Small block valve covers
12-14-2013, 01:34 PM
#1
Small block valve covers
I am replacing the stock 300hp steel valve covers with salvaged aluminum "Corvette" covers. Do I need to apply a sealant to the cork gaskets? If so, what sealant is recommended? Finally, I know that installing is often a problem due to over tightening and such. What is the correct torque required? Thanks to all!
12-14-2013, 01:55 PM
#2
Race Director
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You are going to get a gazzillion answers, each different. Here's what I do:
I use Permatex Right Stuff to glue the cork gasket to the valve cover. I also smear a layer of Right Stuff on the inside edge of the cork to seal whatever porosity it might have.
After allowing 24 hours for the Right Stuff to cure, I put the valve cover/gasket assembly on the engine dry.
I torque the screws just snug and then wait a day or two. The gasket will take a set at which time I torque the screws snug again. I repeat this two or three times until the screws remain snug, indicating the gasket is fully formed to the shape of the valve cover rails of the head.
That's my process. Works every time.
Jim
I use Permatex Right Stuff to glue the cork gasket to the valve cover. I also smear a layer of Right Stuff on the inside edge of the cork to seal whatever porosity it might have.
After allowing 24 hours for the Right Stuff to cure, I put the valve cover/gasket assembly on the engine dry.
I torque the screws just snug and then wait a day or two. The gasket will take a set at which time I torque the screws snug again. I repeat this two or three times until the screws remain snug, indicating the gasket is fully formed to the shape of the valve cover rails of the head.
That's my process. Works every time.
Jim
12-14-2013, 03:01 PM
#3
You are going to get a gazzillion answers, each different. Here's what I do:
I use Permatex Right Stuff to glue the cork gasket to the valve cover. I also smear a layer of Right Stuff on the inside edge of the cork to seal whatever porosity it might have.
After allowing 24 hours for the Right Stuff to cure, I put the valve cover/gasket assembly on the engine dry.
I torque the screws just snug and then wait a day or two. The gasket will take a set at which time I torque the screws snug again. I repeat this two or three times until the screws remain snug, indicating the gasket is fully formed to the shape of the valve cover rails of the head.
That's my process. Works every time.
Jim
I use Permatex Right Stuff to glue the cork gasket to the valve cover. I also smear a layer of Right Stuff on the inside edge of the cork to seal whatever porosity it might have.
After allowing 24 hours for the Right Stuff to cure, I put the valve cover/gasket assembly on the engine dry.
I torque the screws just snug and then wait a day or two. The gasket will take a set at which time I torque the screws snug again. I repeat this two or three times until the screws remain snug, indicating the gasket is fully formed to the shape of the valve cover rails of the head.
That's my process. Works every time.
Jim
12-14-2013, 03:08 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
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I agree with Jim ,
The only other thing I do is rub a thin film of silicone grease on the bottom surface (facing the head) of the gasket that way it can be removed easily without breaking.
The only other thing I do is rub a thin film of silicone grease on the bottom surface (facing the head) of the gasket that way it can be removed easily without breaking.
Last edited by ohiovet; 12-14-2013 at 03:11 PM.
12-14-2013, 03:15 PM
#5
12-14-2013, 03:40 PM
#6
Race Director
You are going to get a gazzillion answers, each different. Here's what I do:
I use Permatex Right Stuff to glue the cork gasket to the valve cover. I also smear a layer of Right Stuff on the inside edge of the cork to seal whatever porosity it might have.
After allowing 24 hours for the Right Stuff to cure, I put the valve cover/gasket assembly on the engine dry.
I torque the screws just snug and then wait a day or two. The gasket will take a set at which time I torque the screws snug again. I repeat this two or three times until the screws remain snug, indicating the gasket is fully formed to the shape of the valve cover rails of the head.
That's my process. Works every time.
Jim
I use Permatex Right Stuff to glue the cork gasket to the valve cover. I also smear a layer of Right Stuff on the inside edge of the cork to seal whatever porosity it might have.
After allowing 24 hours for the Right Stuff to cure, I put the valve cover/gasket assembly on the engine dry.
I torque the screws just snug and then wait a day or two. The gasket will take a set at which time I torque the screws snug again. I repeat this two or three times until the screws remain snug, indicating the gasket is fully formed to the shape of the valve cover rails of the head.
That's my process. Works every time.
Jim
That's a great way to do it, the only thing I do differently is put a thin film of wheel bearing grease on the surface that contacts the head. If you have a solid lifter cam that requires the occasional adjustment, they come off easily.
