Polishing a 1960 Kick Panel Insert
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Polishing a 1960 Kick Panel Insert
About 15 months ago, i had a brilliant idea that I would polish the aluminum kick panel insert. I used 3,000 grit sandpaper and water. That removed the shine and now the kick panel is dull.
I have tried every type of polish and wax that I own and nothing makes the dull kick panel shine. I used Flitz cream, plexiglass polish, deep scratch formula and minor scratch formula, liquid wax, and jeweler's rouge on a buffing wheel. None of those products polished the dull aluminum.
I polished my air cleaner lid until it had a mirror finish on it using the Flitz cream (then I had to dull it down as it was too shiny).
Does anyone have another recommendation besides buying a repro kick panel insert?
I have tried every type of polish and wax that I own and nothing makes the dull kick panel shine. I used Flitz cream, plexiglass polish, deep scratch formula and minor scratch formula, liquid wax, and jeweler's rouge on a buffing wheel. None of those products polished the dull aluminum.
I polished my air cleaner lid until it had a mirror finish on it using the Flitz cream (then I had to dull it down as it was too shiny).
Does anyone have another recommendation besides buying a repro kick panel insert?
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Mike, didn't the sandpaper remove the anodized layer? I did a little research on the web regarding the anodizing process and it appears to produce a thin coating that alters the aluminum, but I don't understand it enough to know what I did with the sandpaper.
#4
Safety Car
It can be done, but it's pretty hard stuff. You would actually be able to "see" it coming off. It will leave a line when you break through to the aluminum. Also, anodizing will produce a white dust, and the aluminum will produce a black dust. You'll know when you cut through as everything will become black. It also takes a pretty strong grit to cut it off. I usually use 220 or 180 to cut it, and then 330/400 to clean it up. If you're trying to sand it by hand, you'll never get it off. I use a DA sander, and it still takes a lot of work. Anodizing remover is the easiest way to get it off........and that's a mess too!!!
Mike Coletta
Mike Coletta
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
I just spoke with a man that was very knowledgeable about the anodizing process and he said that the stripping chemicals used to remove the anodized layer would probably eat away too much of the thin insert. He said my best option would be to purchase a repro.
#6
Safety Car
I've done a million of them (or it seems that way). Never had an issue with them being too thin. I've also done rocker moldings (when we couldn't get new). Frankly, for the amount of work involved, a set of reproductions is the way to go......but it can be done.
Mike Coletta
Mike Coletta
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
What have you found to be the best stripper chemical? A quick search of the Internet turned up everything from phosphoric acid to oven cleaner to Red Devil lye.
#9
Melting Slicks
Oven cleaner works well for removing the anodzing, although I bet the wet sanding removed it already. You will need to do some serious polishing though. Think wool pads and heavy polishing compounds, stepping up to finer compounds.
Then you will need to bright anodize, or polish to keep them looking nice.
Bruce
Then you will need to bright anodize, or polish to keep them looking nice.
Bruce