Roller pilot Bearing Removal Experts
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Roller pilot Bearing Removal Experts
Unfortunately I fitted a roller pilot bearing and it has failed!
I have removed the old bronze bushings in the past with grease a piece of dowel, no worries.
However I cannot get the needle bearing type to move out!
Has anyone solved this problem?
I'll be replacing it with the bronze type.
Gary
Perth West Australia
I have removed the old bronze bushings in the past with grease a piece of dowel, no worries.
However I cannot get the needle bearing type to move out!
Has anyone solved this problem?
I'll be replacing it with the bronze type.
Gary
Perth West Australia
#2
Le Mans Master
Thinking that a rollerized pilot bearing was the best thing since 'sliced bread' I added one to my 66 smallblock Coupe. Problems cropped up and pointed to a wasted bearing. Here's a shot of what mine looked like alongside a new roller bearing.
By the way, I used the GM version which has more rollers than the aftermarket version but it didn't seem to help. To remove the remnants, I wound up using a Blind Bearing Puller and found a cheap set at Harbor Freight.
Mike T.
By the way, I used the GM version which has more rollers than the aftermarket version but it didn't seem to help. To remove the remnants, I wound up using a Blind Bearing Puller and found a cheap set at Harbor Freight.
Mike T.
#4
Race Director
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2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2015 C1 of the Year Finalist
I have posted this picture before.
Here is what can happen to the pilot (right) on the end of a tranny input shaft when a roller bearing fails.
Now, with that said, If a roller bearing is used-----------------about the best and only insurance against failure is to THOROUGHLY pack the rollers with TOO MUCH grease.
Here is what can happen to the pilot (right) on the end of a tranny input shaft when a roller bearing fails.
Now, with that said, If a roller bearing is used-----------------about the best and only insurance against failure is to THOROUGHLY pack the rollers with TOO MUCH grease.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thinking that a rollerized pilot bearing was the best thing since 'sliced bread' I added one to my 66 smallblock Coupe. Problems cropped up and pointed to a wasted bearing. Here's a shot of what mine looked like alongside a new roller bearing.
By the way, I used the GM version which has more rollers than the aftermarket version but it didn't seem to help. To remove the remnants, I wound up using a Blind Bearing Puller and found a cheap set at Harbor Freight.
Mike T.
By the way, I used the GM version which has more rollers than the aftermarket version but it didn't seem to help. To remove the remnants, I wound up using a Blind Bearing Puller and found a cheap set at Harbor Freight.
Mike T.
Same exact tool I used.
#6
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This "roller vs solid bronze bushing" thing has been out there quite a while. 20 months ago I pulled my eng/trans and replaced my cl/pp/tob. I did not replace my GM bronze bushing that had been in place since '85 I think. It may well be the original since my memory is not that great WAY BACK then of having changed it. At the very least, I have 104K miles on the current one. If it is the orig, it has 217K miles. I think this my prove the point that the bronze bushing is the right thing to use. Dennis
#8
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
id use a bushing anyway how would they know
I bought the GM fluted pilot bushing they measure out absolutely perfectly better than the Milodons Ive been using. Just had 1300 of trans work done due in part to a tight fitting pilot bushing.
Spend 10 bux and get the good one.
I bought the GM fluted pilot bushing they measure out absolutely perfectly better than the Milodons Ive been using. Just had 1300 of trans work done due in part to a tight fitting pilot bushing.
Spend 10 bux and get the good one.
#9
Melting Slicks
id use a bushing anyway how would they know
I bought the GM fluted pilot bushing they measure out absolutely perfectly better than the Milodons Ive been using. Just had 1300 of trans work done due in part to a tight fitting pilot bushing.
Spend 10 bux and get the good one.
I bought the GM fluted pilot bushing they measure out absolutely perfectly better than the Milodons Ive been using. Just had 1300 of trans work done due in part to a tight fitting pilot bushing.
Spend 10 bux and get the good one.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Interesting story Jack, in Australia we would call the bearing a"Bloody Mongrel of a thing!"
I am trying the tap & bolt method today and if that doesnt work I'll have to source a bearing puller like you used.
wish me luck,
Gary
I am trying the tap & bolt method today and if that doesnt work I'll have to source a bearing puller like you used.
wish me luck,
Gary
#14
This "roller vs solid bronze bushing" thing has been out there quite a while. 20 months ago I pulled my eng/trans and replaced my cl/pp/tob. I did not replace my GM bronze bushing that had been in place since '85 I think. It may well be the original since my memory is not that great WAY BACK then of having changed it. At the very least, I have 104K miles on the current one. If it is the orig, it has 217K miles. I think this my prove the point that the bronze bushing is the right thing to use. Dennis
#15
Le Mans Master
Good luck - it's never a dead end, you just might have to escalate to the next level!
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Success!
Bought a Blind Pilot Bearing puller from the local Auto parts store and out it came. Only cost $AU35, made in Taiwan but it did the job.
Took two attemps, first pulled out the roller cage and the second pulled the bushing out.
Gary
Bought a Blind Pilot Bearing puller from the local Auto parts store and out it came. Only cost $AU35, made in Taiwan but it did the job.
Took two attemps, first pulled out the roller cage and the second pulled the bushing out.
Gary