ArtAndScience

Hello everyone,

I am getting ready to do some maintenance work on my 63 SWC w/ 327/340 small block. Much of the engine components have not been worked on for 10 years since my dad had passed. I've been too afraid to really do more than fluid changes and airfilters. It's time to suck it up and do the work she needs.

My list of maintenance items includes:

Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
Valve cover gaskets
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug wires
HEI distributor possibly.

This is a multi-part maintenance question that may be suited for multiple posts but we'll see. If there are other regular maintenance items that I have missed and are a good idea while I'm at it please let me know.


Exhaust Manifold Gaskets:

Right now my current gaskets are in need of replacement. In some spots the exhaust has blown through and I have a roughly 1mm gap between the manifold and block. Not good. See picture:



In order to replace these gaskets I was going to simply jack up the front and put her on jack stands. Then take my jack and slowly drop the exhaust system to get access to clean the old gaskets off and replace with new ones. Is this the right technique for such a job? Am I crazy to keep the exhaust system in one piece while performing this?


Valve Cover Gaskets:

I was getting a little oil leak through from the valve covers so I decided it was time to change those as well.

I've been hearing some clicking from the valves the last few months and I suspected loose rockers. Well I was right, I pulled the cover and it seems some of the rockers are loose. Now in all of the information I have gathered these are pretty easy to tighten up. Video of loose rockers is on


----Based on reply from midyearvette I will not be performing the valve 'tightening' until I have an understanding of solid vs hydraulic lifters in my engine------
Bring cylinder to top dead center just as the exhaust valve closes and the intake is about to open.
Loosen the inner alen key bolt (Im sure it has a name, I don't know it, locking bolt I guess)
Tighten the valve rocker outer bolt to 20ftlbs torque then tighten the inner locks.
Repeat for each cylinder.
----Based on reply from midyearvette I will not be performing the valve 'tightening' until I have an understanding of solid vs hydraulic lifters in my engine------

Please see video, I think it's something that should be fixed but maybe it is normal to have some play? I don't think so..

Spark Plugs:

This is an obvious one. The plugs haven't been changed in 10 years, it's time.
The thing I know to watch for is spark gap and I should match gap for each cylinder as I remove them.
My current problem is I think I've purchased the wrong plugs. Please see picture. The top of the AC7 plug extends well beyond the old A43 plugs.
Solution: go back and buy replacement A43 plugs instead of the ACdelco 7?



Spark plug wires:

Mine are in good shape, but I figured why the hell not. This is a no brainer. Go one at a time as not to mix up firing numbers.

HEI Distributor:

In speaking with another corvette guy at a car show he suggested putting in an HEI distributor to get more bang for my spark. It looks like something like this from Ecklers is bolt on. Will I need anything else to convert to an HEI distributor? With changing plugs/wires do I really need an HEI distributor?

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1962-1975.html

Thank you everyone for your time! You all have been a tremendous help to me in the past and I am looking forward to the great advice this time as well.

midyearvette

i do not believe the exhaust gaskets were used from the factory but i could be wrong....pretty simple with cast stock manifolds
the #43 plug is waay too cold for the street, go with 44 or 45

if i read your post correctly about adjusting your valves, you are not correct!
determine if you have solids or hydraulics first , then find the "sticky" on valve adjustments before you do anything
some not all of the rockers should feel loose when you remove the valve cover, like i said, read the sticky or report back......good luck

you could really do some damage by not reading the sticky and doing what i read in your original post!....careful here!

ArtAndScience

Thank you thank you! Before I go scouring the web for information on how to tell solid vs hydraulic is there an easy way for me to know just by looking at them?

My dad re-built this 327 from scratch and as far as I know he stuck to the original specs. Would the original 327 have solid?

Avoiding damage is exactly why I am here. And maybe it comes down to me just hiring a professional for this work. I thought this would be easy enough I could tackle it on my own. I guess some of the valve info I got from this . Again I really want to understand what I'm doing not just watch youtube and then go break something...

Other than just removing the valve cover I have been hesitant to do anything else until I have a full understanding of what I'm looking at. I'm not mechanically trained, just what I picked up from dad over the years so please forgive what may be stupid questions. I really do my best to research all aspects before diving into a project.

midyearvette

depends on what mill came with it, both were available....also depends on how Dad re built it....solids are adjusted with a feeler gauge, hydraulics are set by feel with 1/2 to 1 turn down after valve contact...
others will chime in as i have to go to work.....

JohnZ

Chevy V-8's don't use exhaust manifold gaskets.

Glue the new valve cover gaskets to the valve covers with Ultra-Copper RTV and set on the bench overnight; oil the head side of the gaskets (so you can remove the valve covers later to lash the valves without damaging the gaskets) and install the valve covers.

You can't just "tighten up" solid lifters - use the EOIC method, with accurate feeler gages.

Those plugs are WAY too cold - get AC R45's or R45S.

AC 508N is the direct replacement wire set.

Forget the HEI distributor - they won't work on a Corvette (too big, won't fit under the ignition top shielding, don't have a tach drive, etc.).

