Mike Terry

All you guys who are like me and do your own oil changes ext. and other things because you don't trust the yahoos at Jiffy lub or where ever, I have a question for you. How do you get the oil canester to fit back on after you change oil and put a new filter in the canester without it spitting oil out when you fire it up. Last time I did it I lost 7 qt. of oil and then went to NAPA and bought an adapter for a screw on oil filter. I would like to keep the original oil filter canester but with the price of oil it is cheaper to buy the after market adapter. How do you do it??

65 Hardnoks

I'd buy an oil filter (brand is your choice), twist it on and drive away.

Kerrmudgeon

That's happened to me once in forty years, and it was my own fault. I didn't check the block and clean out the groove enough and that's what happened. I found an old rubber gasket in the groove that must have been there for years, and I broke it by trying to clean the groove. Make sure it's spic and span, and stick the new one in the groove evenly with a light coat of oil, and don't over tighten the canister.


And don't bother to fill up the canister when you install it. There's plenty of oil film on the parts for protection during the 15 seconds it takes to fill up on startup.

aworks

Remove filter canister.

Using a small pick tool or screw driver pull old rubber seal out of the groove in the block.

Make sure it is all out then install new rubber seal. It helps to put a little grease on the seal to help it stay.

Fill canister most way with oil then screw the canister bolt in and do not over tighten.

Done right they never leak.

Chuck Gongloff

Yep.

Sometimes we forget about that rubber "O" ring seal. I use a dental pick to get it out.

I make sure that the groove is clean.

I install the new "O" ring lightly coated with oil, fill the cannister 1/2 way with oil, and screw it snugly into place.

I've heard that some folks have found 1-2 "extra" "O" rings up there. No wonder the cannister won't seal.

Chuck

MikeM

In addition..................

I spin the can/bolt on until the can just about touches the block "O" ring then I shove the can straight up against the "O" ring and hold it while I secure the bolt. This helps keep the spinning can from knocking the "O" ring off location.

66BlkBB

I did what you did years ago. Not because I couldn't get the canister to seal but I just found it more convenient to change oil with the spin on unit.

plaidside

capevettes

Right on the money

Mike Terry

Because I don't have a lift to put my cars up on, I think I will just go to NAPA and buy an adapter for it and use a screw on filter. I will save the canester and if and when I sell the car let the new owner have the canester. Yeah, that sounds like a plan to me.

wmf62

Bill

midyearvette

although the spin ons are easier to install, if you simply remove the by pass plate for the canister, it makes it easier to deal with the sometimes pesky rubber seal.....it either stays in the block, which you can scratch out with a finger nail or it sticks to the plate.
install the rubber to the plate and re install the plate. use a 7/16 socket and extension to access the two bolts and the same tool to insert in the large hole in the plate to pry it out.
this method was taught at the GM training center in the early sixties....

ucc2ic65

[QUOTE=Kerrmudgeon;1583625386]That's happened to me once in forty years, and it was my own fault. I didn't check the block and clean out the groove enough and that's what happened. I found an old rubber gasket in the groove that must have been there for years, and I broke it by trying to clean the groove. Make sure it's spic and span, and stick the new one in the groove evenly with a light coat of oil, and don't over tighten the canister.


I only had this problem once and it was due to what Kerrmudgeon describes. I also do what Mike describes. This not only sets it correctly but it also allows you to have the screening facing how you want it.

TheGanzman

Go "Spin-On", and upgrade to a PF35 from the PF25 - DONE! Cannister on the shelf, next to your Holley carburetor (sorry Boys, I couldn't resist)...

Donny Brass

my Holley and any canister are both on the car... seems to run just fine.

if you use the canister, avoid 'plastic' filters, WIX makes a real nice filer with a metal can.

Pilot Dan

YUP !! I thought that was my idea, it does work

Mike Terry

Well all in all changed over. Yep for $20.00 I have put on an adaptor from NAPA and a Fram PH 30 spin on oil filter on it. Now the 6 is not original any more. Pet that will pee off the NCRS guys, but I did save the canester and the bolts and it can be put back on so now it is time to take her out to play.

Kerrmudgeon

Remember that there is more filtering media and therefore filtering of the oil with the original canister type. Just sayin!

ohiovet

Mike,
I have a spin on on my 65 but canisters on my other cars and have never had a leak.
I think the key is to do as stated above, clean, install new rubber seal, etc.
Then when you start putting the canister on use the bolt to start attaching the canister.
Then hold the canister and do not spin it, pull it up with the bolt and your done

Mike Terry

Trust me the oil will probably not see 3000 mls before it gets another oil change. At most it would be 3000 mls for next oil change.