C1 reproduction f/glass thickness
03-26-2013, 02:48 AM
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C1 reproduction f/glass thickness
Has anyone ever experienced repro body fibreglass being quite a bit thicker than original? Is this the norm? The front end top section of my '60 was replaced a few years ago after an accident. Now that its painted, I'm assembling everything and finding a lot of things aren't fitting simply because the f/glass is too thick; w/s washer nozzles, wiper mounts and the windshield mount bolts were just BARELY long enough!
Is this a common problem and if so, how does everybody else deal with it? I ground away the f/g underneath just to try and make one of the washer nozzles fit! I guess there's not much else that can be done but...?
Any comments or suggestions are appreciated; thanks in advance!
Gord
Is this a common problem and if so, how does everybody else deal with it? I ground away the f/g underneath just to try and make one of the washer nozzles fit! I guess there's not much else that can be done but...?
Any comments or suggestions are appreciated; thanks in advance!
Gord
03-26-2013, 07:12 AM
#2
Safety Car
Gord,
The hand laid panels are much thicker than the original. These should be ground down to fit before assembly. Depending on how it was spliced, it can cause problems as simple as getting a washer nozzle to fit, all the way to windshield, door, and top frame fit. Usually, when not properly prepared, it will raise the door (to get it flush with the thicker nose), and then cause all sorts of alignment issues with everything. Since your car is already done, you're stuck with shimming, grinding, etc., to line things up. If the t-bolts in the lower windshield frame don't fit, you can disassemble the windshield frame, grind out the slotted holes, and make some longer t-bolts from 1/4 X 20 carriage bolts. The biggest issue is getting the door post/windshield frame aligned. Have you tried fitment of the door?? If the door is sucked in from the fender (off plane), you can get a little by taping some shims to the foward edge of the hinge. This changes the angle of the hinge, and allows you to adjust the front edge of the door "out". There is usually not enough room to use shims all the way across the hinge. All of it can be accomodated, but you have your work "cut out" for you.....no pun intended. Good luck.
Mike Coletta
The hand laid panels are much thicker than the original. These should be ground down to fit before assembly. Depending on how it was spliced, it can cause problems as simple as getting a washer nozzle to fit, all the way to windshield, door, and top frame fit. Usually, when not properly prepared, it will raise the door (to get it flush with the thicker nose), and then cause all sorts of alignment issues with everything. Since your car is already done, you're stuck with shimming, grinding, etc., to line things up. If the t-bolts in the lower windshield frame don't fit, you can disassemble the windshield frame, grind out the slotted holes, and make some longer t-bolts from 1/4 X 20 carriage bolts. The biggest issue is getting the door post/windshield frame aligned. Have you tried fitment of the door?? If the door is sucked in from the fender (off plane), you can get a little by taping some shims to the foward edge of the hinge. This changes the angle of the hinge, and allows you to adjust the front edge of the door "out". There is usually not enough room to use shims all the way across the hinge. All of it can be accomodated, but you have your work "cut out" for you.....no pun intended. Good luck.
Mike Coletta
03-26-2013, 07:30 PM
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Wow, I never figured this would be that kind of problem! I've driven the car the last couple summers and never bothered with stuff like washer nozzles, defroster outlets etc and now it's painted and the wiring done, I'm on my back under the dash with a grinder!!! Grrrrr!
Thanks Mike
Thanks Mike