66 restoration
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
66 restoration
I'm in the process of sandblasting my frame, suspension and everything else that was bolted on. I was planning on painting gray the driveshaft, half-shafts, rearend and other parts that were originally bare metal. After sandblasting and seeing how good the bare metal looked, I wondering if I painted it with POR15 CLEAR if it would remain that way permanently. Has anyone done this or have a learned opinion about it?
Also, a friend of mine used POR15 Glossy Black on his frame and said it looked great for a few weeks and then turned chalky. He said it was not left out in the sun, because he knew it was UV sensitive. He thinks I should paint mine with POR15 Glossy Black and then apply POR15 CLEAR. I have talked with POR15 Technical Support and they claim it is not necessary to apply the CLEAR, because the Glossy Black should remain glossy as long as it is not exposed to sun. Anyone had experience with this?
Also, a friend of mine used POR15 Glossy Black on his frame and said it looked great for a few weeks and then turned chalky. He said it was not left out in the sun, because he knew it was UV sensitive. He thinks I should paint mine with POR15 Glossy Black and then apply POR15 CLEAR. I have talked with POR15 Technical Support and they claim it is not necessary to apply the CLEAR, because the Glossy Black should remain glossy as long as it is not exposed to sun. Anyone had experience with this?
#2
Team Owner
Have the parts powder coated BLACK and then use a 'clear powder coat' over that...
Some parts are Grey in color...
Some parts are Grey in color...
#3
Drifting
Member Since: Jun 2010
Location: Ball Ground Georgia
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For some reason I thought POR (paint over rust) expected a top coat after it was applied. No top coat probably explains why the POR didn't last. If you want a natural look there is a stainless steel paint in a rattle can that looks great but I don't know how durable it would be in the chassis area. I agree if you are looking for a long lasting finish then powdercoating is the way to go.
#4
Team Owner
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I used that junk paint on my Chevelles frame. I wish I never seen it and just painted with regular paint Or powered coated. That paint is not all it's cracked up to be.
#5
Drifting
I dont know why lots of guys want to use that junk. If you want to paint a suspension part, use any quality paint. If you want it bare, wipe iit down every couple months with WD40. If you powdercoat and after scratch it, you need to touch it up with paint anyway.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
For some reason I thought POR (paint over rust) expected a top coat after it was applied. No top coat probably explains why the POR didn't last. If you want a natural look there is a stainless steel paint in a rattle can that looks great but I don't know how durable it would be in the chassis area. I agree if you are looking for a long lasting finish then powdercoating is the way to go.
#7
Safety Car
I've used eastwood low gloss diamond clear and eastwood low gloss powdercoat in the past. The eastwood satin clear powdercoat worked the best. Detail gray from eastwood also looks good if you cant powdercoat.
#8
Team Owner
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You won't be saying that after a year or so of driving