1966STER

My 66 (non power steering) has been fitted with a Poly Front End Kit from Vette Brakes and I want to replace it with original type parts.

The parts I want to replace are the: Idler Arm, Tie Rods and the (4) Tie Rod End Assemblies which are all available from LIC.

Note: the Pitman Arm and Steering Center Link Rod are GM and appear to be in excellent condition.

I have never done this work before so my questions are this:

1. Can I do this work with the car ontop of blocks with weight on all wheels or do I need to have the front wheels drop freely with the car supported by the frame with jacks?

2. Is a Pitman Arm Puller easiest way to remove the tie rod and idler arms whereas I do not have any air powered tools?

Thank you,
Rabvet

magicv8

1 jack stands, wheels hanging.
After installing a frames with new rubber bushings, do no torque down the aframe nuts until the car is on the floor again.

2 so easy with pullers, both for pitman tie rod ends, and ball joints

Bluestripe67

Something is confusing in your post. You don't say anything about the "A" arms, just bushings, so I'm assuming you are replacing the poly bushings in the "A" arms? If so, you will need a spring compressor, and it can be a dangerous job if you don't understand all the mechanics involved. Tell us a little more. Dennis

1966STER

You're absolutely right Dennis ----------- there are poly bushings in both "A" arms as well (uppers and lowers). I've been hesitant about getting to that level of involvement (A arm removal) with no prior experience.

Having said that It just makes sense to go all the way and remove both A arms and replace the poly bushings at the same time whereas I would be halfway there replacing the other items I orignally metioned. These poly bushings are driving me crazy with sqeeking noices and they have to go ------ also this would be a good opportunity to replace the ball joints with the correct riveted ones as well.
I'm aware of the danger in removing the springs so I will do my homework to incorporate a safe technique. ----- note: the car has the F41 suspension so the springs are HD.

Thank you !

Boyan

Everything can be replaced with jackstands and the car on the ground. Get rid of the poly A-arm bushings. New correct style balljoints with correct riveting. And make sure you get the correct style upper bushings which protrude rubber about 1/4 of an inch.

The correct thin part numbered idle arm is also available in reproduction, with no zerk fitting.

You will be much happier with the ride and it will look original.

You could also go crazy and find NOS GM balljoints!!!!!!

Good luck,
Boyan

magicv8

That depends on the springs. Factory BB springs are shorter. I had my aframes off twice. After the first spring, it was obvious that the spring compressor was not needed.

1966STER

Boyan,
In addition to components listed above from Long Island Corvette, I was planning on getting the complete set of A arm asemblies (upper & lower) from America's Finest which comes complete with riveted ball joints and hopefully the correct bushings you mentioned ----- they are advertised as NCRS correct?
Thank you!

VetteRed1965

Just did this. I went with moog parts from advance auto. Everything comes in the kits if you want bolts. You will have to order the rivits. Advance also has the a arm bushing tool and the coil spring compressor ( make sure the spring compressor has the arms that can be unbolted, to get it out once you install the coil spring). Count the number of shims before taking the a arms off, this will keep your alignment good.A strap threw the coil before removal will keep it from flying out. Put a jack under your lower a arm and lower to remove
the coil with the help of the coil spring compressor.
After removing the a arms, Spray them with a PB blaster or equivlent. (My first took one hour until I used PB blaster). The second one ,with PB blaster and a little heat from a propane torch and they almost fell out.
I also agree with putting the car on the floor before tighting the pivot bushing washer.

Boyan

NCRS does not endorse or approve any parts or makers. The correct style ball joints from Americas finest and other vendors are the closest to the original GM style with the unthreaded portion extending past the threaded portion. There are not 100% like original, but as close as you can get. I usually deduct 1 point when I judge for them, not a big deal.

Americas finest does a great job in riveting and installing the bushings. Just make sure to paint the upper part of the ball joint a "natural" color or strip the black paint off them when they are shipped to you. Mike usually paint the whole thing black and ball joint should be natural.

Boyan