Please help on a C1 Decode
03-28-2014, 08:59 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Please help on a C1 Decode
I appreciate some help on this. A guy dropped a C1 off at my shop and wants to sell it. He claimed it was an original 270 hp dual quad car. This guy has owned the car the last 40 years. I can honestly say I choose to bring it to the forum instead of trying to figure it out myself 
. thanks.....Mark
. thanks.....Mark
Last edited by Marks Hotrod Garage; 03-28-2014 at 09:12 PM.
03-28-2014, 09:08 PM
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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2015 C2 of Year Finalist
What are we to decode?
03-28-2014, 09:10 PM
#3
Team Owner
Are you asking what it's worth, or if someone wants to buy it?
03-28-2014, 09:15 PM
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
I was trying to look up this engine stamp to see if this was an original motor?
I really dont like to ask the what its worth question. i dont know just feel a little funny about that one. It has to be worth $40K anyway.
I really dont like to ask the what its worth question. i dont know just feel a little funny about that one. It has to be worth $40K anyway.
03-28-2014, 09:26 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
CU is a 270 corvette engine with manual transmission. most likely a four speed. first number shows it is the 207th car built. engine assembly date august 1, 1960. engine broach marks appear correct. if you want a break down of the vin tag, the first 1 is 1961, 0867 is the model series:corvette, S is the assembly plant, st. Louis. and 100207 is the 207th car built.
Last edited by scopeli; 03-28-2014 at 09:51 PM.
03-28-2014, 09:33 PM
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
That has to be good then. so where does a guy find the correct intake and carborator for this car? He said he would take $43K for it so that doesnt sound too bad. Needs some paintwork but otherwise not too bad.
03-28-2014, 09:39 PM
#9
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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03-28-2014, 09:44 PM
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
03-28-2014, 10:00 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
without a trade in closer to $4000 for the carbs, $300 for the intake, $200 for a reproduction air cleaner, $100 for ncrs correct fuel filter assembly. then you need correct fuel lines. other items such as a correct master cylinder can quickly add up.
Last edited by scopeli; 03-28-2014 at 10:05 PM.
03-28-2014, 10:36 PM
#13
Team Owner
Based on available information, I'd give $43K for it.
03-29-2014, 06:04 AM
#14
Safety Car
Looks like a very nice '61. I see it has provisions for 2 tops. Is there only a soft top? The mount studs are there for a hardtop.
It's quite nice the way it is, but since it appears to have it's original block, it may be a perfect candidate for "upgrade" back to original for a new owner.
The CU code for the 270hp was used from 1958 to 1961.
In addition the the correct carburetors, intake, linkage, fuel filter, it is possible that the engine no longer has the solid lifter camshaft and solid lifters. Since the owner had it so long, he might know what's in there. It has the high RPm redline tach which helps confirm the SHP engine.
Also missing is the correct aluminum radiator(repro copper is in there now), expansion tank, and associated water pump with bypass fitting on top. Copper rads were used for the base and other hydraulic camshaft engines(245hp 2x4 WCFB, 275hp fuelie) up to about vin #1700, The 270hp used the 3151116 aluminum up to vin #1700, along with the separate 3151016 expansion tank. This also required a '209 water pump. Rare, but repros are nice for about $175. After #1700 the aluminum rad changed to 3150916.
You also may want to check that vin derivative stamp again on the engine pad. The '61 prefixed the year in front of the vin derivative. I would expect it to be....1100207. I can't recall for sure but this may have started later in production. Where this car is likely in the first week of MY '61 production, that "1" prefix may have been delayed, maybe after vin #1700 like the other stuff I mentioned. Not sure.
There is a engine block cast date, cast embossed at the right rear block just below and to the right of the distributor on the flat surface of the block. Can you see that? I'd expect it to be late July, like a G230 or so. (e.g. July 23, 1960)
e.g. My '61 engine CU stamp pad reads 1102436 FI026CU with a cast date J200(Oct 20, 1960)
Whatever happens, I also would get that rubber hose and plastic fuel filter the heck outa' there! The original pump to glass bowl filter line was likely cut and the hose clamped on. I'd make a hard line to connect pump to carb right away. You could add a aftermarket hard line fitting fuel filter too.
Good luck with your customer, tell him it's a nice car! Love the color combo.
Rich
It's quite nice the way it is, but since it appears to have it's original block, it may be a perfect candidate for "upgrade" back to original for a new owner.
The CU code for the 270hp was used from 1958 to 1961.
In addition the the correct carburetors, intake, linkage, fuel filter, it is possible that the engine no longer has the solid lifter camshaft and solid lifters. Since the owner had it so long, he might know what's in there. It has the high RPm redline tach which helps confirm the SHP engine.
