cwalley

I've run into a huge problem. My 1960 2x4 carbed car will not start without priming the rear carb with raw gas. Once primed it fires right up and will restart immediately until it sits for a while and cools down. The fuel pump is new, and to address the sproblem I tore down the carbs, cleaned them thoroughly, and put in rebuild kits. Once started it runs very smooth and has quick response. When I look down the carbs, however, I do not see a strem coming from the jets when I pump the accelerator. That centers my problem on the carbs, but I do not know what to do to rememdy the problem. Any ideas?

AZDoug

Figure what you did on your rebuild that is not allowing the accelerator pump circuit to work.

That may mean taking the carbs apart, again.

Doug

Frankie the Fink

You have fuel starvation - you should get a nice shot from the squirters if you do a quick jab on the accelerator linkage so that's the first thing to address. Could be a clogged fuel filter, low pump pressure, low floats but more likely somethings gone awry in the WCFB equivalent of an accelerator pump which is the rod with the small diaphragm on it. This diaphragm must seal in its chamber to give you the pump shot...

I should also say on these carbs the float-to-float bowl clearance is tight on the carbs...you have to EXACTLY center the floats to ensure they don't hang up on the side of the bowl.

MikeM

Do you get a pump shot out of the front carb? Just curious.

Frankie the Fink

If your linkage is hooked up progressively (and most are) you have to nail the linkage all the way, sharply, to get that front carb pump shot.

MikeM

Shouldn't be a problem unless you're short legged.

cwalley

Thanks for the quick replies and suggestions. I'll try to address some of the proposed issues and ask some questions.
1. I do get a shot from the front carb - but only appears to be from the right (PS) side,
2. The fuel pump is new and all lines have been sealed with Loctite fuel sealer.
3. Do not get a shot from the rear carb.
4. Fuel filters are clean and both carbs were soaked in carb cleaner and thoroughly cleaned with apart.
5. I had this problem before I tore the carbs down. It is the reason I took them apart. It was running and starting fine, and one day just decided to give me fits.

Now some questions
1. How do I check for low floats?
2. If it is the pump plungers do I just take apart and reassemble? What do I look for when apart?
3. How can I tell if floats are "exactly" centered? I ws very careful when I reassembled the carbs.

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions.

cwalley

One more added item. I just went to the garage and checked again. The front carbs does have both jets squirting. I just didn't have my light in the right place before.

Frankie the Fink

Ok - now you made me get off my cell phone and go get my laptop.

BTW - you CAN pull the air horn (top piece) off a WCFB while it is still on the car if you are CAREFUL !!

1. Your WCFB maintenance manual describes how to set the floats - it is done with the air horn inverted and withOUT the gasket on the part. Height and using the right measuring points on the floats are critical - more critical than float drop if you have to compromise. How did you rebuild them without setting the float level ? If you don't have the manual PM me with your email and I'll send it to you (its big).

2. There are two types of plungers; if you have the 'old style' leather/rubber you are supposed to soak them in oil briefly (a minute or two is fine) and gently spread the edges for a good seal. If you have the modern type (plastic or something similar) that isn't necessary. That should do it. Some WCFBs have two holes on the exterior plunger actuator arm - make sure you use the right one for the small U-shaped clip...

3. With the air horn inverted look directly down on the housing and make sure the floats are centered between the small air horn ridges that seal the gasket around the bowls...

I have included 4 troubleshooting pages for these carbs - take particular note under the Acclerator Punp Circuit items. The pages are from an old Packard manual but apply to all WCFBs.

The last page is the float level/drop/alignment procedure. You won't have the special tool but you'll get the idea. Good Luck -- you'll get it...I haven't touched my dual quads in two years of hard driving after the rebuilds !

DansYellow66

I'm not clear as to what the problem is. In a later post you said you are getting an accelerator pump shot from the squirters. So, is the main problem that after sitting, the car won't start without priming it?
Is it that after sitting you aren't getting an accelerator pump shot from the squirter? Both are basically the same issue - gas is evaporating out of your fuel bowl after several days. Without gas in the fuel bowl the accelerator pump gets no fuel.

The fuel bowls on most of these old carbs are very well vented. I'm not sure how similar a WCFB air horn is to an AFB air horn - but on an AFB the large openings right beside the primary metering rods, lead right to the fuel bowls. They can evaporate dry in just a few days.

AZDoug

Did you blow all the circuit passages out with high pressure compressed air after soaking?

Doug

MikeM

The AFB's seem to dry up in about 10 days or so for me. WCFB's takes awhile.

If his carbs are going dry then the only thing he has to do (short term) is crank the engine for a few seconds after several days of being idle and it oughta' frie right up with a few pats of the gas pedal.

MikeM

The AFB's seem to dry up in about 10 days or so for me. WCFB's takes awhile.

If his carbs are going dry then the only thing he has to do (short term) is crank the engine for a few seconds after several days of being idle and it oughta' frie right up with a few pats of the gas pedal.

If the front carb is retaining fuel and the rear isn't, he has something else going on.

Frankie the Fink

He has something else going on. WCFBs have brass vent tubes (two on each carb) across the top of the air horn. Fuel evaporates very slowly out of these carbs.

Mine can set for two weeks and the car starts with a tap on the accelerator to set the choke and a flick of the key.

cwalley

Thanks for all the helpful replies. Glad to report that I went out this morning and it started right up. The problem was the plunger not being depressed far enough to squirt gas. The copper link between the plunger and the actuating lever was set in the wrong hole. Once found, the problem took under 10 minutes to fix. I really appreciate all the help.

Frankie the Fink

Item #2 I mentioned in post #9 above. VERY easy to get that wrong. Take a bunch of pictures when disassembling things with your cell phone - doesn't cost a thing and has saved my backside more than once !!