'67 Wiper motor help - on car tests done
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
'67 Wiper motor help - on car tests done
After 3 years of not having operating windshield wipers on my ‘67, I am now attempting to find out the problem. Yesterday I went thru the “on car” checks. I unplugged the 3 wire plug in connector and had 12V power at the Dark Brown Wire that I verified with a meter. I then tested the voltage (with a test light) at the Yellow wire and the Blue wire – there was none which was correct. I connected the 3 plug connector and ran a known good ground to the motor and it still didn’t work.
I then unplugged the connecter and ran jumper wires to the connections on the wiper motor: Middle connector to the 12V stud on the alternator and separate leads to the Yellow and Blue connectors. Grounding the yellow wire should have produced high speed – it didn’t. Keeping the yellow grounded and then grounding the blue should have produced low speed – it didn’t.
I checked for voltage feedback on the 1 and 3 terminal on the wiper motor and found (with a test light) voltage on the Yellow terminal which indicates a ground problem. There is still voltage feedback even running a “known good ground” to the motor. Does all this mean the motor is NG? My next step would be to take the motor off, clean it out, re-lube it and see if anything changes.
One other point that prior to this the wipers did work but wouldn’t park immediately when turned off. Some time afterward they wouldn’t turn off at all which was when I unplugged them – this was 3 years ago.
I then unplugged the connecter and ran jumper wires to the connections on the wiper motor: Middle connector to the 12V stud on the alternator and separate leads to the Yellow and Blue connectors. Grounding the yellow wire should have produced high speed – it didn’t. Keeping the yellow grounded and then grounding the blue should have produced low speed – it didn’t.
I checked for voltage feedback on the 1 and 3 terminal on the wiper motor and found (with a test light) voltage on the Yellow terminal which indicates a ground problem. There is still voltage feedback even running a “known good ground” to the motor. Does all this mean the motor is NG? My next step would be to take the motor off, clean it out, re-lube it and see if anything changes.
One other point that prior to this the wipers did work but wouldn’t park immediately when turned off. Some time afterward they wouldn’t turn off at all which was when I unplugged them – this was 3 years ago.
#2
You said your wiper motor ran before you unplugged it so the advice I'm giving may not be relevant, but it's worth a try. You just need to remove the washer pump. A 1/4" socket will remove the 4 screws. There is a latching relay in the upper right corner. Perform the tests you did in the beginning. If the relay is good you will see it move. While you are in there you may want to clean the old grease from the pivot points as that was probably your problem with the motor not parking.
Also check the resistor on the terminal board. If it's fried your wipers wont work. With the power off connect your multimeter and set it to ohms (Ώ). It should read about 20.
Also check the resistor on the terminal board. If it's fried your wipers wont work. With the power off connect your multimeter and set it to ohms (Ώ). It should read about 20.
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for your input. I will check those things out.
I also found from Mr. Willcox the instructions for rebuilding and further checking out of the motor
I also found from Mr. Willcox the instructions for rebuilding and further checking out of the motor
Last edited by TWINRAY; 11-19-2013 at 12:59 PM.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I took the wiper motor out of the car, cleaned it up internally and externally, checked the brushes (which were OK), lubed and freed-up pivot points and lightly re-lubed it. The old grease had locked the internal parts up like it was glue. Did a bench test out the car and suprisingly it works.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
..........and here are the photos
Motor removed from car (in the park position)
In the original patina
The oem grease which was like glue and froze up all the internals
According to the rebuild instructions, there should have been a "C" clip (bottom of photo) where there actually was what looked liked a thick washer with the point going thru it either press fitted or peened.
I cleaned out all the old lube and lubed the pivot points with a teflon spray
I tested the resistor that (unless I did something wrong) read about 50 ohms - I think it should have been 20
I lubed it up with a bit of Kendell Blue grease - I think the color is
The brushes were good - here is what you have to fab up to get the armature back in
I just cleaned up (and didn't paint) the case leaving the original patina intact . I retapped the threads in the bolts and on the motor - you want them to freely spin by hand when you put the motor back in
Here are 2 of the bolts holding the motor - the other 2 on the other side have to be delt with by "feel"
In the original patina
The oem grease which was like glue and froze up all the internals
According to the rebuild instructions, there should have been a "C" clip (bottom of photo) where there actually was what looked liked a thick washer with the point going thru it either press fitted or peened.
I cleaned out all the old lube and lubed the pivot points with a teflon spray
I tested the resistor that (unless I did something wrong) read about 50 ohms - I think it should have been 20
I lubed it up with a bit of Kendell Blue grease - I think the color is
The brushes were good - here is what you have to fab up to get the armature back in
I just cleaned up (and didn't paint) the case leaving the original patina intact . I retapped the threads in the bolts and on the motor - you want them to freely spin by hand when you put the motor back in
Here are 2 of the bolts holding the motor - the other 2 on the other side have to be delt with by "feel"