davidf59

Frankie - this is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thanks!!!

SpartyGW

Frank, this was good. Your diagram will really help someone. I'm not a big fan of a bunch of sticky topics but this should be one.

mechron

Everythig you said is right, But rare, maybe now but not in the 70s with ford cars, they all had fusible links between the battery and the solinoid on the fenderwell. I made bucks replacing those fuseable links, Just pull the link wire and if the insultion stretches the fusible link is blown...

Frankie the Fink

That is very true.

I meant to add somewhere above that you can preserve the original black ammeter harness wire by either: a) soldering the fuse holder lead to that original harness lead ring terminal and putting a ring terminal on the other end to go on the ammeter connector (you can desolder it later and preserve the original wiring if need be, or, b) crimping a ring terminal on EACH end of the fuse holder and use a small nut & bolt to connect one end to the original harness wiring's ring terminal. This last method is a little messier IMO but will work. You have to VERY carefully insulate everything in either case. A DOUBLE layer of heat shrinkable tubing is best.

Seems many folks don't want to add this extra protection out of fear of butchering up their dash harness and that doesn't have to be the case. The clock/lighter connectors are easy and male/female spade lug connectors can be crimped onto the fuse holder leads that work perfectly for those circuits.

For a couple of hours effort on a Saturday morning you can make a C1 a much safer car to operate.

Steve59

I took FTF's advice years ago and fused those circuits, but I also put in a power antenna and fused that, and converted my windshield washer to a power pump and fused that circuit. Got a lot of fuses under the dash but was greatfull when I blew the main 30 amp fuse when I was playing with the cigarette lighter. Also, I prefer fuses that light up when blown, much easier to see under the dash.

rustylugnuts

I take my profession seriously and when spotting a safety flaw (my call ) I'm compelled to see it through. I would hate to see any car, get fried or allow someone to get hurt because I didn't step in.

I'm positive that Frank was thinking he was giving his best and didn't see any safety flaw. His intentions were just, but not completely sound. This was my judgment call in providing an alternative safer method.

Be safe!

rustylugnuts

vettefred

Thanks for the postings Frank....I have copied the information and I know I still have to fuse my starter solenoid circuit. Good information!



Fred

Frankie the Fink

Read the middle of the first paragraph on this page and then just buy this tech guide from a very respected automobile electronics vendor if any of you want to know the rational for fusible links over regular fuses. It's not just me saying this:

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tb-1.shtml

In nearly every post where I provide advice I include technical references, quotes from the ST-12 or pictures from the AIM, schematics, or stuff from other authoritative sources and often pictures of how I incorporated any mods into my car. I don't advise anybody to just buy a 'pig in a poke' because I say something works.

So - you pays your money and you takes your choice !!

SpartyGW

I have that book and along with the fact that the General believed in fusible links to protect high load circuits it's made a believer out of me. I don't know what that other guy's deal is.

Waffle

Thanks Frankie for doing what I could not... I suggested a awhile ago that a one stop post for fusible points would be extremely helpful and you nailed it! A smoking dash started my body of restoration over a year ago... scared the crap out of me! Thanks!

Buggles

Thanks Frank. I have a question about the black wire on the ammeter. In the '56 and I am guessing '55 and '57 there are twoo black leads off the ammeter, the one to the starter solenoid and the other goes off to form part of the negative side of circuit. Should both of these be fused (together?) or just the one to the starter solenoid?
Regards,
Craig

mrruffhouser

Gee, Only 3rd in your class. I'm surprised you mentioned that.
Why do you seem to jump on most postings and tel all what a knowledgable guy you are? Then you proceed to attack their post.
I'd like to see your solution to this problem.
Merry Christmas to all.
Roger

JohnZ

There are two black wires on that ammeter terminal - one is the main power feed from the cable stud on the starter solenoid (which should have a fuse or fusible link at the solenoid), and the other black wire goes from the ammeter to the "BAT" terminal on the ignition switch.

59 navy

Good photos Frankie and advice from other members. I'm ready to install fuses and wonder if there is a source to replace some of the three and four place connectors (especially the ignition switch connector shown in Frankie's photo) I also don't like the way that I've spliced several ground wires together. Can't do 500.00 on a body harness. 59 navy

Frankie the Fink

Perhaps Lectric Limited or Mad Electric sell connectors separately. You will have to call to find out.

Plasticman

Frank,

In the past (around 2002), Lectric Limited would not sell connectors separately.

John

mrg

A few months ago having a fused circuit saved the day for the wiring harness in my car. After installing a Pertronics 3 module in the dizzy, with everything ready to go.............turn the ignition key.................nothing happens?. No headlights, nada. Check the fuse and it's blown.

Turns out one of the two wires that goes to the Pertronics unit got pinched ever so slightly when the unit was being tightened in place; enough so to break the insulation and short the wire to ground. No doubt a significant portion of the wiring harness would have been ruined had there been no fuse protection. The ammeter, clock, and lighter all have fuse protection, also.

Instead of cutting directly into the wire circuit to be fused, all the fuse holders were installed using appropriate same style connectors (ring, male/female spade, etc.) on the wiring ends of the those fuse holders. The fuse connector section was connected to the end of the original factory wire terminal connector, then onto the terminal end of the solenoid, gauge, etc.

Fusible link or fuse, it's definitely with the time to install either form of circuit protection.

rustylugnuts

"Only 3rd in your class". It's the truth, missed second by .2 and first by .7 it was very close."Why do you seem to jump on most postings" First I look at each post as a right of free speech that anyone who cares to make a comment should if he or she wishes, and If you read the entire thread you then can clearly see I was stating my background as Frank did previous post, this was a reply to establish education in the field. "Then you proceed to attack their post" Again if you read the entire thread in order you can understand, and last I like to use the word reply to, rather than attack, but you have that right of free speech as everyone else.

Happy New Year
rustylugnuts

rustylugnuts

What was the Megohmeter/high-pot tested on the insulation of the wires? Was there any leakage on fifty year old wires? Was this considered? I have! I could go on, but it's like the TV commercial, "Why would you play as a doctor, you wouldn't want him doing your job". So play doctor, I'm done, don't have the time to rebuttal on all phases of electric.

Wish you luck, happy New Years
rustylugnuts

stafftech

Frankie, hoping you can answer a question for me, looking for shrinkable insulation at the local auto parts store and all they seem to have is heat shrink tubing which I am assuming is not the same, correct? If it isn't the same any ideas on where I can find shrinkable insulation ? It doesn't come on any of the fusible links they have available either.

Also for the inline fuses, do I need to use the same rules for wire gage (2 sizes smaller) that I need for the fusible link?

Thanks, Dan