327 (# 3959512 ?)
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327 (# 3959512 ?)
Hi! I'm new to the forum.
I'm making arrangements to pick up a running-when-removed-327 out of a '64 Corvette. I'm told by the seller that it is not the original motor, and that it was put in as a factory replacement motor sometime in the late '60's-early '70's. The car has been owned by 2 people.....the (late) guy who bought it new, and now his son who is restoring it, but now put a new crate motor in it for reliability and the desire to travel long distances in the car. The motor i'm picking up has a block casting number of 3959512, which i find no information on in the GM Heritage website (because its a replacement motor?).
The seller said it has the Duntov cam with solid lifters, and needs higher than todays pump premium octane to run good. I plan on rebuilding this motor, having the heads gone through (hardened valve seats needed just to name one of many), then dropping it in my 1965 El Camino, which is my one and only big-boy-toy. I'm currently running a healthy little 283 with an edelbrock intake, Edel 600 carb, long-tube headers, MSD HEI full distributor, electric fan/belt fan delete, TH350 trans-trans go stage II shift kit, 2200 stall, and B&M Megashifter that zipps me around town decently, but this 327 would be a welcome increase in power.
I would like to do anything i can to it to make it as powerfull as can be done within reason and driveability. The motor build will span basically a year's time (i would like to have it done by next summer). I am also not opposed to increasing ci to what is possible in this motor.
I've come here looking for ideas and advice from the people who know these motors. Any and all ideas, information, knowledge, experience, and thoughts are welcome. Please comment. Thank you. Jeff
I'm making arrangements to pick up a running-when-removed-327 out of a '64 Corvette. I'm told by the seller that it is not the original motor, and that it was put in as a factory replacement motor sometime in the late '60's-early '70's. The car has been owned by 2 people.....the (late) guy who bought it new, and now his son who is restoring it, but now put a new crate motor in it for reliability and the desire to travel long distances in the car. The motor i'm picking up has a block casting number of 3959512, which i find no information on in the GM Heritage website (because its a replacement motor?).
The seller said it has the Duntov cam with solid lifters, and needs higher than todays pump premium octane to run good. I plan on rebuilding this motor, having the heads gone through (hardened valve seats needed just to name one of many), then dropping it in my 1965 El Camino, which is my one and only big-boy-toy. I'm currently running a healthy little 283 with an edelbrock intake, Edel 600 carb, long-tube headers, MSD HEI full distributor, electric fan/belt fan delete, TH350 trans-trans go stage II shift kit, 2200 stall, and B&M Megashifter that zipps me around town decently, but this 327 would be a welcome increase in power.
I would like to do anything i can to it to make it as powerfull as can be done within reason and driveability. The motor build will span basically a year's time (i would like to have it done by next summer). I am also not opposed to increasing ci to what is possible in this motor.
I've come here looking for ideas and advice from the people who know these motors. Any and all ideas, information, knowledge, experience, and thoughts are welcome. Please comment. Thank you. Jeff
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Welcome to the forum
Given what the engine numbers say (low horse), and what the seller says (needs high octane fuel), I don't think you can be sure what you have until you get into it.
I see no need for hardened valve seats. Your budget will determine how far you take this engine.
I have very very limited experience with the engine internals, so others will have to chime in with ideas of what to do.
Just wanted to welcome you.
Given what the engine numbers say (low horse), and what the seller says (needs high octane fuel), I don't think you can be sure what you have until you get into it.
I see no need for hardened valve seats. Your budget will determine how far you take this engine.
I have very very limited experience with the engine internals, so others will have to chime in with ideas of what to do.
Just wanted to welcome you.
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Seriously - If you want to go fast find a worn out 350 and install a stoker kit. You'll get the experience and satisfaction of the build AND you'll go fast.
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But you appear to be buying a engine of unknown history as a starting point. The previous owner had the same decisions to make as you do now and he opted to sell it.
Before you get to far along $ wise, be sure to figure out what you eventually want to have and know what parts will not transfer over. Buying things twice sucks.
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I fully understand. I just finished up building a 427 for my 66 and there is something to be said for doing it yourself. But I already had the car and the engine and it was one of those 'some day when I get the chance' projects that finally needed to be done.
But you appear to be buying a engine of unknown history as a starting point. The previous owner had the same decisions to make as you do now and he opted to sell it.
Before you get to far along $ wise, be sure to figure out what you eventually want to have and know what parts will not transfer over. Buying things twice sucks.
But you appear to be buying a engine of unknown history as a starting point. The previous owner had the same decisions to make as you do now and he opted to sell it.
Before you get to far along $ wise, be sure to figure out what you eventually want to have and know what parts will not transfer over. Buying things twice sucks.
Thoughts? I'm open for suggestions. But i do plan on re-building this motor and using it.