Do you have the GM 1963 Corvette Shop Manual?

ArtAndScience

JohnZ: Thank you as always!

I guess i saw my dad had used gaskets on the manifolds so I just wanted to copy whatever he did. I have the gaskets in hand at this point so I may just continue to use them as planned. Still, I need to drop the exhaust to do so. I don't see any objections to my current tactic.

Will use UC RTV for the valvecover gaskets in order to allow me to open it up in the future without having to get new gaskets each time.

Understood on the valve adjustments. I am not doing anything to them until I can better determine solid vs hydraulic and even then I may seek pro labor instead.

Already have 8 R45S plugs on order and will be returning the RF 7's.

So about the HEI distributor.. I know Ecklers will sell anything I'm willing to buy but it does say 'Corvette HEI Distributor Conversion, 1962-1974'. If the gurus say it's not worth it for my c2 then I'm going to scratch that idea.

Finally, yes I do have the shop manual and will be reviewing my proposed tasks in the manual more carefully this evening. I guess I just come here to ask some of the same questions that may be answered in the event someone has a better technique that what is listed from a 1963 manual. You guys have always been a tremendous help in the right direction for me so I look to the forum for what may appear to be fundamental questions sometimes.

Thank you again!

midyearvette

to determine which you have, solids or hydraulics.....start the mill, cover off and with a wooden hammer handle, hold it firmly against the pushrod end of the rocker for a few seconds, if you hear clacking, that is lash and they are hydraulics, if no change in noise, solids
i do it with the heel of my hand, cold mill....good luck
hiring a pro is not a bad idea, however, this is not that difficult to do for most ....

ArtAndScience

Following up on this thread:

Performed all maintenance as described except for valve adjustments. I believe I have determined them to be solid lifters based on a parts/build list I found in my dads stuff.

Overall I found that at least 1 of my plugs must not have been firing for some time. The new plugs and wires, plus fixing my leaky exhaust manifold gaskets have breathed a new life into her! The car has not driven this well in a few years and I am very happy with the result.

I went with the recommended R45S plugs with 408N plug wires. For my oil change since my dad had traditionally put Mobil 1 Syn I put a K&N oil filter and about 6qts of Mobil1 10w-30. I was reading the oil discussions and wanted to just go with what I know. An oil change is easy enough to do if 10w-30 really doesn't cut it. Used the recommended technique by JohnZ for attaching valve cover gaskets with RTV Copper and they are sealing beautifully. Biggest PITA was replacing the fuel filter and lining up the fuel lines again. Scratched the HEI distributor in place of standard dist cap. I have also been reading the shop manual back and forth for additional upcoming maintenance. My last major item is a coolant flush. I've already got my Zerex G-05 concentrate and distilled water ready it's just a matter of time.

I know my questions sometimes may be no-brainers I like to soundboard off the forum just for sanity sake. You all are so knowledgeable.

Here she is getting her guts tinkered with

Bluestripe67

When you flush the cooling system remove the drain plugs in each side of the block. They are down low. If you disconnect any hoses, do so carefully especially the heater hoses. Don't yank and pull them. You could break the necks off of the heater core. Use a tool that you can just slip under the hose lip and work the hose lose. If you replace them, just slit each one and peel it off. Many of us owners have converted our ignition to a breakerless unit. The conversion is all under the orig. dist. cap. Research it, it's your choice. Don't be afraid to drive it, they need the road time so you develop trust in the car. Good luck, your doing a great job. Dennis

Frankie the Fink

One or more plugs may not have been firing because they were several heat ranges colder than optimal and may have fouled. The R45s and new plug wires clear that up I bet. The HEI distributor is not what you want as JohnZ has noted. They are bulky and without the tach drive as noted.

If you DO have solid lifters (I'm pretty sure you do) then you want an oil high in ZDDP and there are tons of posts on here on that topic. I use Mobil 1 synthetic 15W-50W in my solid lifter car but there are cheaper alternatives.

You have a gorgeous piece of history there and I'm glad to see you're maintaining it.
My newly purchased '63 SWC arrives today - within MINUTES actually !!!

ArtAndScience

Dennis; Thank you very much for the words of encouragement. My dad passed away 10 years ago this last June and I remember him each time I sit in that car. I get this rush of giddy, tingly, happy, sad, grateful, and blessed feelings all at the same time. Even though I was next to him watching and learning I still feel the need to ask questions even simple ones.

I've been reading up on the coolant flush in all the FAQ threads and basically yes if I'm not pulling those block plugs you're not doing the whole system justice. The hoses appear to be in good shape, some of the clamps have started to show some corrosion so I may just opt to put all new hoses and clamps just because.

Frankie the Fink; Thank you as well for the encouragement. I read a lot about the ZDDP additives on the Oil FAQ threads. I read and read and read and at the end I'm split with guys saying yeah full syn 10 or 15w 30 is fine and others that will go full on diesel oil for the additives and detergents. Next oil change I will consider an oil with high ZDDP unless you think it's worth doing now... I really just need someone to say once and for all what should be used but thats like asking a smoker what the best kind of cigarette is.... I'll keep reading