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Order of Assembly Question Underdash-66

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Old 11-17-2012, 07:40 PM
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IGO200
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Default Order of Assembly Question Underdash-66

Been fartin' around all afternoon test fitting parts and have a couple remaining questions..
When should the pedal assy bracket go in?
It looks to me that from a bare firewall the correct order should be:
Jute sound deadener, pedal bracket, firewall pads.
It's real nice not having the pedal bracket in there.....
Also, on the Paragon pads I have, some of the holes are not cut out to match the black cardboard (fuse block...). Should I trim those out before I mount the pads? Wondering because some are trimmed out and some are not.
Anybody else find the Paragon Jute pads a real puzzle?

Last edited by IGO200; 11-17-2012 at 11:50 PM.
Old 11-18-2012, 10:50 AM
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tt
Also,
Is the birdcage crossbar usually green zinc chromate towards the center and body color towards the left and right ends or......
Old 11-18-2012, 11:15 AM
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here is what I think. the jute padding, then the fire wall pad. then the pedal assembly. I would trim out for the fuse block, and make sure all the holes line up


for the bird cage bar. depends on if its a St. Louis body or A.O. Smith. St. Louis it was green zinc chromate then around the trim and vin tags it was blacked out. A.O. it was green zinc with no black out and body color over spray at the ends
Old 11-18-2012, 02:41 PM
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IGO200
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Thanks for the great info on the bar.
So on the pad, you're saying the cardboard part of pad gets pinched between the bracket and the firewall?
Old 11-18-2012, 02:57 PM
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It's been a while since I looked at one but dosent the cardboard pad have a cut out for the pedal assembly
Old 11-18-2012, 03:48 PM
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It has cutouts for the mount bolts but the flanges would sit on top of the cardboard.
Old 11-20-2012, 12:19 PM
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IGO200
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The tech guy at Paragon says that the pedal bracket sits on top of the cardboard, but I mocked that up and it just doesn't seem right to me......
Old 11-20-2012, 01:20 PM
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rich5962
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On a '67 I did......

The pedal box can be in before the firewall insulation. The repros are not perfect. You may have to trim the black cardboard around the pedal box flanges. I had to.

1st pic is before. You can barely see the edge of the flange.

2nd pic is after with the new FW insulation.

The backing was blue so I cut pieces from the original for the edges of the holes so it looked less "repro"!
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by IGO200
The tech guy at Paragon says that the pedal bracket sits on top of the cardboard, but I mocked that up and it just doesn't seem right to me......

The "tech guy" is wrong. The flange sits against the fiberglass and the cardboard sits over the flange. I just installed both in the past month and didn't have to modify the insulation at all.

Jim
Old 11-20-2012, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1snake
The "tech guy" is wrong. The flange sits against the fiberglass and the cardboard sits over the flange. I just installed both in the past month and didn't have to modify the insulation at all.

Jim
The four nuts that go on the four studs on the forward end of the pedal support (two for the support, two for the master cylinder mounting) need to torque up solid with no residual torque loss, so you don't want the padding or pressboard in that joint. If you look in the Assembly Manual (UPC 5, sheet A2), there's no dash mat in that joint.
Old 11-20-2012, 05:39 PM
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Thank's guys. That makes perfect sense and would have been my final choice, right or "wrong".
I shall proceed......
Old 10-31-2014, 09:48 AM
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Default Lower insulation or dash harness first?

Hoping someone's still following here...

I'm installing both lower insulation and the dash harness/gauge cluster but since I didn't have any insulation to begin with don't know which to install first.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Glenn
Old 10-31-2014, 10:07 AM
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Glenn, Firewall Insulation first as it'll be easier on your back without the instrument cluster there, and easier to route electrical and plumbing through the insulation holes after it's is in. Remember, pedal box before insulation too.

Rich
Old 10-31-2014, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rich5962
Glenn, Firewall Insulation first as it'll be easier on your back without the instrument cluster there, and easier to route electrical and plumbing through the insulation holes after it's is in. Remember, pedal box before insulation too.

Rich
Thanks Rich
I was thinking the same thing re:access but noticed pics here and there which looked like bulk wires from bulkhead/fuse box were behind the ridgid covering, esp those going to dimmer switch. Guess I can still run them behind if I don't secure the insulation before doing the wiring.
Fyi, I'm using the fake plastic covered pieces v. original cardboard.
Glenn
Old 11-11-2014, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by gschlarman
Thanks Rich
I was thinking the same thing re:access but noticed pics here and there which looked like bulk wires from bulkhead/fuse box were behind the ridgid covering, esp those going to dimmer switch. Guess I can still run them behind if I don't secure the insulation before doing the wiring.
Fyi, I'm using the fake plastic covered pieces v. original cardboard.
Glenn
Oh yeah, and pedals and support must be out to put harness in?
Old 11-11-2014, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by gschlarman
Oh yeah, and pedals and support must be out to put harness in?
IIRC, no.......harness can go in after pedal assy.
Old 11-12-2014, 01:49 PM
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Well I've put most if back together: dash harness, cluster, insulation, lastly the pedal assembly. I've run out of steam and still have the steering column, wiper motor, hookup a few wire odds and ends and then the glove box. I need a helper for the column so it'll have to wait.

Overall I can safely say I will never ever do this again. EVER!
Old 11-12-2014, 08:37 PM
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Dude, is that collapsible steering column tube broken in half?

That does not look right.
Old 11-12-2014, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Rhino
Dude, is that collapsible steering column tube broken in half?

That does not look right.
Good eye!

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