Old Vet

Ok been thinking about this for awhile without much success so I thought I would ask the forum for suggestions.

I need to figure out how to winch my 62 restomod into an enclosed trailer - basically where to attach cable.

The car sits really low so I'm stumped on where to attach cable. Wasn't planning on running front plate or bumperettes but if I could attach cable to winch car on to it....

Can't drive the car in as its a hardtop only car and don't want to take hard top on & off when putting into trailer. My trailer doesn't have the side access door for but it wouldn't help any way as the doors would not clear the trailer inner fenders...

Any suggestions?

jmschmit

Use axle straps around a frame to pull car into trailer then tie car down.Hope this helps BILL.

Old Vet

Thanks but the car sits too low to attach without damaging the body/paint...

Hitch

Wrap it around the front cossmember and you should have no problems...
Hitch

StingU2

Old Vet
First let me ask... Have you ever had your car in this trailer before doing a restomod to it? If so, is there much room for you to get around the car when in the trailer?

-Bruce

Old Vet

I have had the car in the trailer but there's not much room on the sides, its a standard hallmark 28' trailer. At that time there wasn't a motor or trans, interior or anything in to add weight to the car. Once done it would be too heavy to push in by hand. I have a wireless remote for my winch so I can walk along side it to steer and load / unload by myself.....just need to attach cable to car, probably going to use the front license plate / bumperettes area somehow....

1COOL60

Sounds like you need to mount the winch on the floor, or mount a ****** block to the floor so the cable will pull along the floor.
160

vetrod62

I had slotted tie down brackets welded low on the front cross member to tie this car down in the trailer so we could race it. The trailer still had to be jacked up stupid high so the front pan would not hit the door hinge when winched in.

Bud2

With my '64 (the same????), I load rear first and so I installed a tow hook there. The bar bolted to the frame cross rail is the main strength, while the two side bars hold hold hook quite firm. The actual hook is a long bolt that is bolted to the end frame rail. Is that clear??? Seems to be strong enough.


These are the parts I made up.



This is the shot of the front section.


This is the back section.


And this is what shows.


I also had to build some ramp extensions from wood to clear when loading. I simply put the extensions on the end of the trailer ramps to raise them 6 inches. It all works fine. I also use a ****** block but only to ease the pressure on the winch's brake when I stop while mid-loading. I don't have pics of the extensions but can take some of you need a look.

Bud.

cbernhardt

Are you using a stock suspension in front?
My '59 restomod uses a C4 front suspension in front and it sits pretty low. I welded two brackets onto the bottom of the front cross member and I use them to attach the tie down straps. I can also winch the car onto my trailer using these brackets to attach the winch cable. I have an enclosed trailer also, but it has really good access to the front, side, and rear so access to the car after it is on the trailer is no problem for me.

Charles

Redbird

Drive it in and climb out the window!

63Corvette

I concur. BTW, If you break your wench, does your insurance cover your wench replacement

Old Vet

1Cool60 - Winch is mounted on the floor.

Bud2 - might work but with a 28' trailer that would put a lot of weight to the back of the trailer and cause weight distribution problems.

cbernhardt - I am using an Art Morrison chassis with IFS (not corvette) and Ford 9" in rear.

Redbird; "drive in crawl out window" - Not going to play Dukes of Hazard with all the money spent on paint and interior, plus don't bend like that anymore….

63Corvette - I am using a 9000# warn winch mounted on the floor in a removable cradle so I doubt it will break the winch...

Thanks for all the suggestions but probably going to fab something up hidden behind the bumperettes, this would prevent damage to the paint & body. Might have to ask Herb aka FirstGear as his sits pretty low…..

Old Vet

Vetrod62-

Were you using an enclosed trailer or open trailer? With my open trailer I have to use longer ramps to get the angle to work but with my enclosed trailer the door flops down & loads with no problem, or did when building it, still to try with motor, trans, exhaust, interior, hardtop installed…

Could you send or post me some of your pics of the frame mounted brackets?

sshort67

You know you have it bad when you study the pictures of somebody elses frame. Not to look for flaws but looking as it is a piece of art. Is there a cure for this?

62corvette

I use a tow strap around the third member. Then I take a length of 4x4 that I have "customized" to fit under the front of the third member and radiator support area. The strap then attaches to the winch hook. With the strap under the 4x4, it keeps it low enough that it clears the lower fiberglass valance.

Old Vet

I don't understand what your saying? or getting at?

KC John

Too bad you went to all that trouble. If your reflexes are still fast enough, you could launch into the trailer like your avatar. You will just have to be pretty quick on the brakes.

vetrod62

Enclosed trailer. Pix of the brackets. I criss/cross my tie downs so the pull is straight ahead on the brackets. I do have a jump door, but the car sits to low clear the wheel wells. I winch this car in and out.

vetrod62

Yea, that might work with my car, but this is a friends car and it does not do the big wheelies.