Fuel Pump Replacement
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Fuel Pump Replacement
Hi All,
I need to replace the fuel pump on my 66 small block.
Can you help me with the best way to hold in the push rod while I remove and replace the pump. Is there any danger that the push rod could come loose and drop in the block or any other problems that might occur.
Thanks Phil
I need to replace the fuel pump on my 66 small block.
Can you help me with the best way to hold in the push rod while I remove and replace the pump. Is there any danger that the push rod could come loose and drop in the block or any other problems that might occur.
Thanks Phil
#2
Melting Slicks
Phil:
There are 2 tricks that make this task easier.
First find the bolt on the face of the engine that lines up with the pushrod bore. You will use a longer bolt to hold the pushrod in place while you swap out the pump (the bolt hole goes all the way through to the pushrod bore).
Before you do that, rotate the engine to TDC. That puts the pushrod at minimum extension, so it's easier to get the pump in place and tightened up.
As I recall the last time I did this, I took the wheel off and went straight in with 1/4" drive tools.
Don't forget to reinstall the short bolt with sealer!
Mike
There are 2 tricks that make this task easier.
First find the bolt on the face of the engine that lines up with the pushrod bore. You will use a longer bolt to hold the pushrod in place while you swap out the pump (the bolt hole goes all the way through to the pushrod bore).
Before you do that, rotate the engine to TDC. That puts the pushrod at minimum extension, so it's easier to get the pump in place and tightened up.
As I recall the last time I did this, I took the wheel off and went straight in with 1/4" drive tools.
Don't forget to reinstall the short bolt with sealer!
Mike
#3
Safety Car
The push rod will not fall into the engine, as it contacts the eccentric part of the camshaft. It may fall out, but it goes back in just as easy.
As Mike said, when I did mine, I removed the bolt from the front of the block and got a longer one to hold the push rod. Don't over tighten the longer bolt as to damage the push rod. Just want it contacting it enough to hold it in place.
After removing the pump, scrap all the old gasket material from the mating surfaces.
Make sure the fuel pump lever is installed below the push rod.
If you're replacing your fuel pump, best to check the oil and if it smells like gas, change your oil after installing your new fuel pump.
Yes, and don't forget to reinstall the shorter bolt.
As Mike said, when I did mine, I removed the bolt from the front of the block and got a longer one to hold the push rod. Don't over tighten the longer bolt as to damage the push rod. Just want it contacting it enough to hold it in place.
After removing the pump, scrap all the old gasket material from the mating surfaces.
Make sure the fuel pump lever is installed below the push rod.
If you're replacing your fuel pump, best to check the oil and if it smells like gas, change your oil after installing your new fuel pump.
Yes, and don't forget to reinstall the shorter bolt.
#4
Race Director
Phil:
There are 2 tricks that make this task easier.
First find the bolt on the face of the engine that lines up with the pushrod bore. You will use a longer bolt to hold the pushrod in place while you swap out the pump (the bolt hole goes all the way through to the pushrod bore).
Before you do that, rotate the engine to TDC. That puts the pushrod at minimum extension, so it's easier to get the pump in place and tightened up.
As I recall the last time I did this, I took the wheel off and went straight in with 1/4" drive tools.
Don't forget to reinstall the short bolt with sealer!
Mike
There are 2 tricks that make this task easier.
First find the bolt on the face of the engine that lines up with the pushrod bore. You will use a longer bolt to hold the pushrod in place while you swap out the pump (the bolt hole goes all the way through to the pushrod bore).
Before you do that, rotate the engine to TDC. That puts the pushrod at minimum extension, so it's easier to get the pump in place and tightened up.
As I recall the last time I did this, I took the wheel off and went straight in with 1/4" drive tools.
Don't forget to reinstall the short bolt with sealer!
Mike
A few additional comments: I would use a brass holding bolt to avoid scoring the pushrod. Or just use a used/deburred steel bolt and a light touch with the wrench.
Make sure the engine is TDC compression stroke and not TDC exhaust stroke. Some folks don't differentiate between the two, they just put the timing mark at zero and assume (hope) all is correct.
FWIW.
Larry
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
#6
Melting Slicks
Although there is nothing wrong with the longer bolt method, it’s not necessary. Just dip the push rod in heavy grease and push it up into the block – the grease will hold it in place. That’s also the way we installed them in Chevy engines at the Fremont plant.
#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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Here's the bolt - it's the upper of the two 3/8"-16 bosses.
#8
Tech Contributor
Yes, that’s the bolt.
Although there is nothing wrong with the longer bolt method, it’s not necessary. Just dip the push rod in heavy grease and push it up into the block – the grease will hold it in place. That’s also the way we installed them in Chevy engines at the Fremont plant.
Although there is nothing wrong with the longer bolt method, it’s not necessary. Just dip the push rod in heavy grease and push it up into the block – the grease will hold it in place. That’s also the way we installed them in Chevy engines at the Fremont plant.
#9
Melting Slicks
One more "lesson learned"
When you tighten down the FP bolts, switch back and forth frequently.
This ensures the FP lever will stay put on the pushrod end and not slip off to the side. If that happens --a bent pushrod and no fuel. Don't ask how I know that....
Mike
This ensures the FP lever will stay put on the pushrod end and not slip off to the side. If that happens --a bent pushrod and no fuel. Don't ask how I know that....
Mike
#10
Drifting
There is a third way that I have used a couple times on the road when I had a pump failure. I carry a used hacksaw blade with my tools. With the engine at TDC on the firing stroke, I reach in with two fingers and lift the rod up, then slide the hacksaw blade under the end of it. I then carefully align the new pump lever under the blade and push it into the cavity as far as it will go until I have to pull out the blade. Then without twisting the pump or moving it sideways, I just push it in the rest of the way. There will be some pressure there against the lever but I've always been able to overcome that until I can get the bolts started.
All I can say is that it has worked for me. One time on a car with A/C.!
Verne
All I can say is that it has worked for me. One time on a car with A/C.!
Verne
#11
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
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There is a third way that I have used a couple times on the road when I had a pump failure. I carry a used hacksaw blade with my tools. With the engine at TDC on the firing stroke, I reach in with two fingers and lift the rod up, then slide the hacksaw blade under the end of it. I then carefully align the new pump lever under the blade and push it into the cavity as far as it will go until I have to pull out the blade. Then without twisting the pump or moving it sideways, I just push it in the rest of the way. There will be some pressure there against the lever but I've always been able to overcome that until I can get the bolts started.
All I can say is that it has worked for me. One time on a car with A/C.!
Verne
All I can say is that it has worked for me. One time on a car with A/C.!
Verne
#12
Melting Slicks
Yes, but as infrequently as fuel pumps need replacing, I would want to replace the plate gasket at the same time. Grease was the factory method and also eliminates the possibility of damaging the push rod by torquing a bolt into it.