63 Disc brakes
#1
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63 Disc brakes
Can anyone out there tell me which master cylinder to use? I am converting my 63 Vette from drum brakes to disc. Do I also need a proportioning valve?
#2
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If you're swapping in '65/later Corvette disc brakes, just use the '65/'66 master cylinder. No need for a proportioning valve. That's taken care of by the piston size in the calipers.
#3
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As Mike stated, no proportioning valve is needed, although the 1967 system did use a "differential pressure alarm" block.
Larry
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I have a Wilwood kit on the front but using 65 vette parts on rear brakes. Will the 65/66 master cylinder still work?
#5
Team Owner
I have a non-power all drum brake '63 - I'll be following the answers
#6
Team Owner
Maybe that explains why my '61 front conversion from '73 Camaro parts works so well without the proportioning valve - never heard that explanation before
#7
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#8
Race Director
For cars with disk-drum systems, a proportioning valve is generally needed to get the best braking and to keep the rear drum from locking. I believe that the corresponding MC also has a reisdual/check valve in the drum circuit to keep some residual pressure on the brake shoes.
The best bet is generally to buy a "matched system" from one of the bigger suppliers, or use a complete system from a donor car.
Larry
#10
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Larry
EDIT: My comments are based on 1965-66 manual brake system, which used a single reservoir. The 1965-66 POWER BRAKE systems used a special dual reservoir MC. These MC are hard to get and very costly if you have to buy one. They have recently been reproduced, but the cost is still $$$$$. CSSB, Inc. website has pics of these MC, including prices. They are the company that is reproducing these MC for the hobby.
Last edited by Powershift; 04-07-2014 at 10:37 AM.
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#13
I ordered the kit for my 63 had the duel master and moved the front line up to attach to the dual master with proportioning valve .No cutting ;lines bolt on kit worked great, around 900.00
#14
Race Director
PV not needed for most disc-disc systems, only disc-drum systems.
Larry
#15
#16
Heel & Toe
My car is 64 power brake and single master cylinder and I want to change to dual master cylinder. Which is better bore size, 1" or 1 1/8", if I am driving drum/drum do I have to use the proportioning valve or metering valve, thanks ?
#17
I was going to do this 63 when I got it ,this one had power brake unit
and I swear its as good or better than the kit. I left it stock with both drums works fine .
#18
Team Owner
Reply
A lot of different directions to go with.
All depends on what brakes you plan on getting.
If you go with one of the kits with front discs and their master cylinder and if they sell you a proportioning valve, then I would say it is not sized perfectly whether that be at the line diameters, or the piston diameters, the MC size, etc. then the proportioning valve would be an essential (and one that is adjustable, and we are not talking about the brake bias switch that is by uneducated sometimes called a Proportioning valve.
If you go with a specific year and swap all four corners, then depending on what year a proportioning valve would not be needed to hang stock calipers and the matching year MC, if the line to the rear is the same diameter. Which would be the normal recommendation!
If you move up to the 1967 and I think mid 66 and up, then I believe that you had better run a proportioning valve if you don't plan to run a new diameter line to the back.
The MC piston diameter will effect the pedal pressures (more or less leverage essentially) and if assembling it yourself with different year components, then you want to check your engineering and make sure you have a realistic pedal pressure, pedal travel, pad engagement etc... etc..
If you go with the Wilwoods or Brembos or whatever and such, then I don't suggest mixing there stuff with other stuff, unless they are indicating that it is compatible and even then I would only do their entire 4 corner set ups! Would be my recommendation. This reasoning would evolve into an entire engineering discussion that would cause the Vendor to have the thread locked, so I will just recommend an entire system (all 4 corners) and not to match it with drums or stock calipers etc.. or some other brands
And so on!
All depends on what brakes you plan on getting.
If you go with one of the kits with front discs and their master cylinder and if they sell you a proportioning valve, then I would say it is not sized perfectly whether that be at the line diameters, or the piston diameters, the MC size, etc. then the proportioning valve would be an essential (and one that is adjustable, and we are not talking about the brake bias switch that is by uneducated sometimes called a Proportioning valve.
If you go with a specific year and swap all four corners, then depending on what year a proportioning valve would not be needed to hang stock calipers and the matching year MC, if the line to the rear is the same diameter. Which would be the normal recommendation!
If you move up to the 1967 and I think mid 66 and up, then I believe that you had better run a proportioning valve if you don't plan to run a new diameter line to the back.
The MC piston diameter will effect the pedal pressures (more or less leverage essentially) and if assembling it yourself with different year components, then you want to check your engineering and make sure you have a realistic pedal pressure, pedal travel, pad engagement etc... etc..
If you go with the Wilwoods or Brembos or whatever and such, then I don't suggest mixing there stuff with other stuff, unless they are indicating that it is compatible and even then I would only do their entire 4 corner set ups! Would be my recommendation. This reasoning would evolve into an entire engineering discussion that would cause the Vendor to have the thread locked, so I will just recommend an entire system (all 4 corners) and not to match it with drums or stock calipers etc.. or some other brands
And so on!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 08-27-2014 at 04:58 PM.
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You don't need ANY new/additional valving of any kind (proportioning or metering) to just add a dual master cylinder. What you DO need is a dual master cylinder for MANUAL DRUM BRAKES, with Residual Pressure Valves in each outlet (most are disc/drum, and you don't want one of those).
#20
Team Owner
Yes hot rod guys are big on Residual Pressure Valves but those don't come in most generic kit or when buying stock Corvette components. Those are really good when you are like mounting an MC low in a chassis. They usually come in drum pressures or disc pressure! But a proportioning valve can still be good for tuning to the back if you don't run some type of line pressure limiter or restricter.