64 front drum brakes
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
64 front drum brakes
My 64 with 4 wheel drum brakes pulls to the left. I suspect a leaking front right wheel cylinder. I have done modern disc brakes but have not done drums. on the front do I need to pull the dust cover, cotter pin and castle nut to remove brake drum, It looks like it is all one piece. or can I just back off the star adjusting wheel to pull drum. Drum would not come off by tapping on it with hammer.
Thank
Craig
Thank
Craig
#2
Advanced
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: san diego ca
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My do that from time to time, the self adjusters don't always both adjust at the same time so you get one coming in before and harder than the other, Most of the time it will fix itself when the second one adjusts itself, You can try backing up at 5 to 10 mph and slam on the brakes, doing that a couple of times should get the adjusters to even out.
#3
POSSE ZR-1 Driver
The drums slip off the front hubs like the rears.
As you suggested, you may have to back off the adjusters to get them off.
As you suggested, you may have to back off the adjusters to get them off.
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
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Hit the outer edge of the drum on a 45* angle. Work around the drum with the hammer. Sometimes it helps if you smack the drum between the wheel studs as that's where the binding occurs. The shoulder on the hub that centers the drum.
Don't hit the drum on the inside flange where it meets the backing plate. You can break it. Sometimes it helps to pry a little bit there while you do the hammer thing.
When the drum starts to move, you'll know if you need to back off the adjusters.
#5
Team Owner
Sometimes you have to smack the drum pretty good with a two pounder. Tapping won't work!
Hit the outer edge of the drum on a 45* angle. Work around the drum with the hammer. Sometimes it helps if you smack the drum between the wheel studs as that's where the binding occurs. The shoulder on the hub that centers the drum.
Don't hit the drum on the inside flange where it meets the backing plate. You can break it. Sometimes it helps to pry a little bit there while you do the hammer thing.
When the drum starts to move, you'll know if you need to back off the adjusters.
Hit the outer edge of the drum on a 45* angle. Work around the drum with the hammer. Sometimes it helps if you smack the drum between the wheel studs as that's where the binding occurs. The shoulder on the hub that centers the drum.
Don't hit the drum on the inside flange where it meets the backing plate. You can break it. Sometimes it helps to pry a little bit there while you do the hammer thing.
When the drum starts to move, you'll know if you need to back off the adjusters.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
I have tried do this already
My do that from time to time, the self adjusters don't always both adjust at the same time so you get one coming in before and harder than the other, Most of the time it will fix itself when the second one adjusts itself, You can try backing up at 5 to 10 mph and slam on the brakes, doing that a couple of times should get the adjusters to even out.
Thanks
#7
Race Director
it will pull left if one front left piston sticks in the bore. i find i have to lightly grease the pistons to avoid this. unlike disc brakes, brake fluid should NOT contact the pistons.
#8
Team Owner
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#10
Safety Car
Like Subfixer said, the drums should just slip off the hubs. If you have a leaking wheel cylinder, you would know it...evident by fluid on the inside of the hub running down the inside of the tire.
While you're at, inspect the rest of the brake assembly and put in new parts as needed and don't forget to take pics beforehand...makes it easier to put things back together.
While you're at, inspect the rest of the brake assembly and put in new parts as needed and don't forget to take pics beforehand...makes it easier to put things back together.
#11
Drifting
If everything looks good (no leaks) when you get the drums off, change the brake hoses. It's quite common on older cars for the inside of the hose to swell nearly shut with age, yet look fine on the outside. my 64 was like that but now stops straight arrow.
.02
Russ
.02
Russ
#12
Le Mans Master
Do yourself a favor and go through the entire drum brake system if it has not been done in a while. replacing older brake hoses is a must, as well as examining the wheel cylinders for leaks and smooth operation. Not too long ago I fixed a similar problem on a car that had new hoses, shoes and hardware, with recent wheel cylinders as well. Turned out one of the wheel cylinders had a small rust ridge from sitting too long and while it did not leak, it stuck and caused a pull. With everything in the system properly serviced, the drum brakes will stop fast and straight. Pilot Dan
#13
Melting Slicks
I am fighting a similar issue on my 63....the pass rear locks up quicker than the others....Let us know what you find.
#14
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Don't fight it, just do it!
Drum brakes are good but they require a lot more attention than disc brakes. Seems like the only time Corvette disc brakes require anything is when the calipers start leaking.
#15
Melting Slicks
Yeah ! Thanks! I plan to pull the drum the week of the 16th..I have the week off to tinker.
I just put on all new brakes last summer...Drums, lines, shoes, cylinders, etc.....
I will definitely share what I find.
I just put on all new brakes last summer...Drums, lines, shoes, cylinders, etc.....
I will definitely share what I find.
#16
Melting Slicks
Fixed. A few back-ups and the brakes are good to go.
Didn't even have to pull a wheel.
Picked up some front discs for a conversion in the near future...
Didn't even have to pull a wheel.
Picked up some front discs for a conversion in the near future...