Ken Sungela

So I ordered a coil of 3/16" SS brake tubing and "T" -AN3 fittings from Speedway Motors. I also purchased the $140 37 degree flaring tool to do the single flares on the tubing. Now my electric brake master cylinder has 45 degree connections on it which the manufacturers says to only use the 45 degree (never 37 degree) fittings on it. So I figure I just need an adapter to go from a 37 degree connection to a 3/8" 45 degree connection. I also need an adapter to go to 3/8" 45 degree flare for my flexible hoses at each wheel.

I called classictube.com to find me some adapters. The gentlemen there explained you can certainly double flare SS tubing to 45 degrees but I must use annealed tubing otherwise the tube will crack when doing the second flare. He also said to not use a tubing cutter because it will re-harden the tubing, use a cutoff saw then smooth the edge. I can then use the regular 3/8" 45 degree fittings and be good to go. They also recommend using brass "T"s so I get a good connection with the softer brass material against the harder SS.

So, should I return the stuff I bought and buy the annealed tubing or can i still make the stuff I'm getting from Speedway work. (I'll still need adapters I guess).
Thanks in advance for your help.

Nowhere Man

why not buy the pre bent lines from all the repro parts houses

Ken Sungela

Sorry, more info, SRIII chassis w/ C6 Z06 brake setup.

Sam Kalmuk

If you sent a "sample" (made from regular tubing) of the Brake/Fuel lines & fittings needed, on your SRIII chassis w C6 Brakes, to Classic Tubing (Clarence NY), they can duplicate that with SS lines....That's what I did...and it worked out fine.
Sam

jim lockwood

Adding slightly to Sam's excellent suggestion.... make your "sample" out of soft copper tubing. It's easy to bend and unbend to get the shape right before you commit to having a custom tube made.

Jim

JohnZ

I'd use conventional TBW (Tinned BundyWeld) steel brake line (which will last at LEAST 50 years), and use regular 45* double flares and SAE fittings. That's how I made the brake system on my Grand Sport replica from scratch, and it worked fine; still allows you to run braided stainless flex hoses with AN fittings if you like.

DansYellow66

I would not use stainless steel brake lines. I would suspect they are quite hard to get to seal up at brakes and juction blocks. Steel lines will probably outlast any of us unless you are driving daily on salted streets.

skids

Cunifer tubing.


http://store.fedhillusa.com/?gclid=C...FfBDMgodskwAKg

Rzepka_r

Hi Ken,

Fine Lines in Ohio will also bend up stainless lines using mock-ups you send them - in most cases the pricing was the same as if I bought something out of their catalog that was in stock, sitting on a shelf...

I've never had any sealing issues with stainless lines, but I do some things I mentioned in my build postings that may or may not help with that... Additionally I've always attached them to new components as well, but you would be doing the same...

I pulled the tapered seats out of my master cylinder and used small adapters to be able to use AN lines, for me it just looked better and worked better.. If you are using the ABS unit, the seats will come out easy by "grabbing" them with a sheet metal screw...

Merry Christmas!
Rich

narlee

I used the stainless kit ( I think it was classic tube ) about 16 years ago and it went in very well. I didn't have a good flaring tool at the time and also had a commitment so time was also an issue. With that said if I were to do it over I would probably do it the same.

dplotkin

I built my 61 Plymouth Superstock with SS brake lines and wish I hadn't. The car sees maybe 500 miles a season & lives in a heated garage. The bennifits don't show up, but the risk of leaks and a show type paint job forced me to use DOT 5, which is incompatible with line lock (leaks, found out the hard way), so my drag car has its line lock bypassed.

Stainless lines are great for cars that see regular use and abuse, there is no good reason to use them on a babied hobby car. Besides, with all the Corvette hobby neurosis dwelling on originality and correctness, why?

Dan

DansYellow66

My comment on sealing pertains to there is normally a bit of conforming of the flare to the component fitting seat when first installing new lines. Even with steel lines I usually tighten - loosen - tighten - loosen flared fittings several times to form the flare to the seat tightly. SS lines being of harder material would logically be a little more difficult to conform when installing for the first time. Of course it depends on the quality of the flares and the quality/condition of the seat in the junction or caliper/MC. Good to hear some many of you do not seem to be running into a problem with this and SS. I hate seeping brake and fuel lines.

Ken Sungela

Presents are opened, had breakfast, put together the fooseball table, now back to the corvette...
Thanks for the input. Every $150K+ restomod I see says "..stainless steel brake lines.." so that's what I'm going with. Plus I want the personal satisfaction of bending the lines myself this time. Guess I'll return the stuff to speedway and buy tubing and fittings from classictube and follow their instructions. I'll go with a double flare on their tubing and 45 degree SAE fittings.
Thanks again, happy holidays!

dmaxx3500

im using the ''right stuff'' stainless lines [same place in ohio] on my 69 resto,their lines are double anneeled and seal/bend great,these guys are the most helpful company ive used in ages,they made me a new stainless fuel pump to carb line for my 427/400hp tripower line after i bought their kit and it was for a 435hp car[they never saw my factory 400hp line][i sent them my orig factory line]