Adding power brakes to the '64, I need...?
08-07-2013, 10:25 AM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Adding power brakes to the '64, I need...?
I've decided after a few weeks of driving and figuring out what I want to do to freshen my '64 non-power brake system to inspect my lines carefully and keep my drums (lots of good opinions on this both sides of the fence, I know). I'm thinking with new cylinders, hoses, and a "lifetime" MC I will forgo splitting the system for a few years.
However, I do think I would enjoy Power Drums. Do I only need to add a Booster to complete this? Is my non-power type 7/8" master cylinder a fit for the booster? Will plumbing vacuum to the booster from the intake be straightforward (I assume so). Any advice is much appreciated before I go ordering parts, as always.
PS I promise I did a little searching before asking!
However, I do think I would enjoy Power Drums. Do I only need to add a Booster to complete this? Is my non-power type 7/8" master cylinder a fit for the booster? Will plumbing vacuum to the booster from the intake be straightforward (I assume so). Any advice is much appreciated before I go ordering parts, as always.
PS I promise I did a little searching before asking!
08-07-2013, 10:40 AM
#2
Safety Car
I'm in that position myself...........I have the disc brakes for my 64, but a few members said power drums will work as well. So I'll
and see what others post. To the top for your thread.................
and see what others post. To the top for your thread.................
08-07-2013, 05:25 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
I put a booster on my 63. It's a must do if you intend to keep drums and drive it.
It's only about a 2 hour job. The hardest part is moving the Clevis own the brake pedal.
You need to drill holes Under the wiper grill for the booster bracket.
Remove the m/c. Move Clevis on brake pedal to the other position, add the power brake brake light switch tab, bolt it together and go. Don't even need to open or drain brake fluid from the m/c.
Make sure you use the factory vacuum hose location. Or at least make sure there isn't a valve between the booster and vac source
It's only about a 2 hour job. The hardest part is moving the Clevis own the brake pedal.
You need to drill holes Under the wiper grill for the booster bracket.
Remove the m/c. Move Clevis on brake pedal to the other position, add the power brake brake light switch tab, bolt it together and go. Don't even need to open or drain brake fluid from the m/c.
Make sure you use the factory vacuum hose location. Or at least make sure there isn't a valve between the booster and vac source
08-07-2013, 05:28 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Drums seem to work just as we'll but are prone to locking up if not adjusted correctly.
Also, don't bolt it all down until you have the pushrods length adjusted correctly. See the aim for correct pedal heightens adjustment procedure. You can't turn the Clevis at its full extension without pushing the booster away from the firewall. It interferes with the brake pedal.
Also, don't bolt it all down until you have the pushrods length adjusted correctly. See the aim for correct pedal heightens adjustment procedure. You can't turn the Clevis at its full extension without pushing the booster away from the firewall. It interferes with the brake pedal.