Also missing is the correct aluminum radiator(repro copper is in there now), expansion tank, and associated water pump with bypass fitting on top. Copper rads were used for the base and other hydraulic camshaft engines(245hp 2x4 WCFB, 275hp fuelie) up to about vin #1700, The 270hp used the 3151116 aluminum up to vin #1700, along with the separate 3151016 expansion tank. This also required a '209 water pump. Rare, but repros are nice for about $175. After #1700 the aluminum rad changed to 3150916.
You also may want to check that vin derivative stamp again on the engine pad. The '61 prefixed the year in front of the vin derivative. I would expect it to be....1100207. I can't recall for sure but this may have started later in production. Where this car is likely in the first week of MY '61 production, that "1" prefix may have been delayed, maybe after vin #1700 like the other stuff I mentioned. Not sure.
There is a engine block cast date, cast embossed at the right rear block just below and to the right of the distributor on the flat surface of the block. Can you see that? I'd expect it to be late July, like a G230 or so. (e.g. July 23, 1960)
e.g. My '61 engine CU stamp pad reads 1102436 FI026CU with a cast date J200(Oct 20, 1960)
Whatever happens, I also would get that rubber hose and plastic fuel filter the heck outa' there! The original pump to glass bowl filter line was likely cut and the hose clamped on. I'd make a hard line to connect pump to carb right away. You could add a aftermarket hard line fitting fuel filter too.
Good luck with your customer, tell him it's a nice car! Love the color combo.
Rich
03-29-2014, 06:20 AM
#15
Team Owner
Yes Lord - lose the rubber fuel line. All of Rich's advise is spot on...looks like it might have replacement exhaust manifolds and is missing the fresh air hose that runs beside the generator. Also that funky red wire running from the firewall forward on the motor needs a look see. Having any kind of power wire running under that sharp ignition shielding and across a hot intake manifold without extra protection is a recipe for trouble - these cars aren't fused all that well so extra caution here.
That hole on the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold is for the hot air tube for the choke..if you go with the correct dual quads you'll want to address that too.
Killer color combo !
[rant] How can the forum be so slow at 6:00am on a Sat morning![/rant]
That hole on the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold is for the hot air tube for the choke..if you go with the correct dual quads you'll want to address that too.
Killer color combo !
[rant] How can the forum be so slow at 6:00am on a Sat morning![/rant]
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-29-2014 at 06:26 AM.
03-29-2014, 06:41 AM
#16
Team Owner
Yes Lord - lose the rubber fuel line. All of Rich's advise is spot on...looks like it might have replacement exhaust manifolds and is missing the fresh air hose that runs beside the generator. Also that funky red wire running from the firewall forward on the motor needs a look see. Having any kind of power wire running under that sharp ignition shielding and across a hot intake manifold without extra protection is a recipe for trouble - these cars aren't fused all that well so extra caution here.
That hole on the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold is for the hot air tube for the choke..if you go with the correct dual quads you'll want to address that too.
Killer color combo !
[rant] How can the forum be so slow at 6:00am on a Sat morning![/rant]
That hole on the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold is for the hot air tube for the choke..if you go with the correct dual quads you'll want to address that too.
Killer color combo !
[rant] How can the forum be so slow at 6:00am on a Sat morning![/rant]
03-29-2014, 06:42 AM
#17
Safety Car
Yes Lord - lose the rubber fuel line. All of Rich's advise is spot on...looks like it might have replacement exhaust manifolds and is missing the fresh air hose that runs beside the generator. Also that funky red wire running from the firewall forward on the motor needs a look see. Having any kind of power wire running under that sharp ignition shielding and across a hot intake manifold without extra protection is a recipe for trouble - these cars aren't fused all that well so extra caution here.
That hole on the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold is for the hot air tube for the choke..if you go with the correct dual quads you'll want to address that too.
Killer color combo !
[rant] How can the forum be so slow at 6:00am on a Sat morning![/rant]
That hole on the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold is for the hot air tube for the choke..if you go with the correct dual quads you'll want to address that too.
Killer color combo !
[rant] How can the forum be so slow at 6:00am on a Sat morning![/rant]
Good catch on that red wire. Maybe electric choke.
03-29-2014, 06:46 AM
#18
Team Owner
That would be my guess...
Oh hell - while we're at it - the interior seats are overstuffed and the turn signal bell has a huge gap in its placement - I doubt the signals are canceling at all
Even without the right carbs, and, if the frame is solid -- this car is worth $43K all day long IMO
Oh hell - while we're at it - the interior seats are overstuffed and the turn signal bell has a huge gap in its placement - I doubt the signals are canceling at all
Even without the right carbs, and, if the frame is solid -- this car is worth $43K all day long IMO
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-29-2014 at 06:49 AM.
03-29-2014, 07:57 AM
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
wow you guys are awesome!!! He does have the hardtop for it which is another big plus. Based on what you guys are saying I am going to buy it today. It would be exciting to put this car back together the way it should be. I will get some better pictures of the engine compartment today and post them. I really appreciate the input and help........expecially a 6:30 am on a Saturday!!
