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64 front drum brakes

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Old 06-01-2013, 10:50 PM
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cramus
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Default 64 front drum brakes

My 64 with 4 wheel drum brakes pulls to the left. I suspect a leaking front right wheel cylinder. I have done modern disc brakes but have not done drums. on the front do I need to pull the dust cover, cotter pin and castle nut to remove brake drum, It looks like it is all one piece. or can I just back off the star adjusting wheel to pull drum. Drum would not come off by tapping on it with hammer.

Thank
Craig
Old 06-01-2013, 11:29 PM
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P Knopp
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My do that from time to time, the self adjusters don't always both adjust at the same time so you get one coming in before and harder than the other, Most of the time it will fix itself when the second one adjusts itself, You can try backing up at 5 to 10 mph and slam on the brakes, doing that a couple of times should get the adjusters to even out.
Old 06-02-2013, 07:36 AM
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Subfixer
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The drums slip off the front hubs like the rears.

As you suggested, you may have to back off the adjusters to get them off.
Old 06-02-2013, 07:51 AM
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MikeM
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Originally Posted by cramus

..... or can I just back off the star adjusting wheel to pull drum. Drum would not come off by tapping on it with hammer.

Thank
Craig
Sometimes you have to smack the drum pretty good with a two pounder. Tapping won't work!

Hit the outer edge of the drum on a 45* angle. Work around the drum with the hammer. Sometimes it helps if you smack the drum between the wheel studs as that's where the binding occurs. The shoulder on the hub that centers the drum.

Don't hit the drum on the inside flange where it meets the backing plate. You can break it. Sometimes it helps to pry a little bit there while you do the hammer thing.

When the drum starts to move, you'll know if you need to back off the adjusters.
Old 06-02-2013, 08:50 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Sometimes you have to smack the drum pretty good with a two pounder. Tapping won't work!

Hit the outer edge of the drum on a 45* angle. Work around the drum with the hammer. Sometimes it helps if you smack the drum between the wheel studs as that's where the binding occurs. The shoulder on the hub that centers the drum.

Don't hit the drum on the inside flange where it meets the backing plate. You can break it. Sometimes it helps to pry a little bit there while you do the hammer thing.

When the drum starts to move, you'll know if you need to back off the adjusters.
Yup! (Not done by me BTW)
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:58 AM
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cramus
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Default I have tried do this already

Originally Posted by P Knopp
My do that from time to time, the self adjusters don't always both adjust at the same time so you get one coming in before and harder than the other, Most of the time it will fix itself when the second one adjusts itself, You can try backing up at 5 to 10 mph and slam on the brakes, doing that a couple of times should get the adjusters to even out.
I have tried this already and it doesn't seem to help. thats why I suspect a leaking wheel cylinder.

Thanks
Old 06-02-2013, 09:47 AM
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Matt Gruber
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it will pull left if one front left piston sticks in the bore. i find i have to lightly grease the pistons to avoid this. unlike disc brakes, brake fluid should NOT contact the pistons.
Old 06-02-2013, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by cramus
I have tried this already and it doesn't seem to help. thats why I suspect a leaking wheel cylinder.

Thanks
There's a number of reasons drum brakes will pull to one side or the other. Until you get the drum off, you're (and us) are just guessing.
Old 06-02-2013, 10:12 AM
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Matt Gruber
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don't beat on the drum unless your name is Ringo.
take dust cap off, cotter pin, nut, washer, bearings, drum/hub
Old 06-02-2013, 11:53 AM
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Like Subfixer said, the drums should just slip off the hubs. If you have a leaking wheel cylinder, you would know it...evident by fluid on the inside of the hub running down the inside of the tire.

While you're at, inspect the rest of the brake assembly and put in new parts as needed and don't forget to take pics beforehand...makes it easier to put things back together.
Old 06-02-2013, 12:06 PM
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If everything looks good (no leaks) when you get the drums off, change the brake hoses. It's quite common on older cars for the inside of the hose to swell nearly shut with age, yet look fine on the outside. my 64 was like that but now stops straight arrow.

.02
Russ
Old 06-02-2013, 04:30 PM
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Pilot Dan
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Do yourself a favor and go through the entire drum brake system if it has not been done in a while. replacing older brake hoses is a must, as well as examining the wheel cylinders for leaks and smooth operation. Not too long ago I fixed a similar problem on a car that had new hoses, shoes and hardware, with recent wheel cylinders as well. Turned out one of the wheel cylinders had a small rust ridge from sitting too long and while it did not leak, it stuck and caused a pull. With everything in the system properly serviced, the drum brakes will stop fast and straight. Pilot Dan
Old 06-02-2013, 07:45 PM
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DucatiDon
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I am fighting a similar issue on my 63....the pass rear locks up quicker than the others....Let us know what you find.
Old 06-02-2013, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by DucatiDon
I am fighting a similar issue on my 63....the pass rear locks up quicker than the others....Let us know what you find.
Maybe you should follow the post in #12 and let US know what YOU find?

Don't fight it, just do it!

Drum brakes are good but they require a lot more attention than disc brakes. Seems like the only time Corvette disc brakes require anything is when the calipers start leaking.
Old 06-02-2013, 08:15 PM
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Yeah ! Thanks! I plan to pull the drum the week of the 16th..I have the week off to tinker.
I just put on all new brakes last summer...Drums, lines, shoes, cylinders, etc.....
I will definitely share what I find.
Old 07-05-2013, 08:48 PM
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Fixed. A few back-ups and the brakes are good to go.
Didn't even have to pull a wheel.
Picked up some front discs for a conversion in the near future...

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