Enclosed Trailer for C1 & C2 Opinions Please?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Enclosed Trailer for C1 & C2 Opinions Please?
I am in the process of getting a larger enclosed trailer as my current trailer will only fit my smaller British cars.
For those who trailer your C1 & C2's what is the trailer length you find to be the best fit and do you have a trailer with a side escape door or not? Also do you have a drop tail on your trailer? Any suggestions in the south east for the best deals and brands on a custom built? I need to get the new one built at 6ft tall inside so it can fit in my garage door.
I am thinking a 20 V-nose or a 22 flat 8.5 wide should work.
Also post any pics of your set up please.
Thanks!
For those who trailer your C1 & C2's what is the trailer length you find to be the best fit and do you have a trailer with a side escape door or not? Also do you have a drop tail on your trailer? Any suggestions in the south east for the best deals and brands on a custom built? I need to get the new one built at 6ft tall inside so it can fit in my garage door.
I am thinking a 20 V-nose or a 22 flat 8.5 wide should work.
Also post any pics of your set up please.
Thanks!
Last edited by C1-Curt; 05-09-2013 at 12:12 AM.
#2
Safety Car
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I went with a 24 foot v-nose and a canopy door
there is plenty of room in there, but I do fill it pretty good on race weekends
there is plenty of room in there, but I do fill it pretty good on race weekends
#3
Race Director
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I assume your interest in a V-nose is for fuel economy, yes? Let me tell you a story: Before I bought an enclosed trailer I made a pest of myself by borrowing every enclosed trailer my friends had.... V-nose, flat front, sloping front... whatever. Towing with a diesel Dodge, I got exactly the same fuel economy regardless of the style of trailer.
So, my suggestion is to get the 22' flat front. Any effect it will have on fuel economy is illusory and you'll have more room for "stuff".
Jim
So, my suggestion is to get the 22' flat front. Any effect it will have on fuel economy is illusory and you'll have more room for "stuff".
Jim
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2011
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Storage space in my yard is limited, so I went with a 18ft V-nose (20 ft inside) trailer.
Some may say "that is too small" but I load my car at the rear, then in the front there is plenty of room for any extra stuff I want to carry.
I do not feel a side escape door is necessary, if you make sure the interior wheel wells are shorter than your car door, so the drivers door can open over the wheel well.
I had the trailer built by a small, semi custom manufacturer in Florida.
They far exceeded my expectations at a reasonable price. PM me for their contact info.
Some may say "that is too small" but I load my car at the rear, then in the front there is plenty of room for any extra stuff I want to carry.
I do not feel a side escape door is necessary, if you make sure the interior wheel wells are shorter than your car door, so the drivers door can open over the wheel well.
I had the trailer built by a small, semi custom manufacturer in Florida.
They far exceeded my expectations at a reasonable price. PM me for their contact info.
#5
Enclosed Trailer for Corvettes
I have one with no side door and it is a PITA, get the side door. Small is OK if your parking area is small. I have an 18' Car Mate and it is low to the ground and tows well. I like the Torq type axles.
#6
Drifting
I have a 24' with a rounded front. In my experience, It's best just to get a winch to pull the cars in. I don't have a door, but if I did, my car sits to low to clear the interior fender well anyway. My larger cars that sit higher I feel I could use an escape door.
My next trailer I haven't decided if I am getting a door or not. I use mine at the track and sit in it between calls, so I think the added door might help with ventilation, but then you have another door that could be broken into. I guess it all depends on your use.... but get the winch. and the torsion axles are worth the little extra $$, no springs to maintain, etc...
My next trailer I haven't decided if I am getting a door or not. I use mine at the track and sit in it between calls, so I think the added door might help with ventilation, but then you have another door that could be broken into. I guess it all depends on your use.... but get the winch. and the torsion axles are worth the little extra $$, no springs to maintain, etc...
#7
Safety Car
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I have an 18 foot race trailer with street side and curb side door. I had a 20' before and there was too much wasted space in front of the car. I had them take a 12" out of the top when I went with the flat top race trailer because the Round Top trailer streak so bad. the cast aluminum corners on the top will not streak. I wish I would have ordered the v nose. That's the only thing I would change just to add a little room in front to make it easier to tie down. My trailer is black and it does not streak.
Last edited by Geralds57; 05-09-2013 at 11:23 AM.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Storage space in my yard is limited, so I went with a 18ft V-nose (20 ft inside) trailer.
Some may say "that is too small" but I load my car at the rear, then in the front there is plenty of room for any extra stuff I want to carry.
I do not feel a side escape door is necessary, if you make sure the interior wheel wells are shorter than your car door, so the drivers door can open over the wheel well.
I had the trailer built by a small, semi custom manufacturer in Florida.
They far exceeded my expectations at a reasonable price. PM me for their contact info.
Some may say "that is too small" but I load my car at the rear, then in the front there is plenty of room for any extra stuff I want to carry.
I do not feel a side escape door is necessary, if you make sure the interior wheel wells are shorter than your car door, so the drivers door can open over the wheel well.
