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Old 02-14-2014, 08:35 PM
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Gmont
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I'm in the process of sandblasting my frame, suspension and everything else that was bolted on. I was planning on painting gray the driveshaft, half-shafts, rearend and other parts that were originally bare metal. After sandblasting and seeing how good the bare metal looked, I wondering if I painted it with POR15 CLEAR if it would remain that way permanently. Has anyone done this or have a learned opinion about it?

Also, a friend of mine used POR15 Glossy Black on his frame and said it looked great for a few weeks and then turned chalky. He said it was not left out in the sun, because he knew it was UV sensitive. He thinks I should paint mine with POR15 Glossy Black and then apply POR15 CLEAR. I have talked with POR15 Technical Support and they claim it is not necessary to apply the CLEAR, because the Glossy Black should remain glossy as long as it is not exposed to sun. Anyone had experience with this?
Old 02-14-2014, 08:46 PM
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66jack
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Have the parts powder coated BLACK and then use a 'clear powder coat' over that...

Some parts are Grey in color...
Old 02-14-2014, 08:52 PM
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steveale
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For some reason I thought POR (paint over rust) expected a top coat after it was applied. No top coat probably explains why the POR didn't last. If you want a natural look there is a stainless steel paint in a rattle can that looks great but I don't know how durable it would be in the chassis area. I agree if you are looking for a long lasting finish then powdercoating is the way to go.
Old 02-14-2014, 09:02 PM
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Nowhere Man
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I used that junk paint on my Chevelles frame. I wish I never seen it and just painted with regular paint Or powered coated. That paint is not all it's cracked up to be.
Old 02-14-2014, 09:37 PM
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Boyan
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I dont know why lots of guys want to use that junk. If you want to paint a suspension part, use any quality paint. If you want it bare, wipe iit down every couple months with WD40. If you powdercoat and after scratch it, you need to touch it up with paint anyway.
Old 02-16-2014, 04:28 PM
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Gmont
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Originally Posted by steveale
For some reason I thought POR (paint over rust) expected a top coat after it was applied. No top coat probably explains why the POR didn't last. If you want a natural look there is a stainless steel paint in a rattle can that looks great but I don't know how durable it would be in the chassis area. I agree if you are looking for a long lasting finish then powdercoating is the way to go.
Too late now. I brushed on two coats of POR15 Clear yesterday on the rear-end, drive & half shafts, etc. the look is great and the finish seems super hard. Have to wait and see how it looks in a few years. Thanks for info.
Old 02-16-2014, 05:29 PM
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65silververt
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I've used eastwood low gloss diamond clear and eastwood low gloss powdercoat in the past. The eastwood satin clear powdercoat worked the best. Detail gray from eastwood also looks good if you cant powdercoat.
Old 02-16-2014, 06:48 PM
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Nowhere Man
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Originally Posted by Gmont
Too late now. I brushed on two coats of POR15 Clear yesterday on the rear-end, drive & half shafts, etc. the look is great and the finish seems super hard. Have to wait and see how it looks in a few years. Thanks for info.
You won't be saying that after a year or so of driving

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