mrtexas

The premium is 13%, 7% for seller and 6% for buyer. You can argue who is paying what but for a $50k car, the seller gets $46.5k and the buyer pays $53k.

futura

Sounds like a fair deal. I've got a similar 64, same paint and interior codes plus a hardtop but mine is only a 300 hp. I still really like the color. I live in Northern CT if you ever want to compare notes.

gccch

There was a bonding stripo n both sides along the fender .. not sure about the wheel well. Price is 35-37.

Still unsure....

gccch

I can do the mechanical work. Everything except body paint.

garyguinn

just an opinion,
42k is too high in this market ...
I bought a very nice non matching 65 coupe in April for 27k
great time to buy, not a great time to sell...

gccch

No it is E3.

I left this one for a few days to think it over. Seller and I are within 2k but not closing. The evidence of an accident has turned me off only a little. It's still a very presentable matching number with a nice engine option. Seems like the car for me but i do not want to over pay.

gccch

This is exactly the kind of insight I need! So I can see in my pics the drivers side clearly has staple holes. The passenger side I don't have as good a pic but Looking just beneath the hood support I can see behind the alternator there appears to be a staple location and also a possible repair but the pic is from too far away. I'm now home and on a big screen it's a little better...

gccch

So I have checked Mecum results from Indy and there is one similar car that sold for $35k (net $37k) with a completely detailed matching number engine. This one is very comparable otherwise. I'm thinking 35k is about right for my offer. I will need to buy several expensive engine items and do a lot of work to get to the level of the Mecum car. But it will be a nice rare example...

gbvette62

It looks like a decent car, and if it can be bought for in the mid $30's, it's probably a fair deal.

The problem I see, is if you are thinking about possibly getting a Top Flight someday, you will easily put another $30.000+ in it! Even going for a PV, you will probably drop $5,000 in the car.

To start with, you'll have to return the car to completely original condition. This means you will need to install the correct intake, carb, air cleaner, choke, oil fill tube and cap, PCV, alternator, exhaust manifolds, shielding, etc. It will all need to function, as original too. Through the hole in the core support, there appears to be an oil cooler (??), that would need to be removed (it's the wrong support too, likely a GM service replacement). You will also need to replace the radials, with a set of bias ply tires.

Beyond bringing the car back to original, to get a PV, everything on the car has to work the same as the day that the car was new. The radio can't have any static in it, when turning on or changing channels. The windows and vents, have to open and close smoothly, with no play in the handles. The gauges have to work, and read correctly. All of the lamps, wipers, washers, seat tracks, shifter, ash tray, locks, glove box, heater/defroster, and on and on; must function perfectly.

Between entrants fees, hotels, gas and tolls, it can cost you $500-$1,000, to enter a car at a regional, to have it PV'd.

I'm not saying that you shouldn't do it, or that it's not worthwhile , because I think it is. I just wanted to make sure you were fully aware of what you may be in for, if you want to PV, or Top Flight that car.

Good luck with your pursuit!

gccch

Thanks gb... I do understand the PV process and the costs involved in that are part of the hobby, so those are things I get satisfaction from.

Things I am afraid of are getting wrecked on hidden issues. Many of those engine parts come with it, but there are probably 2k worth missing. And I don't need a top flight, just enough to get to PV then have fun driving.

I'm feeling good about 35 but no more. Seller is not willing to move enough as yet.

mrtexas

The seller got $32.6k and the buyer paid $37k. Sounds like $32.6k to me. Find one in the condition you finally want. That will be way cheaper than "fixing."

Figure the $2k to be $5k+. Go find a much nicer one for $40k.

MarkC

It's a money pit.Check out the black 63 in the for sale section on this forum. You will be much better off with a car someone else has put too much money in. Good luck.

gccch

Well if i wanted to spend high 40s I would be looking at that one and many others. I'm really trying to get a mid year for mid 30s max and work it from there. I may be into it for more in the end but I'm not trying to make profit, just enjoy the hobby. I could afford to buy a fully restored C3 but then all I get to do is drive and detail. So far I've seen only a few in my price range but most are NOM or otherwise questionable. You haven't talked me down yet.

Revfan

I hear you gc...
I am kind of in the same boat. The conventional wisdom is, "decide what you want, and then get the best car you can afford".

To some of us, the best car we can afford doesn't necessarily get you over the hump of putting more money in.

Which is why I am looking for something that I can drive now, and work on as I go....

vettebuyer6369

Sometimes thats true, but Ive had a couple midyears with service replacement supports replaced because the others were crusty looking and nasty. Doesnt have to be front end damage.

gccch

I do think this car suffered some damage, but the frame looks very solid and the body lines are also good. I have seen some others that turned me away because of poor fitting panels and headlights. If this was damaged it appears to be very well repaired. I guess I better have it checked over more closely for issues though.

VeroWing

Mid 30s seems like a pretty good number if numbers are for sure, no cage rust, etc.

John BX NY

And if your goal is Top Flight/Duntov there are thousands of dollars more to be spent...

MarkC

Gccch, check out the red 64 that was just listed in the for sale section. Mark

Dan Hampton

$30-$$35K. How much work has been done on the rear suspension (wheel bearings, etc). It looks like a nice driver. If you go the TF route, you are going to be totally underwater before you can say, "partial resto". I like 64s but they do not bring the premium that the other C2s bring. As a driver, it looks like a great car.

To give you some perspective, I am looking at a supposed low mile '64 Coupe, 327/300. 54,000 miles, previous month end damage. Pretty squared away. Been in storage for ten years. $25-$30K is where I am right now, concentrating on the low end--not a penny more. There are just too many cars for sale to pay up for daily drivers. Paint will always be a sticking point when you exit the car in a few years. Give that major weight when you consider purchasing the car.