jrm5657

OK, preparing to drop an LS engine into a midyear chassis. For those that have done this, I see the motor mount adapter plates have a couple of choices that either move the engine and transmission forward 1 inch or the standard mount leaves the transmission in the stock location which could result in firewall interference with the LS heads.

Anybody have any advice on which mount to use?

Joe Inama

You need to move the engine rubber mount 1 inch forward. The water pump outlets need to be modified also. They will hit the rt upper control arm. I also have 1 3/4 tube shorty headers for that application. Street and performance built them.

00fxd

This is a perfect example of why you can't automatically believe everything you read on the 'net. Years ago, when I did my conversion into my '65 I took the mount plate description "Stock Location" to be true. Turns out what they were referring to was the Left Cyl head. EVERYTHING ELSE was NOT in in the stock location. Clutch cross shaft, drive-shaft length, etc. Had my eng in the frame, body off so I could build my headers to my Hooker Side Pipe exhaust. Then I discovered the discrepancy. The f'n thing was an inch ahead. My headers were up against the steering box when I did put the eng where it belonged. Back then it seemed that everyone copied everyone else making them. Stock location? To this day it p!$$es me off.
This is the style that I ended up with: http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...oducts_id=1320
This is the set that these guys application shows for our cars and I initially ordered: http://dirtydingo.com/store/index.ph...=1_206_305_306
The key is to use the plates that the pedestals are at the end - I don't even know why they show so many part #'s.
Up until now I was a bit uncomfortable with solid mounts but recently, thanks to the guys on this board, I have learned the error of my ways ..

mikey

as you'll quickly learn, no two builds are alike ..
two options as you noted, 1" difference in position. I used the plates that kept the engine back, did not move it forward an inch.

this proved to be well aligned with my TKO600 and factory trans cross beam location, kept the shifter in a stock location up top.

no such thing as "drop in" kit.. depending on what accessories and drive system you use, be prepared to modify various things to fit between the C2 front suspension control arms.

I don't have any firewall interference, but I didn't have factory power brakes either. I'm not sure that either motor position would work with a large booster. Power steering vs manual steering vs rack and pinion conversion matters too.

jrm5657

Thanks for all of the superb reply's and helpful information and advice. At this point, I believe my best path forward will be to slide in a mock up engine tranny combo and determine exactly where I want everything to sit, then I can either purchase the motor mount plates or make my own.