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Old 12-10-2012, 05:12 PM
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mdub
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Default do your brakes...

This is what everyone tells me when i tell them i have a survivor '63. It isn't a barn find '63, it has been maintained throughout the years, so I really dont know what they mean.

Here's my interpretations:
  • Check your pads? Okay, done that. they're fine.
  • Check fluid levels? okay, looks good.
  • Replace fluid? Yeah, maybe but it still looks like Coors Light and not Shiner Bock so it should be okay.
  • Rebuild the Wheel Cylinder? um.. maybe, but but really? Do these things fail slowly or catastrophically ?
  • All of the above?

What do you think they mean?
Old 12-10-2012, 05:22 PM
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Nowhere Man
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How does the car stop. That will tell you what you need to fix.
Old 12-10-2012, 05:28 PM
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woodsdesign
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I would be looking at the brake lines. Especially the main line from the front to back. The original lines are steel and tend to rust. Expecially in a 50 year old car. The other items are routine maitanence. In a single master cylinder car if you loose a brake line you will have no brakes at all. So, I would think that is what they mean. JMO
Old 12-10-2012, 05:53 PM
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Dennis Beck
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You also have rubber lines on all four corners to the calipers. They will only last so long also.

Dennis
Old 12-10-2012, 06:07 PM
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mdub
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign
I would be looking at the brake lines. Especially the main line from the front to back. The original lines are steel and tend to rust. Expecially in a 50 year old car. The other items are routine maitanence. In a single master cylinder car if you loose a brake line you will have no brakes at all. So, I would think that is what they mean. JMO
forgive me if this sounds stupid or ignorant, can i see the rust from the outside of the line?
Old 12-10-2012, 06:12 PM
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It's going to rust from the inside out. So if you see rust anywhere replace it.
Old 12-10-2012, 06:22 PM
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Bluestripe67
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The rubber line leading to the back of the brake backing place, which leads to the wheel cylinder can deteriorate internally. If they are original you might want to replace them. Dennis
Old 12-10-2012, 06:49 PM
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woodsdesign
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Originally Posted by mdub
forgive me if this sounds stupid or ignorant, can i see the rust from the outside of the line?
On my 65 I had pin holes in the main line. It leaked and the frame absorbed it. So I didn't see any fluid on the floor. I would replace it just for maitanence.
Old 12-10-2012, 08:31 PM
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MikeM
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign
On my 65 I had pin holes in the main line. It leaked and the frame absorbed it. So I didn't see any fluid on the floor. I would replace it just for maitanence.
My experience, my '65 corroded UNDER the wrap around brake line clips on the frame rail. Couldn't see it. It just blew, all of a sudden. Kinda' strange really as the car was only on the road for seven years and then not driven again for almost 30 years.

If the wheel cylinders are dry and not weeping on the outside, the car stops straight, I wouldn't do anything to it except have that main brake line on my list to replace.
Old 12-10-2012, 08:57 PM
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mdub
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Originally Posted by MikeM
My experience, my '65 corroded UNDER the wrap around brake line clips on the frame rail. Couldn't see it. It just blew, all of a sudden. Kinda' strange really as the car was only on the road for seven years and then not driven again for almost 30 years.

If the wheel cylinders are dry and not weeping on the outside, the car stops straight, I wouldn't do anything to it except have that main brake line on my list to replace.
The car stops strait. It was pulling to the left, but after i turned the front drums it got a lot better.
Old 12-10-2012, 09:33 PM
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Dan Hampton
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Originally Posted by Dennis Beck
You also have rubber lines on all four corners to the calipers. They will only last so long also.

Dennis
This is a '63--no calipers.
Old 12-10-2012, 09:55 PM
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claf
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A few years ago I put my '62 away for the winter, everything OK. On the first spring start, while still in the rental space, popped the main front to back line. Where the line runs through the clips is a rust spot waiting to explode, car in use or not. Bob
Old 12-10-2012, 10:49 PM
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Also make sure your "Emergency" brake is in good working condition. If you do have a major fluid leak it will be your only means of stopping. Even though the fluid looks good in the master cylinder you should bleed some out at the wheel cylinders and look at the condition there. You can also check the wheel cyls by peeling back the outer seals and check for fluid leaks. It still would be a good idea to flush the system with new fluid as preventive maintenance.
Old 12-10-2012, 11:15 PM
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jimmies63
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign
I would be looking at the brake lines. Especially the main line from the front to back. The original lines are steel and tend to rust. Expecially in a 50 year old car. The other items are routine maitanence. In a single master cylinder car if you loose a brake line you will have no brakes at all. So, I would think that is what they mean. JMO
So go for a dual master cylinder and or consider front disks. Also, plan on simply running new lines to the rear. The originals are hidden on top of the frame and after 50 years, can you trust them?

When my car comes back, I will likely undertake to start replacing the brakes.
Old 12-11-2012, 10:37 AM
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mdub
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Originally Posted by jimmies63
So go for a dual master cylinder and or consider front disks. Also, plan on simply running new lines to the rear. The originals are hidden on top of the frame and after 50 years, can you trust them?

When my car comes back, I will likely undertake to start replacing the brakes.
I like the idea of a dual master cylinder, but the original has held up for 50 years. I don't push the car performance wise, so making that change is on the edge of unnecessary for me.
Old 12-11-2012, 10:55 AM
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Rich Yanulis
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Originally Posted by mdub
I like the idea of a dual master cylinder, but the original has held up for 50 years. I don't push the car performance wise, so making that change is on the edge of unnecessary for me.
Unnecessary for me as well......I also own a Very Original '63.
My 50 year old master cylinder and drum brakes function perfectly for my use.

I did however make only one upgrade that I felt was prudent, by replacing the original rubber portions of the brake lines.
Old 12-11-2012, 11:03 AM
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Yeah, you don't really need to check your pads. Body mount pads need to be looked at about every 20 years.

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Old 12-11-2012, 11:27 AM
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Pilot Dan
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FWIW The 63-65 drum brakes work perfectly IF they are properly serviced and the ENTIRE BRAKE SYSTEM is maintained. The drum brakes get a bad rap and people rush to convert to disks lots of times because they service the system piece meal and are disappointed with the results. The big items are the steel lines and hoses with regard to a total failure. The drums in my 64 stop straight and fast. If you drive the car for pleasure and don't need routine 100 mph stops, they are more than fine . They are also a lot less maintenance than calipers and no run out issues and caliper leaks to deal with. Pilot Dan
Old 12-11-2012, 11:52 AM
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I'm keeping the drums, no question about that.
Old 12-12-2012, 12:53 PM
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Thanks for ya'll responses. I'm tearing down the front end for a bushing job in the next few weeks. I'll get a chance to look deeper into the brake lines and flush the system. Now I have a better idea what to look for.


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