6T5RUSH

Sorry to the OP on getting off topic here. I'll be sure to post up as a new topic my efforts to replace that short rubber hose.

Good idea on the coat hanger approach Frankie. Thanks! What I need to know now is the fitting size of both the outlet end of the filter and the banjo fitting that goes into the carb. Anybody know off the top what these are?

Thanks again guys!

Jim
In God We Trust!

Ironcross

thanks Bill, and the others too.....

vettepoor

I've gone through all of the spacers, gaskets, shields and everything else mentioned in this post for the percolation problem I was having on my 57 with dual quads. The BEST solution to your problem, IMHO, is to run a couple of tanks of non-ethanol gas. I finally tried this, and I have ZERO problems now with hesitation, hot starts and stumbling issues. Car runs cooler in hot, slow traffic as well.

claysmoker

Wish we could buy it here.

jimmies63

Further to the percolating problem, I found a another issue that is clearly exacerbating the fuel issue. I did get the car to temp. intake about 210 Deg. base of carb 180, just above the base, 170, main body 160, top of carb 147 or so. That was after a drive, 10 min idle and 15 min soak.

HOWEVER I found the car not idling either because of the picture below...

A is bent. Should it be? lets C (high idle adjust) miss the cam entirely. shuts off car when warm.

B. This screw, is loose (like the owner of the car). Contributes to C not letting the car idle. If I tighten it, nothing moves! How does one tighten this?

C. Between the bent tang and the loose fit, it is a lottery as to whether the idle stop will hit the cam and leave the car running.

Any thoughts on tightening up this choke assembly?

MikeM

Going from memory and a reality check, the original FI intake gasket sold by GM was the standard intake gasket set but also included two distributor gaskets instead of one.

I never saw those pieces of tin to block the heat crossover until the early '70's.

wmf62

Mike
can't argue with you as i don't know... but the 'tin' does keep the aluminum separated from the exhaust gas (and corrosion/erosion) and IF there is no direct contact MAY isolate some heat transfer.
Bill

MikeM

Agreed!

Just trying to help the guy from Michigan understand.

ryan22

Whats the Felpro intake manifold gasket set part number that has the metal block off plate ?

I called a few stores and they tell me they don't come with the plate. i asked about gaskets for a FI car and they tell me its the same gasket set, still no block off plates.

thanks-

Frankie the Fink

Zip part #M-3131
Don't waste your time chasing around your local FLAPS - they ain't got it.

MikeM

Never mind all the fancy stuff. Get a piece of stainless steel shim stock and slip it over the port in the head, under the gasket. Leave a short tab sticking out so you can pull it out if you don't like it.

Shim ='s maybe .010 thick or less.

MikeM

When Chevrolet did away with the flapper valve, it was replaced by a block off plate with a restrictor hole in it to force exhaust from the right side of the manifold to the left and out the left exhaust pipe. The left exhaust pipe was also larger in diameter than the right side.

This change occurred in 1971 (I think) and every OEM replacement gasket set had these metal plates.

Some of those gasket sets also had solid plates in them. I have a bagful of those little restrictor plates somewhere and some of them are solid. Other than that, I don't remember.

C2Racer

I am having the same problem on my 64 365 hp car. For you guys that put the Mr. Gasket or Holley heat shields on did the factory air cleaner clear the hood? Jim especially as I think yours is a 365 hp car?

Thanks
Steve

Faslane

My 64 300 does it, it runs 180 temp. I am trying the 1 inch wood spacer with 4 holes, I will post tomorrow if it helped. I mix VP C16, 3 to one in my camaro for compression reasons, may try that next, that fuel burns very cold, it was design to burn cool for all the turbo guys. If you don't want a spacer try it

TCracingCA

So without reading the whole thing, what are you guys talking about??

From speed reading just like the last 10 posts is what I usually do! I think the guys that are trying to keep it stock with clutch fans, keeping things like ramhorns, and other stock parts will fight the heat problem occasionally and some all of the time. The accepting of aftermarket types of enthusiasts, can easily win the battle over heat soak or percolation!

Heck some guys think their coffee tastes better with an ole percolating or stained ring or worse in their cups. Those same types probably think the carb will run better with some percolation!

MOXIE62

How does running non-ethanol gas solve the problem. I know it helps with corrosion damage and helps remove water but that's not the problem. If not having non-ethanol is the problem is there not an additive you can add to the gas.

Gary's '66

I like this idea! Mike, could you please explain exactly how its done and have there been any issues with leaks?

Gary

vettepoor

Ethanol has alcohol in it, and as a result has a lower boiling point than gasoline. Hence more percolation issues with some cars. My car cruised fine with ethanol fuel, but wouldn't idle or start easily when it was hot. Non-ethanol gas works for me!

MikeM

I don't know how I could explain it any better. People have been doing this for years. You just have to disable the heat riser after you block the exhaust ports in the head(s).

Frankie the Fink

There is nothing new about percolation; the WCFB carbs have anti-percolation passages designed into them. Ethanol is a problem and boilover temps are lower now. Better to deal with the issue than have to seek out non-ethanol fuel anywhere you might be or use snake-oil additives. Its usually just a matter of blocking those intake runners, wiring open the heat riser, and/or, adding some heat isolators under the carbs. I've done all of these things on both my '61 dual quad and '63 and cruise in Orlando heat - no issues....

Shooting the fuel bowls with an I/R temp gun about 20 minutes after a hot run will tell the tale... If you start getting North of about 145* or so its trouble...