'63 SWC Valve Cover Decals
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
'63 SWC Valve Cover Decals
OK - I did a forum search and looked at the AIM. The AIM only shows one 327 decal on one side. Soooo...my questions are; on a 250hp engine with the steel stamped, orange-painted valve covers:
1) Does this VIN have the large triangle or small triangle valve covers ?
2) I assume 327 decals go on both sides ? Right ?
3) Are there are any HP decals (e.g. 250) and if so, are they on one or both sides ? And are they located just below the 327 decals ?
Thanks !
1) Does this VIN have the large triangle or small triangle valve covers ?
2) I assume 327 decals go on both sides ? Right ?
3) Are there are any HP decals (e.g. 250) and if so, are they on one or both sides ? And are they located just below the 327 decals ?
Thanks !
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 10-07-2016 at 09:11 AM.
#2
Drifting
Frank
According to the newest NCRS manual up to around S# 13000 you should have the small triangle covers.
There should be 2 decals on both covers. HP decal should be centered under top decal just under the rounded edge on the side of the cover.
Mark
According to the newest NCRS manual up to around S# 13000 you should have the small triangle covers.
There should be 2 decals on both covers. HP decal should be centered under top decal just under the rounded edge on the side of the cover.
Mark
#4
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HP decal on BOTH valve covers ??
#5
Melting Slicks
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My newest 63-64 NCRS Judging Guide (p 81) says "base engines, 250 horsepower, have no decals indicating horsepower."
#9
Team Owner
Mark/locate spot for decal...put ONE decal in water at a time...wet the valve cover...get decal and place on cover...get it in place....then smooth with a wet finger...then put some water on decal and let it air dry...
Repeat on other side..
Thats how i did mine on L79....
#10
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-Bruce
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#13
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Oh! And the AFB carb and Edelbrock "old school" #3CBX intake manifold were on the car when I bought it.
The car runs so good I just can't bring myself to mess with anything on the motor -- which should make MikeM happy...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-13-2014 at 01:04 PM.
#14
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The decals are quite fragile and you can't manhandle them at ALL !
Put the smallest drop of Joy or Dawn in the WARM water solution to make the decals as slickery as possible. Test them with a wet finger after a while and when they move around on the backing paper easily its time to slide them into position on the engine part. You can reposition them some while they are still wet but be careful. Hold one edge with a wet fingertip and CAREFULLY use a wet sponge to slide any air bubbles out from under the decal using the LIGHTEST pressure possible. Let dry overnight.
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#19
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Haven't built many "old school" model airplanes - have you ???
The decals are quite fragile and you can't manhandle them at ALL !
Put the smallest drop of Joy or Dawn in the WARM water solution to make the decals as slickery as possible. Test them with a wet finger after a while and when they move around on the backing paper easily its time to slide them into position on the engine part. You can reposition them some while they are still wet but be careful. Hold one edge with a wet fingertip and CAREFULLY use a wet sponge to slide any air bubbles out from under the decal using the LIGHTEST pressure possible. Let dry overnight.
The decals are quite fragile and you can't manhandle them at ALL !
Put the smallest drop of Joy or Dawn in the WARM water solution to make the decals as slickery as possible. Test them with a wet finger after a while and when they move around on the backing paper easily its time to slide them into position on the engine part. You can reposition them some while they are still wet but be careful. Hold one edge with a wet fingertip and CAREFULLY use a wet sponge to slide any air bubbles out from under the decal using the LIGHTEST pressure possible. Let dry overnight.
#20
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I don't have the least interest in fooling anybody. My cars speak for themselves.