deuce highboy

I want to install a LS2 and T56 with a mechanical clutch into my 64 coupe. Can this be done or do I have to use a hyd. Clutch Anyone out there done this ? Thanks, Jackie

00fxd

I used Scoggins Dickey's excellent clutch cross shaft mount for LS engine to early chassis. PN# SDCBV Corvette specific. https://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-...s-center/sdcbv Their parts guys are knowledgeable.

ssgnco

I was thinking of using a hydraulic clutch when I put in my TKO-600. There are a bunch of conversion kits out there. The guy I talked to a Hurst Driveline told me not to do it because the firewall is not strong enough to support the master cylinder. If you can put together a mechanical, I would go this way.

00fxd

My conversion was a some years ago. You could also check with Kiesler. They also have conversion Bellhousings and flywheels

deuce highboy

How did the mechanical clutch system work with the ls ? What clutch pressure plate etc did you use

93Polo

Which engine mounts did you combine it with?

00fxd

I am still using my Muncie because I love my Muncie with the Hurst. There are more choices of mount plates since I did mine but beware, the ones that advertise "Stock eng Location" are full of s#it. As far as I can figure out, they are refering to th R cyl head as related to the fire wall. Super. EVERY THING ELSE IS OFF. Dr shaft length, cl cross shaft place, bell housing placement etc. I discovered this AFTER I modified my Hooker side pipe headers to fit LSx I discovered that I had to move the engine ahead 1" with slotted mounts. F'n great, now my header tube is way too close to my steering box. I bought 3 sets of mount plates before I got some that put the engine in the "Stock Location".
Look at these guys stuff: http://dirtydingo.com/store/index.php Actually the first set they sent me had to be returned - they revised their design at that time. I ended up using solid mounts of all things - I'll replace those someday.

mikey

I maintained the Z-bar mechanical linkage in my '64 LS2/TKO600 build. It has an LS7 clutch and pressure plate. The pedal is a bit heavier than my '06Z06, but fine for me, including heavy stop and go parade like movement.
I made an adapter block that bolts to the LS2 block and holds the pivot ball. If I can manage to get a picture this weekend I'll post it.

Crunch527

I think you can use the mechanical and I would strongly recommend the mechanical linkage.

I did a hydraulic clutch with the first TKO600 Kiesler kit, I swapped into my old 73 vette...got it all together and the hydraulic throw out bearing leaked!! I wasn't about to tear it all apart again. The effort to actuate this clutch was comparable to the pedal feel of my now 67 with mechanical linkage and heavy duty 11 inch clutch. B/L: The extra time, money and $$ pain to install the hydraulic clutch was not worth it in the end. Oh, I fabbed metal backing plates to reinforce the firewall and it was such a pain...I was also swapping from auto trans to manual, so I had to fight the pedals too.

00xfd was making some good points about the engine mounts and stock mounting concerns/fight...not sure when 00xcd did his LS swap, but I know early on for the LS swaps, there were limited resources for engine mounts etc, which steered me away. However, today it shouldn't be a problem to get the correct LS engine mounts & clutch bracket. Not sure about driveshaft lengths?

There are quite a few guys who have done the LS3 swap recently/in progress who can chime in...

Cheers,

Frank

biggd

I wrestled with this issue for a few weeks. After much research I decided to go with the hydraulics. Glade I did, it works so much smoother than the mechanical set up and it didn't cost me much at all. I used a master cylinder from a 1985 C2500 pick up, cost $27.00, it bolts right in. I bought the conversion line and fittings from Speedway that cost me about $85.00. I glassed in a metal plate on the inside of the firewall for more support and shortened the rod on the MC with a ball rod end. I know there are kits out there but they are very expensive. Mine was cheap and works great. My 6sp trans is an older model, out of a 96 Camaro, so the slave is on the outside. If anything leaks it's an easy repair.

dcaggiani

I have the LS3 with a 5-speed TKO 600 set up in my 64 Roadster with a mechanical clutch. I HATE the mechanical clutch. As others mentioned, it has a much heavier feel than the hydraulic set up I tried on Coletta's 64.

In town driving with lots of stop and go gets old fast - highway cruising of course is no problem. Needless to say, upgrading the clutch is my next project.

Dan

00fxd

Hi Dan, I can't imagine why your clutch would be too heavy. You must have a super clutch in there that may not be quite necessary. Changing to a Hyd would be my very last resort. The OEM system is so simple, serviceable, and effective.

mikey

If your mechanical clutch setup is unbearable then perhaps your geometry is not ideal. A longer throw out bearing may be necessary or it might be the pedal connection point (leverage).

jdk971

i have a mechanical with a ls3 and kinsler's ss500 and love it. jim

deuce highboy

Well it, sounds as though the mechanical clutch will work fine with the LS and six speed. I have 411 gears , now wondering if I should use the six speed or five speed that will fit in same shifter position. Is it enough OD with the 411s

jdk971

mine is a five speed. i like to shift, but not that much. have some one on the board here, run your numbers and engine. the man that did my rear build up came up with a 3.91.
i wanted a 3.55, i am glad i went with some one that knows what they are doing. you want
the gear to match your engine's cruising rpms. jim way over my head.

FastEddy

On the 5 spd vs the 6 spd issue:

The gearing on the 5spd's (unless you get the road race 5th in the TKO's) is geared kind of like a 6 spd without 5th gear, so that 5th gear overdrive is still plenty for a 4:11 rear. Essentially your missing 5th gear, not 6th.

In my case the span is too much - rpm's go from 6,300 rpm in 4th gear down to 4,000 in 5th.. dropping out of the engines power band - which means the strong pull comes to an end around 140mph.... way too soon