drrigg

I'm working on my wife's new '64 and have the harmonic balancer off but think I've run into a problem. Everything I've read about the small block Chevy says that the harmonic balancer is bolted to the end of the crank but mine was simply pressed on. The end of the crank has a small shallow hole in the end but no discern able threads. Is this normal or did her dad snap off a bolt that I now need to have machined out?

jerhofer

This is the bolt and heavy washer that holds the harmonic balancer on.



This is the tool used to press on the balancer.

Vet65te

The lower horse engines (250/300) didn't have a drilled and tapped crank snout like the higher horse engines, the harmonic balancer was only pressed on.
Mike T.

jerhofer

Now I know. Thanks.

Vet65te

Having an undrilled snout, like on my 300 horse 65 Coupe, means it's a royal pain getting the balancer back on if you want to replace the timing cover seal with the engine in the car. To the OP, check out some of the older archived threads and maybe someone does have a fairly easy way around this problem.
Mike T.

Pop Chevy

Best way , drill and tap. Other way block of wood and BFH.

MikeM

Yes, as a matter of fact they do. Just get a two pound ball pein hammer and bump the balancer back on the crankshaft taking care to strike it next to the hub cneter and not on the outer ring.

When the sound of the hammer changes, you have bottomed out and time to bolt the pulley on. No need to get panties in a wad over this simple procedure.

KC John

Throw the balancer in the oven for 20 minutes on 250º and use welding gloves to put it back on and tap it home. You can also pound it with a big hammer, but some people have a problem doing it that way. Some use a block of wood to keep from peening up the balancer. Not a big deal to reinstall, but as mentioned some feel it's necessary to drill and tap the snout. Most of the people that do that have high HP engines or are a little paranoid.

midyearvette

my trick for this is to use 3 soft sacrificial bolts tightened in the 3 holes and pound on them
once you are done, simply un screw them and have a beer......

or have a beer first!

wonderful

DO NOT put the balancer in the oven. The heat will burn off the rubber insulation and the timing cover seal. Either tap a hole in the crank shaft or bang on the balancer with a block of wood and a small sledge hammer.

drrigg

Thank you so much everyone for all the good info. It's a bit startling that this is a press fit part because of ONLY 300 horsepower in the low power engines.

KC John

Never had it hurt one in the past, where do you get your info?

mechron

Sorry KC, i agree with wonderful. Not only may you damage the rubber on the balancer and the TC seal, but what about flat rate in old vette shops like mine,"we have no stinking badges" (or no ovens) After replacing those aluminum nylon timing chains that failed so often in C2s, with the rad out we as wonderful said would just pound the damper onto the crank with a 4 pound sledge and a wooden block until it stopped (the damper crank snout was solidly aginst the crank TC gear and the pulleys lined up...

mechron

Look in any Motors or Chiltons, NO OVEN IS MENTIONED. The rubber between the inner and outer damper between the inner and outer ring slips on these old cars, thus throwing off the position of the timing marks on the outer ring. I have seen as much as 50 degrees. Time for damper replacement...

If you can not corfirm TDC on your old damper replace it, find TDC by the positive stop method and mark the new damper or note if it is off.

Even with new dampers the timing marks can be off slightly.

Again, find true TDC, note any variations and set up the engine from there...

wonderful

Experience.

mspry

I just did mine in about an hour on my 64. Went to the Auto store and rented a puller/installer and yes I did it while the engine was in the car. Just remove the fan and use a hollow pipe over your ratchet when it starts to strain your back.

vettura

Hello guys. I too have a balancer wobble on my 66. Before I do anything I'm reading all I can on the subject and I appreciate your informed suggestions. It's obvious that the harmonic balancer was pressed on at the factory. What I'd like to know is how does the factory recommend that it gets re=installed?. Hitting it into position makes sense but doesn't that hurt the rest of the crankshaft? Wonderful's suggestion of heating the balancer sounds like it could help, although I'm not sure it should be that hot. after all. the engine DOES heat up anyway. I also like the Idea of tapping a bolt hole...any suggestion as to the size of the tap? Thank you all in advance. Vettura

Kerrmudgeon

A block of 2x4 hardwood accross the face of the balancer, a large hammer, and a light coat of oil on the outside to slide into the seal easily. (Make sure the key way is in the proper position and doesn't slip out when installing). Then tap evenly until it bottoms out (the sound will change). BUT, it's always good insurance to tap and drill the nose for a safety bolt on the lower horsepower cranks.

PS. no heat is required for this, especially not a hot 'rubber softening' oven!

Tom454

FYI GM Service Manual...

donbayers

Excellent information.

I'm doing the same thing. To the OP, I'm sending my original 63 finned HB to Damper Doctor for rework. Mine was able to be pulled off the snout of the crack by hand. Temp replacement with a similar one in dia but not as thick.

Any way, my crank is not drilled. Could anyone supply exact info for doing this and what parts it takes. Keep in mind my engine is still in car.

Also, what type of pulled will I need to take the existing HB off the crank?

any help greatly appreciated.

OP, the charge from Damper doctor is $130 for mine. Hope that helps.