I had the trailer built by a small, semi custom manufacturer in Florida.
They far exceeded my expectations at a reasonable price. PM me for their contact info.
#10
Safety Car
This is what you want! I have the same, except without the canopy door, but i plan on adding one eventually. V nose is definitely the way to go. There are 9,000 arguments on here already concerning flat vs V, so need to go into it. I personally like the way the V nose trailers pull much better than the flat. They get pushed around a little bit when they are empty while passing 18 wheelers, but stay solid with load. The V area in the front of the trailer makes a nice place to put your wench, etc.
#11
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2011
Location: Syracuse, NY and Clearwater, FL
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18 foot plus an additional 2 feet in the enclosed V area.
I load my car close to the rear door, leaving the extra room at the front.
There is PLENTY of room to walk around and fasten the front tie downs.
#12
Burning Brakes
#13
V-nose 24ft , 5200 lb axles, 10 ply tires, led lights, escape door, or If you race a winch comes in handy, when you break. It is way easier to do it right the first time. I am now running a 24ft. round nose,with 3500lb. axles. It gets you by, if all you haul is a corvette. But load it up with race gear, generator, air compressor and tools. And you Are pushing it. Good luck and be safe towing. Ron B.
#14
Le Mans Master
I have only C1 and C2 Corvettes but have had also 70 Roadrunner and C5 and C6 cars in my 22' slope nose trailer 22'X8.5' slope nose United Trailer. It also has a left side excape door so I can get in and out of cars without banging the doors into the trailer. It also has 5200lb axles. The bad thing is about 4 weeks ago a hail storm came thru and totaled my trailer. I have already ordered another custom built trailer just like the one that got totaled except I am having the excapr door mover 8" to the rear of where the factory puts them normally. The reason is because where the factory putst the left side door (center over the tired and wheels) the car do just hits the edge of the door frame on the door. By moving it to the rear 8" that will no longer happen. Had I known where the balance point was when having a C1 or C2 Corvette in the trailer I would have had that done on my first left side excape door trailer. I measured it and it will also look ok from the outside as well. You do not want a roof vent in a trailer. If you have it open just an inch or so when going down the road it will vibrate up and if it raind and you have a car in the trailer the crank is right over the top of your car and you can not get to it. Get side vents. left side upper in-let and right side lower out-let for air. Also roof vents are most of the time plactic and they crack or break in a hail storm and you now have a flooded trailer and what ever is in it is wet as well. I also have a remote control 12000 lb wench and a storage cabnit, tool box, air tank, and a work bench that I built that folds up to the side wall and only sticks out from the wall about 4" plus I keep a cooler up front as well and I have a cloths bar for when I am on long trips and need a place to hang up my cloths. I also keep my spare tire in the trailer as well. All in all I still have plenty of room.
Last edited by Mike Terry; 05-09-2013 at 11:19 AM.
#15
Race Director
The V nose give added tow vehicle bumper clearance. Probably not useful so much for backing up, but it does make hooking up easier if you have a tight area, and need to get in at an angle, while giving you extra space for stuff over the hitch in what would other wise be unused space.
Doug
Doug
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I am getting close on a trailer selection, now I have a question about tie downs.
For those of you with a C2 how do you tie the back down, and I guess the front. I see how I could put axle straps on the front but not real clear on the back. Looks like I could use some kind of frame hook.
For those of you with a C2 how do you tie the back down, and I guess the front. I see how I could put axle straps on the front but not real clear on the back. Looks like I could use some kind of frame hook.
#19
Burning Brakes
Things I've learned.
I've owned car hauling trailers for years and I've learned some thing to think about when buying.[LIST]
* Since this is Corvettes, make sure the inner fendors are low enough for the doors to clear when the car is tied down. This height varies greatly from vendor to vendor.
* Go for the drivers side door for ease of getting in to and out of the car once it's in the trailer. The new idea is to get a door that opens up and is fairly wide so car placement is not dicated by the trailer door opening.
* Since you'll probably be parking the trailer outdoors go with some color other than white. Also go with the screwless outside walls.
* Make sure you get brakes on both axles.
* Go with the higher GVW axles.
* Order the 36" extension for the rear door, makes loading Vettes much easier.
Hope this helps.
* Since this is Corvettes, make sure the inner fendors are low enough for the doors to clear when the car is tied down. This height varies greatly from vendor to vendor.
* Go for the drivers side door for ease of getting in to and out of the car once it's in the trailer. The new idea is to get a door that opens up and is fairly wide so car placement is not dicated by the trailer door opening.
* Since you'll probably be parking the trailer outdoors go with some color other than white. Also go with the screwless outside walls.
* Make sure you get brakes on both axles.
* Go with the higher GVW axles.
* Order the 36" extension for the rear door, makes loading Vettes much easier.
Hope this helps.
#20
Safety Car
Member Since: Sep 2004
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do a search for Northern Tool j-hooks... they go in the reinforced slots in the frame that the factory used to transport the cars when they were new.....
posting from work, so I can't find pictures ........
posting from work, so I can't find pictures ........