burtonbl103

What has everyone used out there.

I pulled the pan and am doing the rear main seal.

I see there are one piece ones out there instead of the 4 piece.

I found this here searching on the forum

55-74 OS-5197C-1 Dip stick in block, left side
TCS-5124-1 Frt. oil pan seal 1/4" thick, same as rear oil pan seal
OS-34509T One piece, hole for dip stick on left side only


fel pro
http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/OS-34509T/10002/-1


anyone do this ?

Thanks

burtonbl103

also mine is a 61 fuel injection it is the larger pan with the trap door if it matters.

I pulled the pan and soda blasted it and painted it while I had it off and the clutch cover.

burtonbl103

pan came out nice.

VetteRed1965

55-74 sbc's used the thin seal (felpro 34509t) and 75-85 used the thick front seal (34510t)

I would use a straight edge and measure the crank opening. If it measures 2-1/4" , the 09 will work. If it 2-3/8" you need a -10

burtonbl103

burtonbl103

thakns going to go do that now.

6T5RUSH

burtonbl103,

I just replaced my pan and used the 509t (the thinner one) that FEL-PRO makes. It helps getting a good seal between the pan and the block by using a dab of RTV black on the 4 corners of the gasket. I also put a 1/4" bead of this sealant on both the rear radius and front radius of the oil pan itself b/4 installing her. I let the sealant setup for an hour before the actual install. Once installed (those 4 plastic bolts that come with the gasket really work nicely holding her up...be sure to push those tabs at the rear into the slots of the block), I lightly snug all the bolts and then set my torque wrench (the torque setting is in inch lbs in the service manual) to 7 ft. lbs. for the side bolts and 14 ft. lbs. on the corner bolts. I alternate rear side bolt from one side to the front side bolt of the opposite side sneaking up on the torque setting, doing the corner bolts alternately last.

Lastly, I let the car sit for a day to allow that sealant to setup before starting her up and checking for leaks. This approach worked for me.

Good luck!

Jim
In God We Trust!

burtonbl103

that's exactly what I am going to do thank you so much

Also here are some pics is this what you mean ?

burtonbl103

front

burtonbl103

Back

burtonbl103

also am I missing an oil pan baffle ?

VetteRed1965

felpro 34509t is what you need. The measurement on the front is the one that counts...
Like mentioned a dab a rtv in the corners will help. Do you have the trap door baffle in your oil pan ?

burtonbl103

yes pan has trap door in it


Thakn You

burtonbl103

Question while I have it apart.

My pan has the trap door and there is no "baffle off the bottom of the engine

Also the sump is approx. 3/4 in from the bottom of the pan.

Just confirming these things before I button it back up.

Thanks

6T5RUSH

burtonbl103,

You're missing the windage tray held in place by 5 long studs which also serve to hold your main bearing caps in place.

Here's a fleabay ad for a windage tray and 5 studs:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-70-Z28-4bolt-main-WINDAGE-TRAY-MAIN-BOLTS-NUTS-NOS-/171277793903?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e0f3ba6f&vxp=mtr
Here's a view of those 5 studs in place on my motor:



Jim
In God We Trust!

JohnZ

62's didn't use a windage tray with the trap-door pan - that started with the midyear era.

I prefer the pickup to be about 3/8" from the bottom of the pan; 3/4" is excessive.

6T5RUSH

JohnZ,

My bad. Didn't know they built the earlier small blocks without them. But if the OP likes to rev her up high regularly, wouldn't the windage tray aid in keeping the oil from clinging to the crank and keep her lubricated on top?

Jim
In God We Trust!

burtonbl103

DO I have to buy a new sump or can the existing one rotate to get down closer ?
Thanks

burtonbl103

also my car is an original Solid lifter 315 HP fuel injected car 61.

Has the correct trap door larger 3 step pan. I have been researching the web and dot see where 61 or 61 ever had the baffle which would make sense. Now have to take a look at the sump. Thank you for all the help. I really love working on the old cars. Im 40 and this has always been one of my dream cars.

chris ritchie

You can rotate that oil pump pickup arm to get it lower in the pan. But moving it loosens it up. You do not want that arm falling off. You'll lose oil pressure. I believe racers braze the arm in place once they get it adjusted. I used the following retainer when I did mine.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...23620/10002/-1

Seemed cheap insurance at the time. Of course Chevrolet made tens of millions of these engines and didn't see the need.