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Fuel Pump Replacement

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Old 02-04-2014, 09:19 AM
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veeeight
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Default Fuel Pump Replacement

Hi All,

I need to replace the fuel pump on my 66 small block.
Can you help me with the best way to hold in the push rod while I remove and replace the pump. Is there any danger that the push rod could come loose and drop in the block or any other problems that might occur.

Thanks Phil
Old 02-04-2014, 09:33 AM
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Mike Geary
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Phil:

There are 2 tricks that make this task easier.

First find the bolt on the face of the engine that lines up with the pushrod bore. You will use a longer bolt to hold the pushrod in place while you swap out the pump (the bolt hole goes all the way through to the pushrod bore).

Before you do that, rotate the engine to TDC. That puts the pushrod at minimum extension, so it's easier to get the pump in place and tightened up.

As I recall the last time I did this, I took the wheel off and went straight in with 1/4" drive tools.

Don't forget to reinstall the short bolt with sealer!

Mike
Old 02-04-2014, 11:07 AM
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bluestreak63
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The push rod will not fall into the engine, as it contacts the eccentric part of the camshaft. It may fall out, but it goes back in just as easy.

As Mike said, when I did mine, I removed the bolt from the front of the block and got a longer one to hold the push rod. Don't over tighten the longer bolt as to damage the push rod. Just want it contacting it enough to hold it in place.

After removing the pump, scrap all the old gasket material from the mating surfaces.

Make sure the fuel pump lever is installed below the push rod.

If you're replacing your fuel pump, best to check the oil and if it smells like gas, change your oil after installing your new fuel pump.

Yes, and don't forget to reinstall the shorter bolt.
Old 02-04-2014, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Geary
Phil:

There are 2 tricks that make this task easier.

First find the bolt on the face of the engine that lines up with the pushrod bore. You will use a longer bolt to hold the pushrod in place while you swap out the pump (the bolt hole goes all the way through to the pushrod bore).

Before you do that, rotate the engine to TDC. That puts the pushrod at minimum extension, so it's easier to get the pump in place and tightened up.

As I recall the last time I did this, I took the wheel off and went straight in with 1/4" drive tools.

Don't forget to reinstall the short bolt with sealer!

Mike
Very good advice…….although this has been discussed quite a few times before this.

A few additional comments: I would use a brass holding bolt to avoid scoring the pushrod. Or just use a used/deburred steel bolt and a light touch with the wrench.

Make sure the engine is TDC compression stroke and not TDC exhaust stroke. Some folks don't differentiate between the two, they just put the timing mark at zero and assume (hope) all is correct.

FWIW.

Larry
Old 02-04-2014, 12:39 PM
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veeeight
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Thanks for all your help.
Is the bolt to be taken out and replaced with a longer one, the orange painted one in the picture, opposite the hose clip and in line with the fuel pump to block bolt.

Thanks Phil
Old 02-04-2014, 02:49 PM
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Mike67nv
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Originally Posted by veeeight
Thanks for all your help.
Is the bolt to be taken out and replaced with a longer one, the orange painted one in the picture, opposite the hose clip and in line with the fuel pump to block bolt.

Thanks Phil
Yes, that’s the bolt.

Although there is nothing wrong with the longer bolt method, it’s not necessary. Just dip the push rod in heavy grease and push it up into the block – the grease will hold it in place. That’s also the way we installed them in Chevy engines at the Fremont plant.
Old 02-04-2014, 04:01 PM
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JohnZ
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Here's the bolt - it's the upper of the two 3/8"-16 bosses.
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Old 02-04-2014, 04:17 PM
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62Jeff
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Originally Posted by Mike67nv
Yes, that’s the bolt.

Although there is nothing wrong with the longer bolt method, it’s not necessary. Just dip the push rod in heavy grease and push it up into the block – the grease will hold it in place. That’s also the way we installed them in Chevy engines at the Fremont plant.
But that requires removal of a plate in order to get the rod out so that it can be dipped in grease. Extra work.
Old 02-04-2014, 04:24 PM
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Mike Geary
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Default One more "lesson learned"

When you tighten down the FP bolts, switch back and forth frequently.

This ensures the FP lever will stay put on the pushrod end and not slip off to the side. If that happens --a bent pushrod and no fuel. Don't ask how I know that....

Mike
Old 02-04-2014, 04:58 PM
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There is a third way that I have used a couple times on the road when I had a pump failure. I carry a used hacksaw blade with my tools. With the engine at TDC on the firing stroke, I reach in with two fingers and lift the rod up, then slide the hacksaw blade under the end of it. I then carefully align the new pump lever under the blade and push it into the cavity as far as it will go until I have to pull out the blade. Then without twisting the pump or moving it sideways, I just push it in the rest of the way. There will be some pressure there against the lever but I've always been able to overcome that until I can get the bolts started.
All I can say is that it has worked for me. One time on a car with A/C.!

Verne
Old 02-04-2014, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by W Guy
There is a third way that I have used a couple times on the road when I had a pump failure. I carry a used hacksaw blade with my tools. With the engine at TDC on the firing stroke, I reach in with two fingers and lift the rod up, then slide the hacksaw blade under the end of it. I then carefully align the new pump lever under the blade and push it into the cavity as far as it will go until I have to pull out the blade. Then without twisting the pump or moving it sideways, I just push it in the rest of the way. There will be some pressure there against the lever but I've always been able to overcome that until I can get the bolts started.
All I can say is that it has worked for me. One time on a car with A/C.!

Verne
Yep, that works too. What also works is a cable operated four finger thingy that grabs the pushrod and holds it up out of the way.
Old 02-04-2014, 07:22 PM
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Mike67nv
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Originally Posted by 62Jeff
But that requires removal of a plate in order to get the rod out so that it can be dipped in grease. Extra work.
Yes, but as infrequently as fuel pumps need replacing, I would want to replace the plate gasket at the same time. Grease was the factory method and also eliminates the possibility of damaging the push rod by torquing a bolt into it.

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