Opinion on valve guide liners.
02-13-2013, 07:42 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Opinion on valve guide liners.
I have a set of RHS aluminum SB heads that had the valve guides(and valves) damaged due to incorrect pushrod length. They only had about 3000 miles when they were pulled off and replaced with different heads and the correct length pushrods, etc.
I hate to just garbage can them and wonder if I can get away with using valve guide liners rather than replacing the entire guide.
Does anyone have any experience with them?
Thanks!
I hate to just garbage can them and wonder if I can get away with using valve guide liners rather than replacing the entire guide.
Does anyone have any experience with them?
Thanks!
02-14-2013, 02:07 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Check with manufacturer. I had the same problem last year. Now I was building a budget POS. Pushrod guides were off. Wore out guides fast. I bought guides and put them in, double checked with reamer, lapped valves and away I went. I got the guides from the manufacturer. I made a adapter for air hammer and brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrttt pushed them out and back in. Mine had a flange no lenght adjustment necessary.
P.S. I'll give you the scrap value for them...
Last edited by INMYBLOOD; 02-14-2013 at 02:33 PM.
02-14-2013, 02:12 PM
#3
Safety Car
At one time machine shops could repair worn guides by threading them and winding a bronze wire into the threads. The bronze wire was then reamed or honed to the correct ID for the valve stem. You might check w your machine shop to see if this repair procedure is still available.
02-14-2013, 05:52 PM
#4
Instructor
I have seen some loose valve guides repaired by "knurling" them. Essentially a bolt is ran through them to bring the bronze out into the threads, similar to tapping them but without removing material. Then the guide is reamed to the correct size.
Not the best thing to do because some surface area is lost due to the knurl, but a "cheap repair"
Not the best thing to do because some surface area is lost due to the knurl, but a "cheap repair"
02-14-2013, 07:04 PM
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
I have seen some loose valve guides repaired by "knurling" them. Essentially a bolt is ran through them to bring the bronze out into the threads, similar to tapping them but without removing material. Then the guide is reamed to the correct size.
Not the best thing to do because some surface area is lost due to the knurl, but a "cheap repair"
Not the best thing to do because some surface area is lost due to the knurl, but a "cheap repair"
It appears I can't take the easy way out and will replace the guides in total. Too bad the moron who built the engine couldn't be bothered to check pushrod length when he put it together. They were .200" too long.
Thanks for replies.
02-15-2013, 08:48 AM
#6
Le Mans Master
Did that once about 50 years ago, but would not consider it on bronze guides.
It appears I can't take the easy way out and will replace the guides in total. Too bad the moron who built the engine couldn't be bothered to check pushrod length when he put it together. They were .200" too long.
Thanks for replies.
It appears I can't take the easy way out and will replace the guides in total. Too bad the moron who built the engine couldn't be bothered to check pushrod length when he put it together. They were .200" too long.
Thanks for replies.
02-15-2013, 11:06 AM
#7
Race Director
Thread Starter
Looks very nice! Lots of guys look down on Brownings, especially the later Japanese Citori versions, but I can tell you that I repair a lot more high end guns than those. The later Browning 425,525,625 variants have had wood issues due to crappy wood use, but yours doesn't have that problem. It looks like it has the original pad as well. Did you just pick it up?