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Glenn
#13
Safety Car
Glenn, Firewall Insulation first as it'll be easier on your back without the instrument cluster there, and easier to route electrical and plumbing through the insulation holes after it's is in. Remember, pedal box before insulation too.
Rich
Rich
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I was thinking the same thing re:access but noticed pics here and there which looked like bulk wires from bulkhead/fuse box were behind the ridgid covering, esp those going to dimmer switch. Guess I can still run them behind if I don't secure the insulation before doing the wiring.
Fyi, I'm using the fake plastic covered pieces v. original cardboard.
Glenn
#15
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Thanks Rich
I was thinking the same thing re:access but noticed pics here and there which looked like bulk wires from bulkhead/fuse box were behind the ridgid covering, esp those going to dimmer switch. Guess I can still run them behind if I don't secure the insulation before doing the wiring.
Fyi, I'm using the fake plastic covered pieces v. original cardboard.
Glenn
I was thinking the same thing re:access but noticed pics here and there which looked like bulk wires from bulkhead/fuse box were behind the ridgid covering, esp those going to dimmer switch. Guess I can still run them behind if I don't secure the insulation before doing the wiring.
Fyi, I'm using the fake plastic covered pieces v. original cardboard.
Glenn
#17
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Well I've put most if back together: dash harness, cluster, insulation, lastly the pedal assembly. I've run out of steam and still have the steering column, wiper motor, hookup a few wire odds and ends and then the glove box. I need a helper for the column so it'll have to wait.
Overall I can safely say I will never ever do this again. EVER!
Overall I can safely say I will never ever do this again. EVER!
#18
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Dude, is that collapsible steering column tube broken in half?
That does not look right.
That does not look right.