SDVette

Greetings,

I'm partially through this challenging project.

See below for a photo of my original tank hookups. Both ends of the "upper fuel line" have threaded nuts on my original. My original fuel sender/pickup also had the mating threads, as does the main fuel line (on the frame rail).

The new parts (sender and upper fuel line) do not have the nuts. From the looks of the assembly manual, it looks like clamps and rubber hose are used at these junctions.

It seems the threads is a much better solution. I'm thinking of re-using the OLD upper fuel line, allowing me to connect to the frame fuel line with the threaded connection - just wish the new sender/pickup had a threaded end..

Or am I missing something obvious here? Thanks.

Also, it looks like my vent tube takes a very odd path from the vent to the gas door. Thinking I will re-route this towards the front (as shown in the AIM), as this will fit better under the cover. As others have found, the new tank sits higher than the original (even after much 'encouragement' from a dead blow hammar!)

Fred

EDIT: After some additional research, it appears that my 61 has tank hardware from a 60.. The 60 had the hard attach points, 61/62 had soft (at least that's what the vendors say). I think the venders have it wrong.. the early 61's used hard attachment points, correct?

Frankie the Fink

I have a very late '61 (about 100 cars from the last one built) and no pictures of the gas tank so I'm not much help here.

I'd be tempted to go with the threaded connections just the same.

Don't forget to run an extra ground wire for the 'dancing fuel gauge when you step
on the brakes' classic C1 problem! Takes 5 minutes and can keep you from doing it
later on.

Redbird

I don't think there ever was a hard coupling of the lines. See Section 8.00 page 3.00 in the AIM. Should be the same as 62s.

Frankie the Fink

I'm fairly sure there was a threaded connection on some years of later C1s. I can't recall which years -- it's come up several times here on the forum.

gbvette62

You are correct, 61 was a split year. The threaded 56-60 type sending unit was used for part of the year. At some point, the 61-62 sending unit (designed for use with a push on hose) was fazed into production. I don't know when the change over occurred, but both types of sending unit, were used on 61's.

Some vendors do incorrectly list the sending units as 56-60 and 61-62, but both Corvette Central and Paragon, correctly list them as 56-61E and 61L-62.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050x

https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...ding-unit.aspx

Pilot Dan

The GM fuel senders sold in the 70's by Chevy did not have the fitting and were considered replacements for all the years. When I installed one in my 59, I liked the idea of keeping the fuel lines stock with original threaded ends, so I just removed and brazed the old fitting on to the replacement sender. Not a big deal. Pilot Dan

SDVette

Yep, I'm beginning to think I should have bought the 60 AIM instead of the 61! BTW, my VIN is 10867S102794, which C1 Registry tells me was built Nov 14, 1960.

Thanks guys. It looks like the 56-61E units are 14 ohms, and the 61L-62 units are 30 ohms. That's another difference. I measured the unit I have, and it's 30 ohms. My original sender was non-functional (aka rusted to death), so I can't measure it.

Were the gauges different or did they use another resistor in the circuit to make them read correctly?

JohnZ

All '56-'62 sending units were 0-30 ohms.

SDVette

Thanks John. So the Corvette Central website (link above) is incorrect then.

JohnZ

Yes, it is.

69ttop502

Said it before but will say it again, John you are the best. Can't imagine this place without you!

Bill

SDVette

Well, I'm almost done with this BEAR of a project.

The new tank is in, sender, vent, fuel line, and filler are all connected.
WCBF has been rebuilt and is installed. New throttle linkage is on the way from zip.

Also changed my fuel pump - that turned into a nasty little project of it's own! Difficult to get the new pump installed while keeping the lifter in place (yes, I tried grease... No, my block does not have a bolt to hold it).

For future searchers: Getting the new gas tank in the proper position was every bit a pain as others said it would be! I had to beat it with a dead-blow hammer out of the car, and again while in the car. Whoever said their gas tank looked as if it was in a roll-over accident after installation was right - mine too! This would be SO MUCH EASIER if the repo tanks were 1/4 inch smaller instead of a 1/4 inch bigger than the originals!

Hoping to be able to fire it up after a few more hours work. I will post photos and a final summary.

Fred

Frankie the Fink

Sounds like you are on the home stretch.
EVEN SO! Do the initial start up in a well ventilated area (outside if possible) with a fire extinguisher within arm's reach.

Steve59

Absolutely...1/4 inch and the job would be 1000% easier.

SDVette

Promised photos are here.

New tank, straps (actually fixed and painted the old ones), fuel pickup, sender, fuel lines, fuel pump, carb rebuild, choke, and choke tube. FINALLY DONE!

Took a bit of cranking to 'prime the pump', but it fired up beautifully! Car runs and idles MUCH better now with the rebuilt carb and good fuel supply.

Thanks for all the input/advise/tips!

Fred

rustylugnuts

I don't see any gas tank strap gaskets, make sure you use them. They prevent excessive vibration of straps that eventually cut into tank over time. Can use 3/16" thick x 2’’ wide adhesive weather stripping or a bicycle inner tube between straps & tank on the edges of the tank top & bottom will work fine.

rustylugnuts

SDVette

Rusty - I don't think I've seen any photos or AIM reference to this..???? Are you talking about the tar paper-like strips that go under the tank? Or something else?

There were no such gaskets on the original setup.. nor on anyone else's photos, unless I'm missing something?

wmf62

none on mine either except for the ones under the tank
Bill

rustylugnuts

I personally like the added protection, and if it takes a hit one must evaluate the benefits. I look at it as safety, same as the battery disconnect and fire extinguisher.

rustylugnuts

Pilot Dan

You are not missing anything. That tank is not moving at all once the hold down straps are fastened in. You are good to go! Pilot Dan