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#14
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As others have posted- don't do it. Basically you're buying a $150 motor for $500 and will plow several hundred more $$$ into it to gain "experience" ! Do a 350, for the same money you get more HP, more TQ and probably more reliability. Your "friend" is not doing you any favor, Bob
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As others have posted- don't do it. Basically you're buying a $150 motor for $500 and will plow several hundred more $$$ into it to gain "experience" ! Do a 350, for the same money you get more HP, more TQ and probably more reliability. Your "friend" is not doing you any favor, Bob
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You can't buy complete/previously running 327's, let alone 350's for $150 anymore these days (not out here in Cali anyway). I'm starting with a known, running motor that i've seen and heard run. I could literally drop this in, in place of my 283 and come out above where i was. I'll re-build it for a couple hundred dollars in rings, bearings, bolts and seals and be better than i am currently.
#17
Drifting
I bought a CE 512 motor 4 years ago in its wooden crate forged crank from jim glass in kingston NY we put a 151 grind cam left it stock pistons balanced it . and stock 2x4 setup runs fine , cool motor i bet a few people on this forum would not mind getting there hands on your 327 512 motor .nice camino i had two 67 and 65 both black
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I bought a CE 512 motor 4 years ago in its wooden crate forged crank from jim glass in kingston NY we put a 151 grind cam left it stock pistons balanced it . and stock 2x4 setup runs fine , cool motor i bet a few people on this forum would not mind getting there hands on your 327 512 motor .nice camino i had two 67 and 65 both black
Thank You! My father's daily driver when i was a kid was a '65 El camino. Probably why i love mine so much
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If you have the discipline to do that, then run it as it is. I would not be able to. Once I started I would go down the road of,'while I am in here I might as well...' and before I was done I would have had every part to the machine shop and everything else replaced. In the end building a full motor and way past a few hundred bucks.
I'm looking for ideas and tips from any and all that have built and re-built these old motors on what makes 'em hot.
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2018 C1 of Year Finalist
My car is running the same block. Now, it is torn down now since I thought I had a ring problem since I found some material in the pan. Instead it just a vacuum leak, carb and/or timing issues. At first I thought I had broken a ring. Now, I know that is not the case.
What I had found out from the people here was it is a CE SHP block with a forged crank.
I would say go for it if it is standard bore. It is a great experience learning how to build a motor. Not saying anything is wrong with a crate motor. In my case, I wanted a somewhat period correct 327 engine.
Now, I would be set if I can get the timing, lashing, carb and vacuum resolved.
As far as the engine goes:
Speed pro flat top forged pistons
Original rods
Forged 4577 crank 10/10
.030 over bore
comp cam nestalgia L79+ cam, lifter and timing gear
Old skool ported 461x heads 1.94. Someone shaved off the double humps (street racer)
Comp cam magnum push rods.
tach drive distributor with pertronix
edelbrock performer intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
ARP fasteners
HV/HP oil pump
2 1/2 ram horns
Off road exhaust with crossover
M21 with 411 gears (positraction)
It did have plenty of power for my car. My goal was to try to keep the old hot rod vibe.
Yesterday, I happened to see a 61 at a local speed shop. It had a zz4 with dual quads. It was cool but seemed really low compared to my car. He had the Jim Meyer IFS on the front. Plus, it was black on black. The owner installed air conditioning since he said it was just too hot to drive during the summer. Lots of chrome under the hood. Just different than compared to my car. I am sure it is fun to drive. He did a really nice job under the hood. Just different is all.
What I had found out from the people here was it is a CE SHP block with a forged crank.
I would say go for it if it is standard bore. It is a great experience learning how to build a motor. Not saying anything is wrong with a crate motor. In my case, I wanted a somewhat period correct 327 engine.
Now, I would be set if I can get the timing, lashing, carb and vacuum resolved.
As far as the engine goes:
Speed pro flat top forged pistons
Original rods
Forged 4577 crank 10/10
.030 over bore
comp cam nestalgia L79+ cam, lifter and timing gear
Old skool ported 461x heads 1.94. Someone shaved off the double humps (street racer)
Comp cam magnum push rods.
tach drive distributor with pertronix
edelbrock performer intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
ARP fasteners
HV/HP oil pump
2 1/2 ram horns
Off road exhaust with crossover
M21 with 411 gears (positraction)
It did have plenty of power for my car. My goal was to try to keep the old hot rod vibe.
Yesterday, I happened to see a 61 at a local speed shop. It had a zz4 with dual quads. It was cool but seemed really low compared to my car. He had the Jim Meyer IFS on the front. Plus, it was black on black. The owner installed air conditioning since he said it was just too hot to drive during the summer. Lots of chrome under the hood. Just different than compared to my car. I am sure it is fun to drive. He did a really nice job under the hood. Just different is all.
Last edited by jimh_1962; 05-29-2013 at 01:12 PM.