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Wiring for Holley 4150 electric choke

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Old 03-19-2013, 07:53 AM
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Brumbach
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Default Wiring for Holley 4150 electric choke

The wire for the electric choke originates from where? Thanks
Old 03-19-2013, 08:03 AM
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midyearvette
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Originally Posted by Brumbach
The wire for the electric choke originates from where? Thanks
12 volt switched source (ignition)...not ballast resistor....should be a lug on the fuse box.......bottom right??
black wire to a carb screw (ground).........
Old 03-19-2013, 08:05 AM
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The 4150 Holley 'add on' accessory choke requires a 'switched' 12V - meaning you want the hot wire to only provide power when the key is ON, NOT full time power (when the key is OFF) and NOT accessory power (when the key is in the ACC position).

The motor MUST be running when power is applied to the choke to draw cooling air through it or it will burn up. If you leave your key in ON position withOUT the motor running you'll cook this part pretty quickly. If you hook it up to be hot with the key in the ACC position then you can burn it up with the motor stopped while you are listening to your radio.

BTW - these chokes suck. They can be made to give a nice cold start but they all 'pull off' too quickly so, once running, you have to feather the gas a bunch to get the car moving in cold weather until warm up. Better than nothing though.

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-19-2013 at 08:32 AM.
Old 03-19-2013, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by midyearvette
12 volt switched source (ignition)...not ballast resistor....should be a lug on the fuse box.......bottom right??
black wire to a carb screw (ground).........
Forgive my ignorance...

Wire is hot to carb only when turning key to start?
Old 03-19-2013, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Brumbach
Forgive my ignorance...

Wire is hot to carb only when turning key to start?
Frankie, disregard my question. Thanks for answering before I asked.
Old 03-19-2013, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Brumbach
Frankie, disregard my question. Thanks for answering before I asked.
The brass fitting on the left with the screen is where cooling air is drawn in - do not remove or block this piece. The choke requires 'full time' vacuum (from below the throttle plates) and not ported vacuum.
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
The brass fitting on the left with the screen is where cooling air is drawn in - do not remove or block this piece. The choke requires 'full time' vacuum (from below the throttle plates) and not ported vacuum.
How are you routing the hot wire?
Old 03-19-2013, 02:00 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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I ran it to a 'switched' lug on the fuse box, it was easy but not the perfect solution.

I just pull the '+' lead off the choke when I want to run something with the key in the ACC (accessory) position....like the radio.
Old 03-19-2013, 02:41 PM
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12 volt switched connection point - I hooked up the electric choke lead on my carb to the bottom screw terminal on the ballast resistor.
Old 03-19-2013, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
I ran it to a 'switched' lug on the fuse box, it was easy but not the perfect solution.

I just pull the '+' lead off the choke when I want to run something with the key in the ACC (accessory) position....like the radio.
Unless I'm misinterpreting the photo, it appears you ran the hot wire around the front of the carb and then to the rear. Is that right?
Old 03-19-2013, 04:10 PM
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That first photo was somewhat misleading.

I have both the choke and the A/C idle compensator that both require 12V (switched) - see the orange arrows. I tie-wrapped the wires to the PCV valve hose going around the PS side of the carb and they go to the rear around the distributor to a plastic 'channel' that holds the wiring along the firewall and then it all goes straight in over behind the power brake booster. Having been a former avionics technician I'm a little **** about such things. The choke pulls off so fast on these carbs that I kick on the A/C sometimes just to get a fast idle after starting and before complete warm up. Stupid but that's what it takes...

I've got a Quick Fuel SS 680cfm vacuum secondary carb coming in a few days and will move this Holley 4777 list (4150) to a friend's Malibu at that time... I have a mild cam and plenty of vacuum and want to try the vac secondaries.
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Old 03-19-2013, 04:38 PM
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frankie the fink...fwiw...the pull offs are adjustable....
Old 03-19-2013, 05:12 PM
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Yeah - I know. No matter what it is set at, once that electric current is applied to the choke the choke plate starts opening quickly. Its impossible (in my experience) to get the thing to a sort of half choke position like you can do with a manual choke. Its unlike my WCFBs that 'balance out' between the vacuum operated choke piston and the thermostatic spring as the car warms up.

This is a symptom of every Holley with the aftermarket electric choke that I've encountered.
Old 03-19-2013, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mrg
12 volt switched connection point - I hooked up the electric choke lead on my carb to the bottom screw terminal on the ballast resistor.
Me too.Never an issue.

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